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Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze (KSG) Guide and Review

by

Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze (KSG) has been a favorite product of mine for quite some time now.  With so many waxes and sealants on the market these days, it’s tough to pull the trigger on a single product and hope that it does all you expect of it.  KSG eliminates the thinking process and provides a great look, long-lasting protection, and worry-free application process.  It gives a nice coat of shiny and smooth surface to any paint color, lasts for months on a single application and is very easy to use, leaving no streaks, haze or residue.  It’s also safe to use on everything from glass, to rubber, trim, headlights, etc., making it one of the best and most versatile sealants out there.

My favorite characteristic of KSG is the durability.  I’ve been using KSG through Chicago winters for 3-4 years now on my own and my clients’ vehicles, and have been more than pleased that 2-3 layers of KSG easily last through 3-4 months of the harsh weather.  Second favorite quality of KSG is the slickness and overall protection it provides.  Water spots rarely occur and contaminants like bugs, bird feces and tar are much easier to wipe off after an application of KSG.  This way paint is protected not only from the harmful spotting and etching the above mentioned contamination causes, but also by allowing you to clean that contamination with less pressure, leaving little to no swirl marks in the paint.  In this article, I’ll go through the brief process of prepping the paint for application, applying the product, removing the product, and maintaining the paint after application.

Before even picking up the bottle of KSG, you must ensure the paint is clean and properly prepped for sealing.  Just as you would prepare paint for polishing, you need to ensure proper measures are taken for the sealant to be applied and ensure it’ll provide maximum results.  While KSG can be used on any freshly washed paint, it’s highly recommended to have a professional detail performed on the vehicle beforehand.  This means a proper full detail including a thorough wash, decontamination via clay bar, paint polishing, etc.  Assuming the vehicle has been detailed as such recently, the vehicle will simply need a thorough wash, preferably removing any previous waxes, sealants and polishing oils.  I always recommend completely cleaning the paint before application.  However, I have yet to experience bonding or durability issues with KSG applied over other sealants or immediately after polishing, so take it for what it’s worth.

Once the vehicle is washed and paint is completely clean, a great prep step for KSG is what is usually referred to KSG’s twin, Klasse All-In-One (KAIO).  KAIO is a non-abrasive chemical cleaner/polish that works great at removing very light swirl marks, old wax, oxidation, etc.  It also leaves a light protection layer, making it the perfect prep step for KSG application!  While KSG can be used without a KAIO application, it is highly recommended to ensure proper application and long lasting protection.

Onto the process:

While frequenting many online forums I come across numerous complaints about KSG.  I can safely say that 99% of those complaints are about the difficulty with removing the product after application.  Klasse recommends applying KSG with the wipe-on-wipe-off (WOWO) method, but I am recommending otherwise.  Yes you should always initially follow all manufacturers’ instructions and see how it works.  I started using KSG over 5 years ago and I followed their instructions.  Most of the time it worked well, however sometimes if I applied a little too much product, it would keep hazing and be very tough to remove.  This led me to removing it with quick detailer sprays, which led me to form my own method of using KSG.  Hopefully this helps those having trouble with it or provides an easier method of application and removal for the rest of you.  Before we go any further, here are the necessary tools and products for KSG application:

How it’s done:

So you’re done prepping the paint and ready for a couple coats of KSG.  Here are illustrated steps to achieve a well protected, glossy finish with no streaking or residue left over.

First, you want to apply a small amount of KSG to the microfiber applicator pad…

Second, you will fold the applicator pad in both directions in order to evenly distribute the product over the pad surface.  This will allow for an easy and uniform application of the sealant.

Now you will spread the sealant onto the panel.  With the amount of product shown above, you can easily cover the top part of the trunk lid on a car.  However, start with smaller amounts and see how large of an area you can cover.  Your goal is to cover the trunk area of a regular sedan, or less, and apply as little product as possible.  The larger the area you end up covering with the amount of product you applied to the pad, the more chance you have of uneven application and it being too much in some places and too little in others.  Thus you want to stick to smaller sections and I have found that a panel size roughly that of a trunk lid or less works great for me.  To apply, use very little pressure and swipe the applicator pad slowly across the surface you will be sealing.  I generally use either a diagonal line or “S” shapes to simply spread out product more evenly on the section being sealed.  Once that’s done, you simply use left to right motions to evenly cover the entire section with the sealant.

Keep working around the entire car applying sealant to sections of similar size to the above.  Once done, you must wait at least 15-20 minutes for the sealant to cure and haze.  I always try to let it sit on the paint for an hour or so, but 15-20 minutes is enough time from my experience.  The good thing is, by the time you get to the last section on the car and apply the sealant, you have already “waited” about 10 minutes or more for the first section to cure.  If you’re in no rush to finish and can wait 30-60 minutes I would highly recommend doing so.  Some necessary tools for waiting are a nice comfy beach chair, bench to relax your legs and a nice cold beverage.

Ok ok, back to reality :).  What you SHOULD be doing while waiting is preparing for the next step.  This involves separating your towels into “dry” towels and “damp” towels.  You will need about twice as many “dry” towels as you will “damp”, so plan to divide accordingly.  To put it simply, basically grab 2-3 towels and set them aside into a “damp” pile, and take the other 5-6 to put in the “dry” pile.  This way you have two piles of towels instead of one.  Not really necessary, but helps later on in the process.

Once you spend the 30-60 minutes separating the towels, pleading with KSG to hurry up, and drinking a cold one, you’re ready to move on to removing the sealant.

To do so, simply grab a “damp” towel and M34.  Fold the towel in half twice, as shown in the photos below, then liberally spray the M34 onto the towel ensuring it’s completely damp on both sides.  The towel shouldn’t be dripping wet, but it also should get more than a few mists of the M34 QD.

Next you will simply wipe the paint with the “damp” towel to remove the residue that has dried up.  You want to work in sections as big as or smaller than those during the application process.  Reason being is that if you wipe off a large enough section, where you started might start drying up and will need to be wiped again with the “damp” towel.  As always, use up and down or left and right motions with the towel.  I prefer to go “against the grain” or in this case, against the strokes used with the applicator pad.

Now you want to grab a “dry” towel and simply proceed to wipe off the QD and sealant residue on the section you just wiped with the “damp” towel.  You do this as you would while using any QD to wipe down a panel, meaning very light hand pressure and wipe slowly until it’s completely dry.  I tend to flip and fold the dry towels a lot while drying in order to keep using a portion of the towel that’s more dry and clean than the one I just used.  There should be absolutely no residue or streaking, just glossy and protected paint.

