What Causes Swirl Marks?
by Ivan RajicThe age old question… What causes all the swirl marks seen in the paint on nearly every vehicle out there? The short and simple answer is “improper techniques and inferior products”. However, from my experience, the answer is anything but simple because there are numerous tasks within the detail process responsible for swirl marks. For this article, I’ll address a few of those tasks, explaining how they usually cause swirl marks and share simple techniques to avoid such results.
First off, to clarify, I consider swirl marks to be any lighter scratches in the paint, whether they’re circular, straight or diagonal. These are light scratches caused by different dirt particles being dragged around the paint with insufficient lubrication and with the incorrect media. As I’ll explain below, these swirl marks can be caused by the person detailing the vehicle through multiple processes, starting with…
Washing
Washing is one of the processes most responsible for creating swirl marks. Whether we’re using some old, cotton wash media or quality mitts like the reTHICKulous Wool Wash Mitt, we are always scrubbing the paint to a certain degree. What this means is that even with the most careful of methods and products, we will eventually start seeing some swirl marks. It’s up to us to decide how soon we want to see those swirl marks. Choosing the right products and proper tools for the job is a huge plus in reducing the chance for swirling during the washing process, so a quality sheepskin wash mitt will make a dramatic difference over a sponge from a local store, especially one used at a local $5 car wash! Quality wash mitts tend to hold dirt better and allow for plenty lubricity when cleaning the paint, both of which are extremely important in keeping swirls at bay. On the other hand, a wash mitt that doesn’t hold water/dirt well tends to press the dirt against the paint and not give enough lubricity for the cleaning process, resulting in light swirl marks. Worst of all is the local car wash that uses mitts on hundreds of vehicles daily, so while you may get away with it if you’re one of the first few cars through the wash, anything coming through later will leave in poor shape. In short, washing is the process during which swirl marks begin to show, so being as meticulous as possible with the tools, products and techniques is mandatory to keep your vehicle swirl free for as long as possible.
For those wondering how long it usually takes for swirl marks to appear, I wish I could give you a straight answer. The reality is that, considering you use the best products and tools available, it helps greatly if the clearcoat on your vehicle is on the harder side. In that case, it will take much longer to start seeing swirl marks on the paint, anywhere from 4-6 months or more. On darker colors, especially jet black paint where clear coat is extremely soft, swirls will probably appear after a couple months or so, depending on how often the car is washed and how dirty it is at the time. Regardless of the color, you can randomly expect to get a swirl mark here and there due to dragging some dirt inadvertently, but if it’s taken care of properly, your car should never get to the point where it looks as horrible as 99.99% of the cars out on the road today. For reference, one personal experience involves maintaining a brand new Ferrari 458 in dark blue color with somewhat soft clearcoat ever since August of 2011. Between myself washing and waxing monthly and the owner washing every week or two, the car has maybe 4-5 random swirl marks in the paint.
Drying
From my experience, next to washing, drying is the second most responsible for creating swirl marks. In fact, washing is in a way the most important part of drying because if a vehicle isn’t properly washed and cleaned, the drying process will surely result in quite a few swirl marks by dragging around left over dirt. Assuming proper washing is done, the right products and techniques are a must when drying in order to keep the paint as swirl free as possible. Cheaper towels of lesser quality tend to get hard after only a few washes, which leads to bad absorption and possible swirling. Pressure and technique are also greatly important. Pressure should be extremely light or none at all, simply enough to hold the towel on the paint to let it do its job. As for technique, the only way to all but completely eliminate possibility of swirl marks is to use to blotting method. Otherwise, wiping the paint even with little to no pressure can create swirl marks if something gets caught under the towel. Whenever I’m working on a car, I like to use the DI Microfiber Waffle Weave Drying Towel and prefer to use the blotting method, as described in my Winter Washing with Optimum No-Rinse article. This ensures I’m being as meticulous as I can with the drying process in order to try and avoid swirl marks as best as possible.
Claying
I was debating listing claying here at first but figured I’d include it. Reason being, claying itself is an abrasive and many people don’t realize that it can easily leave marring in the paint. Swirl marks are potential with clay bar decontamination if you get a piece caught between the clay bar and the paint. At the same time, unless the paint is fairly hard and plenty of lube is used, clay will almost always leave at least some marring and swirls of its own. This isn’t a bad thing as you should polish after a clay bar anyway, but for those who simply want to clay then wax, the only solution is less aggressive clay bar and plenty of lubrication!
