\u00a0<\/p>\n
Gentlemen,<\/p>\n
I’m a big fan of the site and there is certainly a wealth of valuable
\ninformation here…<\/p>\nI only have a PC 7424XP, and looking to get as much correction as possible
\nwith at most two steps (compound->polish).<\/p>\nThe How-To \/ Review specifically recommends Meg’s 105 to be used with the
\nSurBuf pads… What if I already have Menzerna SIP & 106FA? I don’t see why
\nthere would be an issue with this but thought I’d ask.<\/p>\nI already have a variety of LC pads (6″ orange, white, blue, black; 4″
\norange, and more).<\/p>\nFor my compounding step, should I use some LC PFW or LC Yellow\/OJ or Surbuf?<\/p>\n
Does a smaller pad = more effective cut or simply better for maneuverability
\nin tight spaces?<\/p>\nShould I keep the harmonic balancer weight attached to the PC regardless of
\nthe size pad I’m using?<\/p>\nI too am pretty confused as to generally how many pads I need to cover a
\nfull vehicle and also exactly both HOW to go about cleaning them while using
\nand in preparation for storage.<\/p>\nI realize there are many questions here but these are ones I’ve had for a
\nwhile and I’m sure I’m not the only one.<\/p>\nThanks in advance!!!<\/p>\n
-Matt S from PA<\/p><\/blockquote>\n
Matt! Thanks for the complements, now lets get you some answers to your questions………I hope! \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n
A PC+105<\/a> and surbuf will correct paint very nicely. The technique is more important than the product in this case, actually in detailing the technique is everything.<\/p>\n
I’m going to steal the words from Bryan Burnworth of Peach\u00a0State Detailing, he has become one of\u00a0the masters of this process.<\/p>\n
“This process can be messy.<\/p>\n
7″ surbuf pad. (my insertion…..You can use smaller pads, but it might take an extra pass or two…)
\n6” BP
\nPC or XPPC
\nStraight IPA<\/p>\n1. Do not prime the surbuf<\/a> pad.
\n2. Apply 4 “larger then pea sized” dots of M105 to the pad.
\n3. Work the polish into an 12×12″ area without turning on your PC.
\n4. Spritz the surface with water.
\n5. As in step 3, again work the polish around without turning on your PC, you are looking for a milky consistency.
\n6. Turn on PC and work the polish till it appears to dry.
\n7. Spritz more water onto the suface and continue to polish. What this does is bring the polish out of the pad and back to the surface.
\n8. I have found that you will need IPA sprayed onto your MF to remove the M105<\/a> from the surface.
\n9. Inspect and repeat if needed.<\/p>\nNotes:
\nIf you find that one time is not enough to remove defects, you can always repeat #7 and keep on polishing.<\/p>\nAfter 2-3 sections, you will need to clean the pad by brushing off the pad and blowing out the excess polish with compressed air. After the pad becomes overly saturated w\/ polish clean with warm water and some APC. Spin to dry. The pad does not have to be totally dry to use it again.<\/p>\n
I have removed severe defects and 2000 grit wetsanding marks with this method.<\/p>\n
Depending on the hardness of the clear, you “might” be able to go right to M205 with a\u00a0black finishing pad”<\/p>\n
Here are the Cliffs Notes to your other questions!<\/strong><\/p>\n
No need to change the balancer IME.<\/p>\n
Since 105<\/a> is a NON DIMINISHING abrasive it works best, the others you have break down over time and start to “polish” out.<\/p>\n