As with the application process, simply move on to the next section following the steps above, first “damp” towel, then “dry” towel.  You want to have extra towels in each pile because the “damp” towel will become too damp and leave behind too much QD to clean up, while the dry towel also becomes damper and can’t wipe the QD off the paint too well.  I switch my “dry” towels to “damp” towels as they start leaving light streaking from being too damp.  This noticeably lowers the amount of towels necessary to seal the entire car.

Well that about covers it.  The car should now be completely protected and have no streaks or hazing left over.  Since KSG dries extremely clear it’s easy to miss a spot when removing the residue with a “damp” then “dry” towel, so inspect the paint once everything is done and go over any missed spots.  I almost always apply two or more coats of any sealant, so if you’d like to do the same simply start over with the application and removal process from the beginning.

Hope this helps out a few struggling with KSG and as always thanks for reading!

Ivan Rajic Lustr Deatil
Ivan Rajic
LUSTR Auto Detail
341 Lively Boulevard
Elk Grove Village, IL 60007
LustrDetail.com
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122 comments on Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze (KSG) Guide and Review

  1. Very nice article and thorough review Ivan! Thanks for sharing your extensive experience with the product with everybody…

    • john baker says:

      hi todd just read ivans article with the klasse sealeant-i have some red lc low profile pads that i use with the hand held polishin pal. would that be ok to use instead of a microfiber pad

  2. Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

    Thanks Todd!

    John,

    I just replied to you via email, so I’ll just paste the exact same reply here…

    I think they should be fine as they’re not really abrasive and I’ve seen quite a few detailers using them. However, I have never liked using foam when applying products like sealants or waxes, unless it’s a 5.5″ blue foam pad used via PC to apply Blackfire Wet Diamond.

    Also, I never liked to apply KSG with a machine as I felt it didn’t work well for me, so take that for what it’s worth.

    Hope that helps!

  3. Francisco says:

    Great review…. congratulations…
    I have a question..
    Klasse SG: How is its texture? I bought a bottle and it is completely liquid, like water, but I saw a video – your pics using it and its texture its was like creamy or like a shampoo, it is correct? or maybe the product are bad? what do you think?
    Thanks

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      Francisco,

      You’re being a tricked a bit by my photos. I tried to capture the photo with KSG still on the pad to show about how much should be applied to the pad. However, if you look closely at the 4th photo of the article, you’ll notice how some of it is still sitting on the surface of the pad, while the rest has been absorbed into the pad.

      In other words, it is supposed to be completely liquid and not creamy at all, so I don’t think you should be worried about yours.

      Thanks,
      Ivan

  4. Justin says:

    Excellent write-up Ivan.

    I also notice that KAIO and KSG have its own very distinct appearance. Its not like any other product I know.

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      Thank you Justin! I am a big fan of the “candy coating” look that KSG leaves on almost every type/color of paint. Different from a carnauba look, but definitely good looking.

  5. papapalo says:

    Great review!! It is what I was looking for :). One question: On your post you use Meguiars M34 but… Is it absolutely necessary?? I mean using a quik detailer, I’ve read some posts where people use Klasse SG itself diluted with water in order to remove it easier.

    Anyway, great post and great info Thanks!!

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      Thanks! M34 is something I started using a while back with the KSG application method above, so it just kind of stuck. It’s not absolutely necessary, or even necessary, as other QD sprays should work just as well. However, there should be no wax in the QD used to remove KSG residue.

      As for the KSG diluted with water… I’ve read about it and just recently started experimenting with it. I can only assume that it’ll work well, but honestly haven’t tested it enough to say for sure. I can tell you this though, you will not make any horrible mistakes by using the KSG/water mixture instead of M34 to remove the residue. Just remember that with KSG a little always goes a long way, even with the KSG/water.

      Thanks again,
      Ivan

  6. Bill Swantner says:

    Hey man, I appreciate the write up. I was in the process of cleaning up my car and decided to try your method of working with KSG. One thing I noticed in the past when working with KSG and I’d like to hear your opinion: When I’ve used KSG in hot south Texas weather, KSG was a “bear” to get off. When I applied KSG this past winter on much cooler surfaces, it was a whole lot easier to simply wipe off. Have you noticed that KSG is temperature sensitive?

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      Thanks Bill.

      I can’t say I’ve noticed much of a difference as I always try and apply KSG (and do detailing work in general) in 60-80 degree temperatures inside the garage. There have been times where I applied it in hotter weather, 85-90 degrees or more, and the only thing I noticed was that it dried quicker, as expected. There were no issues with removal though.

      Was it hard for you to remove even after trying the method mentioned here?

    • jim says:

      If you have already used a wax, can you wasdh car, then put Klasse on your car? Most important I read a detailers page where he said he used Klasse first and then waxed the car with P21S concours carnabua wax, is that possible or ok?? Please respond, thank you

      • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

        Jim,

        As a general rule, you don’t want to apply a sealant over a wax. I say general as you might not have issues with a lot of combos out there when you do in fact top a wax with a sealant, but I would steer clear.

        I always apply the sealant first before applying a carnauba wax on top. My choice combo is usually KSG then P21S Concours Carnauba Wax. I think together they look great and durability is very good as well.

        To answer your question…

        If you have already waxed a car, I would suggest doing a thorough wash with a high concentration of wax removing shampoo (maybe 2-3oz. of something like Chemical Guys Citrus Wash per 1 gallon of water) before applying the sealant. A couple washes might be necessary to fully strip the wax, especially if it was recently applied.

        If I was in your situation I’d probably do a weekly wash 2-3 times with the shampoo as described above instead of doing it all in a day or two. This way you didn’t waste the wax already applied but at the same time you get the KSG on the paint within a few weeks, and now you can top that off with P21S.

        Hope that helps!
        Ivan

  7. Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

    Thanks Bill.

    I can’t say I’ve noticed much of a difference as I always try and apply KSG (and do detailing work in general) in 60-75 degree temperatures inside the garage. There have been times where I applied it in hotter weather, 85-90 degrees or more, and the only thing I noticed was that it dried quicker, as expected. There were no issues with removal though.

    Was it hard for you to remove even after trying the method mentioned here?

  8. Bill Swantner says:

    Dude, it worked great. I had given up on KSG but now I appreciate what it can do. Thanks-

  9. David says:

    Hello Ivan,

    Saw a similar article you posted on another forum in April 2010 (Chicago Z)
    In that posting you show a picture of the same materials used here at the top of the posting, and on the M34, there’s watermark stating to dilute it with a 1:1 ratio of water.
    Would you still suggest doing the same ratio now or would using M34 at full strength be necessary to work effectively on the damp microfibers?

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      Hi David,

      Good eye! This is basically a recreation of that previous article, just with a bit extra info and some better photos.

      As for M34… I used the 1:1 ratio to simply try it out a while back and can safely say it works just as well as full strength. I usually use it at full strength as I feel it leaves a surface that’s a bit more slick, but as I said, either way works just fine at removing the residue. Plus that slickness from the QD fades quickly, making a 1:1 ratio much more economical.