Waxing
When I tell this to my clients the response is typically “Really?! Waxing causes swirl marks?” The simple answer is Yes! The reason that question gets asked a lot is because people don’t associate waxing with swirl marks at all due to the fact that the car has been completely washed and cleaned. However, waxing can surely cause swirl marks through the application and/or removal process. Reason being, some waxes, typically the older carnauba paste waxes, are fairly hard to apply and especially remove, requiring quite a bit of pressure during wiping to completely remove. As you can imagine, on a vehicle with softer paint it will be that much easier to create swirls with heavier wiping during wax removal. Also, many enthusiasts don’t realize how much pressure they’re capable of applying by hand because it’s so concentrated. I’ve had experience with a client who removed too much clear coat using a hand applicator and an over the counter scratch remover, all due to heavy pressure on a small concentrated area! For these reasons I always recommend waxes that are easy to apply, such as the P21S 100% Carnauba Wax and Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax, or sealants like Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze and Blackfire Wet Diamond. All of these protective products are extremely easy to apply and are removed with very little to no pressure, as a result minimizing or eliminating chances for swirl marks.
Car Covers
This is an issue I keep seeing with many new clients. They keep the car under the cover over winter and start seeing swirl marks soon after, getting worse and worse throughout the winter and requiring polishing in the spring. Why? It’s because they cover the car one day, take it out for a drive, then bring it right back and put the cover on. This is a big no-no! No matter how soft, expensive and reliable the car cover, it will cause swirl marks when placed on a car that wasn’t washed just before the cover goes on. Even a 10 minute drive to the grocery store and back will leave dust particles on the paint, so when the cover goes back on it’s simply rubbing all this dust into the paint. On some very hard paints, it might not do anything for a while, but on softer black paints the car will look horrible after going through only a few of these situations. So, wash your car before putting a cover on it AND make sure the cover is completely clean inside to avoid swirl marks.
Dusting
Dusting is a touchy topic with many car owners out there. There are a few dusters that are highly recommended and work great for everyone and there are some that just drag dust around. I personally only recommend cleaning the car with a mitt while washing and I will leave it at that. Reason being, dusting can definitely cause swirl marks because you are dragging a duster across the paint finish trying to pick up dust particles. If you must use a duster, I would advise the obvious like keeping the duster clean and using it as delicately as possible.
Quick Detailer Wipe-downs
This is one of the most poorly advertised processes and products within the detail industry. There are numerous quick detailers sold by a few different manufacturers that encourage car owners to simply spray on and wipe off for a great shine and some protection. What they don’t tell you is that along with the shine and protection come some swirl marks and scratches. Similarly to, but much worse than dusting, doing a quick detailer wipe down is a process where dirt and dust is basically pushed along and into the paint with a towel. As you can imagine, if there is a good amount of dust on the paint, especially if the paint is soft, one wipe with the quick detailer and towel will easily cause swirl marks. This is regularly done at car shows and concours events, so ironically the cars are being damaged while at the same time being displayed as great pieces of machinery. To avoid this I would simply recommend avoiding any quick detail wipe downs unless it’s just after a thorough wash or wax application, so basically after the paint is thoroughly cleaned. Otherwise, swirl marks are just about guaranteed during this process.
If you must do the quick detailer wipe-downs, I would highly advise first using Optimum No Rinse (ONR) as a quick detailer to clean the paint before using other quick detailers to get the extra shine and gloss. This recommendation is based on my experience with an old client, who had to do 4-5 of these wipe-downs on his black limousine every day! He did so in order to have a clean, shiny car for each client, but as you can imagine it resulted in polishing every couple months. Every time I saw the car it was covered with swirl marks as expected, so I recommended he switch from the product he was using to ONR. Next time I saw the car, after about 1.5 months of daily ONR wipe-downs, the amount of swirl marks was only about 50-60% of how it was originally when he wiped it down with the other product, so it definitely worked very, very well.
Well that’s about it for now. As always thanks for reading and hope you enjoyed it!
Great article..!..I especially applaud the section regarding QD wipe downs. I’ve learned the hard way that I don’t touch a dusty car with anything…until its been washed used the correct washing technique. The use of QDs, at car shows (after the car has been driven miles to the show), and also at home for folks who just want to get a light coating of dust off…forget about it (no, I’m not from Brooklyn). QDs seem to give folks a false sense of security, and should only be used immediately after a wash, be it with either ONR or a conventional wash shampoo.
I know that you put the QD section last, but in my own learning experience, that is the part that was causes my problems. Now I let the car get dirty before I touch it again. I don’t do spot cleaning, nor “dusting” with waterless washes, QDs, etc…I just let it get dirty and wash it properly once per week. Then immediately apply either a QD or something else like a spray sealant.
Excellent article Ivan and 100% agree with John’s statement about QD’s. Biggest mistake many can make (especially on dark colored cars) is to QD their dusty car the next day after washing. Let it get dirty!