      Hope that helps!

      Thanks,
      Ivan

  10. Jordan says:

    Great review! I recently bought a bottle of this stuff and I love the results. Now I’m just working on perfecting my technique. I applied one coat right when this heat wave struck. Great timing, I know. So now that it’s cooled off a bit I am going back for a second coat but I had a quick question first.

    My car had a very fine layer of dust on it (it has hardly been driven sine the first coat of sealant) so I took quick detailer and wiped it down with a microfiber towel so it’s nice and smooth. The spray detailer I used has no wax of any kind in it, so I believe these is no residue left behind. Meguire’s Showtime Detailer, I believe it is. Would it be ok to apply a second coat now? Or is a washing (with water) necessary for the sealant to bond correctly?

    My second, unrelated question is this: how do you know your method of wiping off with instant detailer doesn’t remove the sealant you just put down? I’m not questioning your method, I think your method is great. The thought just crossed my mind.

    Thanks!

    Jordan

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      Jordan,

      Good questions.

      First off, I would highly advise with wiping off dust using a quick detailers. It’s probably one of the easiest but well disguised ways swirls make their way into your paintwork. I always recommend clients to either wash the car or leave it alone, no wiping, dusting, etc. That said, I would probably say you should give it a nice thorough wash, then apply the second coat of KSG. Washing with water isn’t really to allow the sealant to bond better/correctly, rather to ensure you have a nice and clean surface to protect.

      Second question… I know by how I see the water beading during following washes of the vehicle. I know how the water beading and sheeting looks like before and after a sealant application, so it’s not too hard to tell that protection is still there. Also, once the sealant is on the paint and cures, you’re simply removing the dried up residue from the top. Theoretically speaking, I am probably removing say 10% of the bonded sealant as opposed to wiping the residue off without quick detailer, but it definitely doesn’t remove the sealant as a whole.

      Hope that makes sense :).

      Thanks,
      Ivan

  11. Ivan says:

    I was getting ready to order KSG and find your technique fasinating. The question I have is, how does KSG compare the Blackfire Wet Diamond which I’ve been using? It’s really easy on and off but wanted to see if KSG has different properties and last longer.
    Thanks
    Jeff

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      Thanks Ivan,

      To answer your question… I too use both KSG and BFWD on different occasions. Usually I’ll use KSG when applying a couple coats and topping off with a wax, but due to its ease of use and good overall quality I use BFWD more often on jobs where the client is picking up same day.

      In all honesty, I haven’t been able to test the durability of BFWD as thoroughly as I would like to, but I’m currently planning on doing some sealant and wax testing on my personal car with this upcoming winter, so I should have a better answer for you then.

      From what I do know and from what I’ve heard from trusted sources in the detailing world, BFWD has pretty good durability and the ease of use is a huge plus. Other differences to note… BFWD feels a bit slicker than KSG right off the bad (BFWD feels more like a paste carnauba wax as opposed to a sealant) but the initial slickness fades faster than the initial KSG slickness. Not that the protection disappears, it just doesn’t feel as slick as it first did after a few washes. KSG on the other hand is more consistent throughout its protection cycle.

      Well I hope I at least partly answered your question. My advice would be to pick up both if you’re able and simply compare. As a detailer I get to try and compare many products, but I still come across many instances where no matter how good or bad a product is described online and no matter how reliable the source, I have to spend the $$ just so I know for myself. The fun part is when I actually find out the opposite is true from what’s being said online (whether good or bad) and it’s definitely good to learn on your own because that’s what matters most, how a certain product(s) fit into YOUR detailing arsenal.

      Thanks again and I hope that helps,
      Ivan

  12. Don says:

    I used Klasse AIO and SG a few years ago and always had problems with streaks when removing the SG. After trying several other product over the last couple of years, including Griots and Eagle One, I decided to give Klasse another try.
    I followed your method using Meguiars 34 when removing the SG and after two coats, 24 hours apart, my Mercedes E350 looks great.
    Thanks for the detailed instructions.

  13. Victor Orlandi says:

    Great discription on how to use Klasse products. I live in the Milwaukee area, and it lasted 2 & 1/2 years, before I repeated it. Water beading is not great, but you remember Rain Dance. It beads like hell, but after a car washes, 2 months, it doesn’t bead well. It’s simply a chemical they add fto make it bead.o beading itself is not an indicator of how good the polish is. Look at the gloss. Vivtor Orlandi, Wisconsin

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      Thanks Victor. I usually test the product durability by seeing not how much is beads rather how it beads differently from when the paint is stripped of all protection. Sometimes water will sheet off nicely and sometimes it’ll bead up, but if it differs quite a bit from stripped paint it’s a good indication that the sealant is still doing it’s job.

  14. Scott says:

    Hi, after being very frustrated with using klasse a few times using the wowo method (invariably some residue would be missed and then i would have to rub so hard my arm ached), I tried this method yesterday on my car and it works like magic!! However, after doing so, I realized there may be a problem when trying to put multiple layers of klasse or topping off with a carnauba wax. There is probably some wax or other stuff in the qd that would be left on the car (I used detailer’s pro rinseless mixed for qd rather than the meg 34) on top of the layer of klasse hgs. Won’t that leftover part make it difficult for future layers of klasse and/or carnauba to bond with the layer of klasse underneath? Thanks for any insight.

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      Thanks Scott, very happy it helped you out! As for your qd, I would simply try and use something that has little to no wax in it, so even if it is there you can wash it off with a couple washes and go ahead with another coat of KSG.

      In my experience I never experienced any bonding issues with most waxes and sealants… many times I’ve applied a coat or two of KSG, then a coat of P21S, and after only a few washes another coat of KSG (even though I didn’t strip P21S, just did a regular wash) without seeing any ill effects. I’ve mostly seen bonding issues with Zymol waxes and cleaner waxes being applied on top of some sealants or other carnauba waxes. Otherwise it was smooth sailing, usually with KSG and P21S products.

      As always I’d recommend trying it out on a small section, maybe half the hood, and see if there are any issues. I doubt you’ll encounter any issues.

  15. Scott says:

    Thanks Ivan for your prompt and useful response. Great to hear from your experience with Klasse. Now I have confidence to use it for the upcoming Canadian winter and have it’s protection last right through it. I’m planning on putting on another couple of coats of Klasse on and top it off with DP maxwax. Should make my car look great!!

  16. Kelvin says:

    Ivan,
    great product review and methodology of application and removal. I would like to apply KSG to my windows, trim, and headlights. Do you recommend the same method when removing the product (using QD) for windows?

    thanks in advance for your response…

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      Thansk Kelvin,

      The procedure should be exactly the same. I have applied it many times on headlights.

      As for the glass, I never trusted anything on windows and windshield due to the moving rubber/seals over the glass. It would probably be just fine, but I have seen another sealant (can’t remember which) years ago streak on the windshield, so I always stayed away.

      Hope that helps bud.

      Ivan

  17. Brian says:

    Hey Ivan!

    Great review. I’ve tried your style on sealing my own Toyota Corolla and the results are amazing! I think it’s the soft paint of the Toyota that causes it to remain tougher to bring out mirror-like finish I would have wanted. I just wanted to know if you’ve tried applying Chemical Guys’ pro-detailer after the KSG and if it would strip off the sealant at all. Thanks again for the wonderful review.

  18. Joe says:

    Hi Ivan,
    Thanks for the info. My wife has a PT CRUISER with the woody trim, I know it is plastic. Living in Arizona the UV damage is great. Would this process protect the wood panels? Any help would be great.
    THANKS

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      Joe,

      I would imagine it would definitely help as KSG can be used on pretty much anything, but since I never tried it I honestly can’t say for sure. Hopefully one of the other guys here has some experience and can contribute.

      Ivan

  19. sm says:

    When I using Carlack twins my routine are: First use AIO (wait 30min) then spread LLS top of it and buff off. It works nice if remember put thin layers. Otherwise… really hard to buff off. Moist can be also problem if using products outside.

  20. Tim says:

    Ivan:

    Any idea as to how Mother’s California Gold Showtime Instant Detailer would work as a spritzer for the application pad and dampened micro fiber towels for removing the sealant residue?
    I just bought the Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze from autogeeks and picked up the Mother’s since they also recommend using a QD spritzer.

    Thanks for your hrlp!

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      Hi Tim,

      I would only be speculating as I haven’t used the Mother’s QD as a spritzer/remover of KSG, however if it has no waxes in it I would assume it would work the same or similar to Meguiar’s #34 Final Inspection. Since you already have both the KSG and Mother’s QD, I would simply give it a shot and see how the Mother’s QD performs. There’s really no way you can damage the paint. Worst case you’ll need to remove the KSG/Mother’s QD mixture with a wax remover if it causes bonding issues, but I can almost bet that it will work just fine.

      Either way I suggest you try it on a small section, maybe a mirror or a lower portion of the bumper and see what happens. If it works fine, try a larger section, like the fender, and test it there as well. If it works fine on both you should be good to go for the rest of the car.

      Hope that helps bud!

      Thanks,
      Ivan

  21. Todd says:

    Hi Ivan,
    Would you use this on a clear bra? What about application with a buffer like the PC? Thanks for any advice.

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      Hi Todd,

      KSG should be fine on a clear bra as it is very easy to apply and shouldn’t leave any residue as you’d see with carnauba waxes. As for using it with a PC, I really didn’t like it when I tried it LONG ago, however now that you mention it I think I might try it again very soon just to experiment. By hand, as described above, it’s extremely easy to apply and control how much you apply, so I always preferred that method.

      If you do try it definitely let us know how it goes.

      Happy Holidays bud,
      Ivan

  22. sm says:

    What are shelf life of product?

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      I really haven’t tested the shelf life as I always use it up within 1-1.5 years, but I’ve had a bottle for up to 2-2.5 years before and saw no change in the product. I do however shake my products (yes ALL my products) every couple weeks in order to mix everything thoroughly.

      Hope that helps!

      Ivan

  23. Jon says:

    Ivan,

    This is a great write-up of a product I heard about loooong before I got the detailing bug and discovered many of the ‘newer’ sealants (e.g BFWD and others).

    Regarding the ‘damp’ MF you use to wipe the KSG, is this a recommended practice for the KSG only, or could/should it apply to removal of other sealants and perhaps glazes?

    Also, not reason why I cannot use Meg’s Last Touch (either full or cut 1:1) instead of Final Inspection, right?

    Thank you,

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      Thanks Jon.

      I wish I could be of more help with your questions, but I really don’t know until I go try it, which is also something you can do. I’ve heard of people removing wax/sealant residue with damp towels (dampened with different products not necessarily what I use) but I really never tried it on anything but KSG.

      Also, I never used Meg’s Last Touch instead of Final Inspection but I too don’t see any reason why it wouldn’t work. Let us know how it works if/when you do decided to try it out.

      • Jon says:

        Thanks, Ivan. Will do with the Last Touch, becuase I have a boat load of it, chosen over Final Inspection for no great reason.

        Regards -

  24. Dan says:

    Hi Ivan,

    If I plan to apply multiple coats of KSG, how long should wait between applications. Also, if I plan to top off with P21S Concours Wax- how much time should I wait after the last application of KSG before applying wax. Thanks in advance for your help.

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      Hi Dan,

      You should probably listen to what the instructions say, then feel free to experiment from there. Personally I’ve always applied a 2nd coat of KSG either the next day, after letting the car sit in the garage and lightly wiping off any dust that may have collected, OR in a few days after the next wash. Same with the P21S in that I’ll usually wait until my next wash, which usually happens within a week or so, then apply the wax.

      I can’t remember exactly what Klasse calls for as far as wait time between coats, but I believe it was either 8, 10 or 12 hours, maybe 24. I’m at home typing now and wish I had a bottle with me, but it will be easy to find out for you :).

      Hope that helps bud, thanks for reading!

  25. Daniel says:

    Hi Ivan,

    Get review on the product and the process for application. On the back of reading this I’ve purchased a gallon (US) of ‘final inspect’ and ‘Car lack 68’ apparently the same as Klasse SG?!
    Just one question. The vehicles I’m going to be using this on have coloured coded bumpers. The manufactures description suggests not using this on any type of plastics. I’m assuming this means bare plastics? Not painted?

    Your advise or experience is greatly welcome.
    Regards, Daniel

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      Thanks Daniel. Yes I too would assume bare plastics are what they’re referring to, not painted bumpers. I know you can definitely seal any painted surface with Klasse SG and even many other surfaces if you’d like to experiment with it.

      However, I’m really not familiar with the Car Lack product so I’m not sure how similar it is to KSG.

      Either way, you should definitely be able to use it on any painted surface, whether it’s plastic or metal.

      Hope that helps!

      • Daniel says:

        Thanks Ivan.

        I tried it on the painted plastic and it worked great. I believe Car-lack is similar/same product as KSG ( that is the calm from where i brought it). It looks exactly the same as the photos of the KSG on the applicator pad you posted, its made in Germany and is an acrylic based sealant. Its works great with the ‘final Inspect’ very easy to remove after an hour or so. Thanks for the tip with the Final Inspect as it’s a great product.

        Would you recommend using this product (Car-Lack) on alloy wheels?

        Regards, Daniel

        • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

          Glad it worked well for you Daniel.