Hey Todd,
Great article! Lots of good info. I can understand why you don’t like using quick detailers, but what about waterless washes? How do you feel about those?
Sorry, that comment is for Ivan. Wasn’t paying attention to who the author was! Oops.
If I recall correctly from one of Todd C’s previous articles:
“Never touch your paint surface with something that you wouldn’t touch your eye with”
Thanks for all the comments guys! The QD is definitely a big no-no and I’m happy that many others are aware.
Ivan, I second all the kudos here. Your posts recently have been very helpful and also keep me engaged in the conversation. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us!
Thanks for the kind words Andy, definitely appreciate it! Glad you’ve been enjoying some of the latest articles.
Lot’s of good information here Ivan! Thanks! What are your thoughts on forced air in regard to drying? To me, anything that facilitates water removal from the paint without physically touching it can only be a good thing. Also, a filter to remove mineral sediments in the rinse water seems to be a good idea as well. Again, thanks for a great overview on minimizing swirls!!
Scott
2009 Viper
Hi Scott,
I am a fan of forced air but I like filtered forced air. Using non-filtered blowers CAN cause bombardment of the paint with some particles flying around, so even if nothing happens it can. In any case, yes a filtration system for the water is also a great idea as it helps quite a bit.
Thanks for reading!
did a google search seen u article very inforative had a bad exiperience going through a automatic car wash that pull u car through it stop had to drive through with it dry then the plastic door flaps closed on the car as driving out thank for u articale it explain the marks on the new car second wash first wash a touchless no problems any advice would help
Hi Ivan got my car detailed.I won’t detail again till the fall.I have a flat black jeep.I use the two bucket method soft sheepskin all that stuff.my question is what wax would be the best to use for in between waxing one that would be smooth,residue free,also one that would eliminate swirls or cover them up for the longest period.In between detailing some unfortunetly will occur .
Ivan ,what about steam? I have bought a steam machine for my car wash . Can that be considered QD?
Vince I never used steam on the paint so I really can’t say. Hopefully someone with experience can chime in.
I will be storing car for months, but have to use a cover. No chance to rewash car when get to storage. I sit okay to have simple cover on? It is indoors and no wind. Temp min, 40 degrees. Simple flannel/fleece cover necessary in storage.
Also, should I put a fourth coat of SG on or first coat of s100 wax, then restart in spring with a complete cycle.
Thanks!
Tony, for the cover I would say if you HAVE to use it, then you simply have to use it. In this case the possibility of swirl marks is far less important than protecting the car with the cover, so you need to simply make sure both the car and cover are as clean as possible when you put it on. Also, make sure you remove it as little as possible or not at all before it’s ready to leave storage.
As for the protection, you can go either way, completely up to you. I personally prefer to put a couple of coats of sealant with a coat of wax before winter, then use wax throughout the warmer months and repeat the cycle in late fall. With the paint coatings such as 22ple, GlossCoat, etc., I have for the past few years completely eliminated the sealant/wax process and would simply polish and coat every 1-2 years, then use a spray wax/sealant every 2-4 months to keep it looking good and protected.
When car dusty, not dirty, just hose it off. I never hand dry my c7 Corvette. I use a blower.
I also will use my soap gun, lather up the car, then hose off & dry with blower. I never touch the car using this method
Great article!
Ok, my question is that I bought a truck in the evening hours and due to construction at the lot most cars were covered in dust, I brought the truck back the next day to get it detailed, the young salesman took the truck to the shop and his idea of detail must have been to hose it off, wipe it off or something because it came back showing all the swirls in the paint…then I told the manager I was upset with the condition I was unable to see the night I purchased it…he told me he would have it fixed on Monday, I took the truck home and washed the windows and got on a step ladder, I then saw the salesman didn’t wash the roof of the truck….I am very upset at the lack of knowledge on the salesman part how to detail a truck…I want to know if anyone really thinks they can fix these swirls with the staff that does the car lots detail work?
It is hard to say for sure that the staff would be or would not be able to correct the swirls without knowing the staff personally. What I can say is that we have found that many dealers will just take the car to a car wash, apply a product to fill in imperfections and/or will only do more damage when trying to fix them. We would highly recommend finding a high end detailer (https://www.detailedimage.com/Find-a-Detailer/) in your area and at the bare minimum get his opinion on it. Again this is not the same for all dealers and their detailing staff, but if they skipped even washing the roof it is not a good sign.
Very informative article! I was wondering what your opinion is with using a pressure washer. Would it hurt the paint if used before washing to get rid of the larger debris? Of course I wouldn’t use it full force. Also, what is the best way to remove dried bug guts without damage? Maybe you’ve written another article on this, I haven’t checked. If so maybe you can put a link in your reply? Thanks for any advice!