          I would definitely recommend using KSG on wheels, so if that product is the same or similar I’d probably say you won’t hurt anything. I’ve had great results using KSG on wheels and even though it doesn’t last as long as it does on paint, it still protects the wheels very well for at least a few weeks and makes them very easy to clean.

          • Chris says:

            Hey Ivan,
            Been using both Klasse products for many years and love them. Any thoughts on applying AIO and SG with a PC 7424XP? I now have trouble with tendinitis in my elbows, so hand application and removal is difficult for me.
            Thanks!

  26. Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

    Hi Chris,

    Good to hear you’ve been enjoying the Klasse “Twins” for a while as I have.

    To answer your question… Unless I’m touching up some areas by hand, I have always used Klasse AIO with a machine, usually the Porter Cable and a light polishing/finishing pad. The Sealant Glaze however I never got into machine application. Reason being it is extremely easy to apply by hand as it’s completely fluid and spreads easily, but also because I never liked applying or removing it with machine. Some sealants, like the Blackfire Wet Diamond, I’ll apply with the Porter Cable and a blue Lake Country pad, but with KSG I find it’s different and didn’t like applying it with the machine.

    You obviously have a problem with the elbows so I would say simply try it on a trunk lid or similar and see how it goes. I don’t see why you wouldn’t be able to apply it quickly with machine, however, if you plan to let it cure for a while then remove, I don’t know if removal by machine will be too effective. I’ll have to try both once I find some free time and I’ll surely report any findings to you here, but in the meantime I’d say just give it a shot at a slow speed on the PCXP and see how it goes. For removal, I’d look for some good quality microfiber bonnets to put over a pad on the PC and go from there.

    Hope that helps!

  27. Brian says:

    Hi Ivan,

    just a question regarding the application of Klasse AIO and sealant glaze. Do you wait a certain time after applying the Klasse AIO before applying the sealant glaze to allow for bonding or do you go straight to the sealant glaze after an application of Klasse AIO?

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      Hi Brian,

      I don’t usually use the two together because I typically apply the sealant glaze after a polishing detail, but when I do use both I apply the sealant glaze after about 30 minutes or so following the AIO application.

      I can’t even remember off the top of my head what the instructions call for, but I never had an issue with immediate application of KSG following AIO.

  28. Jon says:

    Ivan,

    I plan to take a stab at using this within the next few weeks (just ordered some from DI).

    If and when the time comes, will Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Clear at the wax/sealant stripping diluton (2oz / gallon of water) using the two bucket washing method completely remove the KHGSG?

    Thank you,

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      Hi Jon,

      Glad you’re giving KSG a shot. I’m sure you’ll like it.

      I have never really tried to remove KSG in particular with CG Citrus Wash and Clear so I couldn’t say a certain yes or no, but I have seen it take off quite a bit of wax before so it’s definitely possible. If you definitely must remove it, I would probably do a couple washes just to ensure it’s off, but obviously see how it feels/looks after one wash and go from there.

      Let us know how it goes when the time comes.

  29. Peter Leoni says:

    Hello Ivan, wow what a great instruction article. I have been using KSG for several years now and have never really enjoyed removing it until I tried your method the other day. So so easy that I am looking forward to applying several coats as soon as the Final Inspect QD arrives later this week. Your instructions should come standard with every bottle of Klasse.
    Thanks a ton,
    Pete

  30. Vince says:

    Ivan,

    I have read the KSG needs to cure 8-12 hours between coats, or before applying the carunba wax. What is your method for second and third coating of the KSG. Thanks.

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      Vince, I typically just wait a week or two until my car is again due for a wash before applying either a 2nd coat of KSG or a coat of wax over it. This way I know it’s had ample time to cure and it allows me to thoroughly wash the car before reapplying. I have also many times done the 2nd coat or wax a day after applying the first, but without driving the car and opening the garage much so no dust gets in.

      In short, I really never had an issue with application between coats, whether it was 6-8hrs later or a few weeks.

  31. Vince says:

    Well I was hoping to do successive coats as I do not have garage space available to protect the car for any length of time. Will successive coats work without a prolonged wait, say a wait of 1 hour? Thanks for your reply!

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      I doubt you’ll have any issues if you wait an hour or so, but obviously it’s not ideal as Klasse wants you to wait a bit longer. I wouldn’t worry about it too much in terms of ruining the first coat with a 2nd coat soon after, more so that the cure time isn’t as long as it should be and you might not get a full 2 coats in a sense. Hope that helps.

  32. Vince says:

    Ivan, thank you. Your replys have been very helpful.

  33. Jack says:

    Hi Ivan, I already have a bottle of Mothers Show Time Instant Detailer that I use for claying the car. Can I use that instead of the Meguiar’s 34?

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      Hi Jack,

      I’m not sure on what the Mother’s detailer has in it as far as wax, etc., so I’m really not sure how it would work. From my experience, once the KSG cures a bit, any sort of detailer is fine for removing the residue, but unfortunately I haven’t tried the Mother’s with it. I would say try it on a small area so if there’s so issue with bonding you don’t have much to remove and reapply.

      Hope that helps!

  34. Steven Szewczyk says:

    Thanks Ivan,

    I appreciate your great review & finally applied 3 coats KSG after a 24 cure period between applications on my NBP Acura RL. I used your method with removal & had great success using Chemical Guy’s V7 spray sealant. Removal with CG V7 dampened microfiber was easy. I didn’t expect a discernible difference with KSG on my RL after using WGDG 3.0, BFWD & Menzerna Powerlock (all outstanding LSP’s) but was pleasantly surprised that KSG & CG V7 combo gives remarkable gloss, depth, reflectivity & richness to the finish that is nothing less than spectacular. Cheers, thanks again & Happy New Year.

  35. Doug Hof says:

    Ivan, thanks for your thorough explanation of the process you use. I just bought a new car and want to use Klasse AIO and Sealant Glaze to protect the finish. The dealer waxed the car before delivering it to me. Do I need to remove that wax before applying the Klasse products, and if so, what is the best way to do that in your experience?

    My question stems from the following comments mentioned in your article: “the vehicle will simply need a thorough wash, preferably removing any previous waxes, sealants and polishing oils. I always recommend completely cleaning the paint before application. However, I have yet to experience bonding or durability issues with KSG applied over other sealants or immediately after polishing, so take it for what it’s worth.” I’m just checking to see if your experience with applying KAIO and KSG over other has changed or not. I appreciate your advice on this matter.

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      Hi Doug,

      I would suggest removing it as you’re not sure what exactly is on there. The best way I’ve found is to give it a couple washes with a fairly strong soap, then the AIO should do a good job ensuring the Sealant Glaze has a good bonding surface. If the wax was recently applied, I’d even suggest leaving it on for a few weeks to “use it up” and not have to remove it, then do the AIO and SG application. That’s up to you.

      I still haven’t had any issue with KSG bonding to certain products, but it’s products I use regularly, such as a P21S wax after a few weeks or certain polishes then KSG application done afterwards. That said, I’m not sure how it’ll bond with products of lesser quality, so that’s why I always suggest trying to remove everything off the paint before application.

      Hope that clears it up.

  36. Doug says:

    Thanks for your reply. One quick follow up question: would you recommend claying the car first, even though it is brand new and has <10 miles on it. I'm new to claying. Is there a way to tell if paint needs to be clayed? The paint feels smooth as glass now.

  37. cj says:

    Thank You!
    Followed the Guide and my new Truck looks incredible.
    I know your instructions saved me lots of time and energy.

  38. Dr G says:

    Im considering using a DA at a low speed for the application and wet microfiber steps and by hand for the dry.

    Any thoughts on using a polishing pad for application vs a microfiber bonnet?

    Also, do you prime your applicator with Final Inspection or KSD alone and why?

    Thanks for the great info!

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      Dr G, I’ll simply paste my reply above to Chris regarding DA application/removal…

      Unless I’m touching up some areas by hand, I have always used Klasse AIO with a machine, usually the Porter Cable and a light polishing/finishing pad. The Sealant Glaze however I never got into machine application. Reason being it is extremely easy to apply by hand as it’s completely fluid and spreads easily, but also because I never liked applying or removing it with machine. Some sealants, like the Blackfire Wet Diamond, I’ll apply with the Porter Cable and a blue Lake Country pad, but with KSG I find it’s different and didn’t like applying it with the machine.

      You obviously have a problem with the elbows so I would say simply try it on a trunk lid or similar and see how it goes. I don’t see why you wouldn’t be able to apply it quickly with machine, however, if you plan to let it cure for a while then remove, I don’t know if removal by machine will be too effective. I’ll have to try both once I find some free time and I’ll surely report any findings to you here, but in the meantime I’d say just give it a shot at a slow speed on the PCXP and see how it goes. For removal, I’d look for some good quality microfiber bonnets to put over a pad on the PC and go from there.

      Hope that helps!

  39. John says:

    Just sharing my experience with KSG: I started with a couple applications of KAIO over a three week period. A couple weeks after the second KAIO treatment, I washed and applied my first coat of KSG, but I think I may have used too much, and I probably rubbed it in with too much force in small circles. Only let it dry for 15 minutes, but it was pretty easy to buff off by hand, and I’m really impressed with the results. I will try out your technique on my next application of KSG. Thanks for the tips!

  40. Matt says:

    Hi Ivan,

    Thanks for writing this article, your method worked like a charm.

    One quick question: can I layer on a coat of kit wax after 3 coats of SG? The kit wax mentions “micro-polishing agents” although it doesn’t say anything about being a cleaner wax (http://www.amazon.com/Kit-602663-Carnauba-Paste-Wax/dp/B000BQM6H8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367529016&sr=8-1&keywords=Kit+wax)

    Will I strip the Klasse by using this wax?

    Thanks!
    Matt

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      Glad it worked well for you Matt. Regarding the Kit wax, I honestly have no idea whether or not it’s a cleaner wax, so I can’t say how it would work with KSG. Honestly, I’d just go for something of more quality. Statements such as “unique micropolishers that remove minor scratches and haze” would make me want to stay away from the product just because it’s advertised as something it’s not. I’d say a P21S wax or even a Natty’s blue would be great on top of KSG, without worrying about any “micropolishers” removing the KSG.

      Hope that helps!

  41. John says:

    Unfortunately I decided to apply the second coat of KSG on a foggy day. Bad decision. Only let it dry for 15 minutes or so before buffing. It looked pretty good after the buffing, but after a day of dry weather and sun, I now see a thin film all over the car in the exact pattern that I applied it. Should I just wash again and re-buff? Hope I don’t have to start all over with KAIO.

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      John, I’d recommend you wash the car to ensure it’s clean, then try my method above, trying to wipe off the residue with a damp mf towel. Let us know how it goes.

      • John says:

        Strangely enough, a quick wash was enough to remove the streaking I caused with coat 2 of KSG. For the 3rd coat of KSG I followed your technique to the tee (OK, I only waited 45 minutes for the KSG to dry), but what I found was that the M34 QD method of removing the KSG residue is key. Very happy with the results. Thanks again!

        • John says:

          I think I’m good to go with the three 3 of KSG for a few months. I park on a busy street and have to spray off at least once a week because of sediment build up. Would it be harmful to my KSG coats to just apply the M34 QD after my next spray off?

  42. Adam says:

    Hi.

    First off, thanks a lot for this great method of applying SG!

    I recently applied 3 coats of SG over a coat of AIO. I waited a day between coats. After all this work, just last night, I purchased a DA polisher and some pads. If I look really closely in certain lighting conditions, I can see minor swirl marks in the paint even though otherwise the paint looks and feels really silky smooth and has nice glossy finish. My question is, can I just polish off the 3 coats SG and continue to polish out the swirl marks and start over with a base of AIO and then coats of SG? I am concerned, maybe unjustifiably so, that the SG will prevent me from actually getting down to the swirl marks in the paint, possibly clogging my foam pads.

    I really wish I had found the polisher a week ago before I applied the SG.

    Thank you in advance.

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      Adam,

      Since you already put 3 coats on, I would simply wait a few months to do any polishing/paint correction. The KSG shouldn’t clog up your pads, but unless you do strip it before polishing, you are technically “using” the KSG while polishing the paint, so you surely won’t get the same results as you would by polishing bare paint. It might take longer to do the same amount of correction. Hope that helps!

      • Adam says:

        Thank you Ivan. It does help – a lot. I think I may have a solution. Since I will be chomping at the bit to get started with my DA polisher, I will endeavour to convince my dad to let me ‘practice’ on his early 2000′s model Solara. Other than fairly regular washing and waxing – probably with Turtle Wax and a dish cloth – its finish remains untouched but in need of swirl and fine to moderate scratch removal. Failing his permission to allow me to do this, I’m sure my step mom – whose Corolla may never have even been washed in its lifetime – would allow me to practice on her car. The paint or clearcoat is somewhat faded, and obviously swirl free, so it would probably make a good starter project. If I botch it, I don’t think she’d care.

        Thank you again!

    • Ronald Gay says:

      I purchased a new vehicle recently. I have some Klasse SG that I want to use on it. I understand that it will be best to make sure there is no wax on it. Will using dishwashing liquid strip off what ever is on the paint now? Can I apply the SG with satisfactory results without using AIO first?

      • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

        Ronald, I like to use soaps made for cars, so I would say giving it a good wash with an aggressive soap meant for stripping wax would be good. If you won’t be doing any polishing (by hand or machine) and if you don’t know what was on the paint before now, I would recommend using either the Klasse AIO or the P21S Paintwork Cleanser by hand prior to applying KSG. This would ensure the paint is pretty clean of any oils, etc. from before and give KSG a good surface to bond with.

  43. Jenny H says:

    Thanks so much for your article. I just purchased a black 2013 Honda CR-Z and already had some unused KSG. I just completed my third coat of KSG (applied ~5 days apart), using M34 and MF cloths as you described. Worked like a charm! Since the car is not garaged, can I expect the KSG finish to last until fall? Also, would you recommend this fall treatment to include a coat of KAIO first (which I also have) before re-sealing with two coats of KSG? One more: can you use your M34 wipe-off method when using KAIO, or is that unnecessary? Thanks again.

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      Glad it helped Jenny! For the fall treatment, I would definitely recommend doing KAIO first to try and clean up the paint a bit for the fresh coats of KSG. I don’t think you need to use the M34 wipe-off method with KAIO as it doesn’t cure/dry as KSG does, plus I always use KAIO as an actual polish in that as soon as I’m done working on a single area, for example a quarter of the hood, I wipe it off immediately. Hope that helps!

  44. Robert Stevens says:

    What about optiseal instead?

  45. DavidW says:

    Hi Ivan–like your articles. Quick question: I did my spring detail a couple of weekends ago and managed to apply KAIO and two layers of KSG to my 2011 A6 Avant. But i would like to add that third layer of KSG. Can i apply that third layer so many weeks later, or do I really need to go down to bare paint and start over?

  46. steve says:

    Applied the Klasse “twins” to a 2013 black Accord and results are great. Have 2 coats of KSG currently and am going for a third. My question is this- is it necessary to topcoat with a good quality wax over KSG, or is periodic re application of KSG going to provide adequate paint protection without the addition of the wax topcoat. The vehicle is garaged and in Florida. Thanks

  47. Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

    Hi Steve,

    Aside from personal preference, there really is no reason to apply any wax over KSG as KSG looks great and works great on its own. If you’re not polishing the car for a couple years, I’d say a good thing to do would be decontaminate the paint lightly every year, then use KAIO before continuing with the KSG applications for protection.

  48. steve says:

    Great info, Ivan, thanks. Regarding your suggestion of an annual decontamination of the painted surfaces, are you suggesting the use of a clay bar, or some other procedure or product? I really want to do the best by this finish as I plan to keep this ride for some time and am aware that black is a challenge to maintain. Steve

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      Hi Steve,

      I’m basically suggesting whatever is necessary based on the contamination you have. I know that sounds way too general, but if it’s light contamination that a strong wash and KAIO will remove, then that’s all you need. Maybe you need some IronX, but can still avoid clay bar. On the other hand, you might simply need to use clay bar or the autoscrub pads, then maybe do some light polishing before re-applying KSG for protection. Hope that explains it better.

  49. Larry B. says:

    What is your method for using a DA with Klasse AIO. I have a Flex 3401.
    Thanks

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      Hi Larry,

      I would simply try to use a very fine polishing pad, such as a Lake Country crimson or black and just use KAIO with that on the Flex at speed 3.5-4 or 4.5. You don’t really need any pressure or speed as it’s more of a chemical cleaner and you shouldn’t be looking to remove any swirl marks, etc. with it, rather oxidation, built up wax, light contamination, etc.

  50. Ross Payne says:

    Great piece on the application of KSG, wish I had read it more carefully before using KSG the first time. Anyway, yesterday we applied All-In-One and KSG to a nearly-new car (washed with diluted Citri-Solv first). Looks good. My question: In a few months or so when it comes time to apply KSG again, can I simply apply AIO and KSG like this time? In other words, is it okay to use AIO on top of KSG? Thanks.

  51. Debbie says:

    I just applied the Klasse Twins with five coats of the Sealant. My questions are:
    1. If I apply a carnauba wax over the top of the Klasse twins, in six months when I need to reapply the Klasse, will I have to start all over again with the Klasse AIO because carnauba wax was applied over the top of it? If so, I think I’ll just skip the carnauba step. I’d like to just be able to apply one coat of Klasse sealant occasionally, vs. waiting until I have to start from scratch and go through this five coat process again.
    2. Right now I have a haze swirly look to my Klasse. Is this something that will just wash off in the first washing? I can’t remove it with a buffer as it just appears to move it around. It does seem like a rag with water on it will remove it, but since I just put on this last coat I don’t want to use water on as I just feel that would be removing what I just put on. I’d prefer to just put up with the haziness until the first wash in about a week, unless you would advise against waiting.

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      Hi Debbie,

      1. You can go either way. As long as you haven’t applied the wax in a while it should be fine to simply reapply KSG, but it would probably be better to do the AIO beforehand. I would probably just say do a coat or two every 2-3 months or as you see fit.

      2. Not sure what the haze is that you’re talking about, so I really can’t make any recommendation on it. It may be that you applied a coat too thick and left some solid residue on the paint, but again I can’t say unless I see it in person.

  52. Debbie says:

    Hi Ivan,

    I think the hazy swirls are just sealant residue. They look just like buffer trails in the sunlight. I was a little worried since I’m using am 8.8 lb rotary to buff the sealant and I know the dangers of a rotary buffer. I don’t have it on high speed and I keep it moving. They look greasy, but I don’t that can be because I think the Klasse sealant is water based. When I came home tonight I put some water on a towel and wiped over them on the whole hood. They were still there. I then dried it with a microfiber towel and the hazy swirls were gone.

    I’ll probably not bother with the wax and just apply a coat of sealant every three months.

  53. Rolando Bernardo says:

    Thanks for the great write up!

    I first clayed my car and followed your process. It’s looks like a mirror!!! I’m going to throw out my wax and other stuff and just use the Klasse Twins!

    My question now is what is the regular maintenance? Once a year? Twice a year? Thanks.!

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      Glad it worked well for you Rolando. For regular maintenance, you should wash regularly as needed, every 1-2 weeks usually maybe longer if you don’t drive much, but for waxing it’s tough to say. The Klasse sealant should last at least a few months, but due to many variables it can be 2-3 months or it can be 5-6. You’ll definitely want to re-apply a coat more than once a year and I normally recommend to do it at least quarterly to make sure it’s protected. So in short, I’d recommend reapplying KSG as you start to see it deteriorate, but I would do it at 3-4 months regardless.

  54. Belle Trinidad says:

    I have a brand new non-metallic 2014 X3 SAV for a week now. I washed it after picking it up from the dealership,
    I want to protect the paint but I don’t know how to start. Should I clay it first or just apply sealant and then
    wait to cure and then wax. Or just sealant would be ok? What sealant do you think is the best? What wax I would
    use if I’m going to wax it as per your suggestion? Thank you…please advise me what to do.

  55. Belle Trinidad says:

    Color is alpine white.

  56. adolfo r. says:

    Hey Ivan, thanks a lot for posting this. It was very helpful!
    I just did the whole process today on my car and it looks great.
    Just have a question.
    I sprayed the pad with some quick detailer first (just 3-4 sprays), while using both Klasse products.
    Also, I used it in the last step, to buff the sealant. The concern is that the quick detailer that I used (Ice Premium Car Care Spray Detailer) contains Carnauba Wax. The car looks great, but this will affect the sealant or the polish’ performance in anyway?
    Thanks in advance!

  57. John says:

    Hi Ivan,
    I have a white VW Passat. It’s been around 6 months since my last application of KSG (did a few coats of KSG after a couple AIO treatments). Over the months I’ve been noticing more and more rust colored specs appear on the surface of the car (mostly the hood), which I think is rail dust based on several searches on the internet regarding this condition (I live in a big city so this is probably expected). As an experiment, I used some AIO on the hood but it didn’t remove the rust colored specs. What would you recommend I do to remove the rail dust?
    Thanks in advance!
    John

  58. Bob says:

    Hi Ivan, I read most of the above and did not see any info concerning the use of Klasse sealant on wheels. I just purchased a set of rims with snow tires and want to protect them against brake dust and salt. How does the Klasse work for new wheels? Would several coats be better? Are there other products available that have better longevity? Thanks for your time and Happy New Year, Bob.

  59. Bruce Romanish says:

    Ivan,

    I’ve used the Klasse sealant but instead of using a detailing liquid to remove it, I just used a water dampened microfiber, then wiped it off with dry microfiber. In essence it’s your process but using water to moisten and remove the dried KO. Any thoughts on this or mad I short changing myself?
    Thanks for this wonderful thread.

    Bruce

  60. Roper says:

    You mentioned using Meguiar’s Final Inspection M34. Got me to thinking….
    Your thoughts on Meguiar’s #21 Synthetic Sealant or Meguiar’s #20 Polymer Sealant versus the Klasse sealant?

  61. Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

    Forgive me for the slow reply, but for some reason I wasn’t getting notifications of these replies until Roper’s last one came through. I’ll reply to them all here, hopefully it can still help out those who posted a few months back.

    Belle: For a brand new car, I wouldn’t recommend clay bar unless it really needs it as it can easily cause marring and lead to more necessary work. I would say just the sealant or possibly the AIO and then the sealant. As for wax, you can really use any carnauba you want on top of KSG, but I have always liked Pinnacle Souveran and P21S 100%.

    Adolfo: Glad to hear the car turned out great! I would advise staying away from using any quick detailer with a carnauba wax or cleaner wax in it because it just may alter the durability and performance of KSG. I can’t say if you’ll have issues now, but for future reference I’d say use a straight quick detailer with no wax.

    John: Unfortunately those specs can usually only be removed with a clay bar or CarPro IronX, so I’d try that route. It’s normal for any car to get it, but for obvious reasons they’re most noticeable on white cars.

    Bob: KSG works great on wheels and I would say 2-3 coats should work very well. Most waxes and sealants will give comparable durability, so if you’re looking for something more long term, I’d say check out the new coatings, specifically 22PLE rim coating. It’s easy to work with and should give you great protection, much better than a sealant. Also, a great option is CarPro HydrO2 sealant used every month or two for added durability as it’s VERY easy to use and protects well.

    Bruce: I don’t think you’re shorting yourself at all. I like a quick detailer simply for the added slickness (not slickness left on the paint, but slickness during removal of KSG residue), but if water works well for you then great.

    Roper: I think both of those are great sealants and do the job well. I had better experience in terms of durability with KSG so I always used that over the Meg’s sealants, but I can’t really say anything bad about them.

  62. Bobby says:

    Hi Ivan! I used this article when I first applied KSG to my car last year, and it was truly helpful!

    I’m about to spring-clean my car (wash, clay bar, KSG). I was wondering if I could use a QD like Meguiar’s Synthetic X-Press Wax (D156) everytime I wash the car afterwards, or would it strip the KSG? I was also thinking of diluting KSG with M34 (1:4) and using that instead?

    Thanks!

    • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

      Hi Bobby,

      Glad it helped you out last year! This time around, I would recommend something with no wax or cleaners because it may interfere with the KSG. I’m not sure what diluting KSG would do, but at the same time I haven’t tried it so I can’t say it’s good or bad.

      I would probably recommend simply using it as is to apply a couple layers, then after a few weeks you can top with whatever wax you wish.

      • Bobby says:

        Thanks Ivan! Just read some articles on the dilution recently. I was planning to use the diluted KSG on the first couple of washes first and the quick wax maybe later (after a month after applying KSG at least) or if time doesn’t permit on the first wash. I’ll post on the results.

      • Bobby says:

        Sorry meant to ask you this as well – is there a difference as to longevity and appearance if I use AIO then SG vs just using the SG after clay bar?

        • Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

          Bobby, I would to say there should definitely be a difference (mainly in durability, possibly in appearance as well) when you use AIO before KSG because AIO should clean the paint well and give a good base for KSG.

          • Bobby says:

            Hi Ivan! Took your advice and used the AIO on three cars today. That is one great product! After using a clay bar, I was still able to pull more dirt from the paint with the AIO!

            I’m just concerned I didn’t use enough product though? What I did was mist my applicator with Meg’s Mirror Glaze then put a dime-sized amount. One panel at a time with this procedure, and included the windows and headlights. Hardly hazed but I still followed almost immediately with a clean microfiber like recommended and it was instantly smooth and shiny.

          • Bobby says:

            Sorry I misted with Meg’s Final Inspection

  63. Ivan Rajic Ivan Rajic says:

    Hi Bobby,

    I’m not sure if you are mistaking AIO for KSG or if you simply used AIO (which is definitely a great product) instead of KSG, but utilized this method for application/removal for KSG.

    In any case, it sounds like you used KAIO, which is Klasse’s All-In-One polish which does provide a bit of gloss and protection. The protection is not as good as the High Gloss Sealant Glaze (which this article is about), but it is a great product on its own.

    In any case, I would say you did a fine job either way and you may simply want to add a coat of KSG on top of what you already did for additional protection.

    Hope that helps!
    Ivan

    • Bobby says:

      Hi Ivan! Yes it was the AIO and I’m sorry I know this is a KSG article. I did read somewhere that application with a misted pad will help with the distribution of the AIO, pretty much the same as the procedure with KSG.

      I’ll do the whole application next week and start from scratch Just wanted to try the AIO, but yes, the KSG is amazing.

      Thanks for all your help again, Ivan!

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