Unless it’s a very powerful gas powered pressure washer, you should be fine. However, even with an electric 1200-1500psi you can take off paint if it’s peeling or badly painted in the first place. I’ve seen this happen on wheel wells, wheels and actual panels of a car. As for bug guts, I’m no expert but we normally use a mild bug/tar remover along with the pressure washer. Seems to work very well.
Great information here Ivan, thank you. I was interested to learn more for myself and because recently we had a customer who mentioned that she had noticed swirl marks on her car after it was delivered. I was interested to learn how swirl marks happen because we have never had that happen before. Maybe a scratch or leak, but not swirl marks. She said she had noted them at delivery as f someone has wiped the hoot with a abrasive towel. Because I really could not imagine a car carrier driver wiping a car with anything abrasive I was a bit shocked. I don’t really know much about car paints and waxes. What could be the reason behind swirl marks appearing at delivery of a vehicle, after unloading off of car carrier trailer? I suppose that something else could have been the reason for these swirl marks, not just maybe the truck driver wiping the car with a towel right? Thanks!
Vassi
Corsia Logistics
Corsia – Swirl marks on brand new vehicles are unfortunately very common. Ive seen it with cars sitting at dealerships around here way too often. There are many things that can cause swirl marks, but from what I have seen from some dealerships here is that they wipe snow off the car with a large broom, take the car through a traditional brush car wash, use dirty wash mitts if they clean the cars themselves instead of using a car wash, if the car is wrapped in plastic when being shipped to them, dirt can be trapped underneath and cause scratches, etc. If the car was not wrapped and it is being shipped on a truck, just think of all the dirt hitting the paint that can cause marks, and then if the driver wiped the car down without a quick detailer or clean microfiber towel that could cause issues as well.
If a coat of wax will not protect the clear coat from being scratched with even gentle use of QD products, then what is the point of wax?
The point of the wax is to protect the finish, minimize swirl marks and make it easier to clean, all of which work together. Without wax, more stuff would settle on the paint and it would also be harder to remove since it’s on a non-slick surface. Sure wax won’t prevent swirl marks, but it can definitely make them less severe and minimize them. Hope that makes sense.
Thank you for the reply. I’m living with my first black car, a BMW – black sapphire metallic and it seems that if I breathe on it I create a problem. What brought this up is that I buffed out light swirls present when I took delivery of the car with about 95% success. I polished and I waxed. A few days later I used Meguairs detailer to remove dust and was rewarded with more ”damage.” Obviously that was before I read your warning about not using QD products, at least, I assume (?) until the car is washed and the surface cleaned.
Yes John that’s pretty much the case with all black cars. Having a metallic is probably at least 3-4x better than a pure gloss black because metallic is more resistant, but will still show a lot more than other colors.
Another thing to consider is that you may have not removed as many swirl marks as you originally thought because both polish and wax will help hide some swirl marks. In other words, the damage you saw after a few days may have been only partially due to your methods of cleaning it and the rest left over from before that you didn’t see right after the detail job.
Lastly, in response to your other questions… We don’t really deal or have experience with products that fill or hide swirls, but one product I know for sure makes things look better is the Sonax High Speed Wax. We use this and recommend for clients with black cars (mainly non-metallic) that either 1. have thinner paint and shouldn’t correct it yearly like they would like or 2. have to wash it often (we have a couple clients in the limo and taxi industry that wash and wipe cars 2-10x daily). It helps hide swirl marks and add gloss, so it may be something you should try out and use in between polishing/correcting it.
Hope that helps.
I really appreciate your advice and the Sonax product appears to
get great reviews on YouTube. I will try it.
For regular maintenance, do you have a sequence you recommend
following?
This question may seem obvious but i’ve found that reading /
watching YouTube raises my awareness that detailing is not a simple
process.
In ”wax tests” the procedure appears to be to wash, clay and
alcohol rinse before applying product. Is this procedure
recommended before any waxing? If not, how do you identify products
that can be applied over other products?
Last regarding swirl removal, I used M105 (orange pad) followed by
M205 (white pad). I’m aware that M205 cuts, so, how often would you
recommend using this product? You mentioned ”correction” once a
year which sounds like you don’t recommend a lot of buffing with
products like 105 or 205?
One more question which may be of more interest to others. Since seeing swirls drives me nuts, is there any reason not to do my best to avoid but them but then to use a product that ”hides” the swirls?
John you’re correct that it’s not simple at all. To answer your questions…
Using an alcohol or similar product wipedown before sealant will make it last longer and is the right way to do things. However, this may be very time consuming for some people and the durability you sacrifice may be worth the time you save.
Most products work well together, especially if applied weeks or months apart. However, contacting the manufacturer is your best bet at getting a clear answer
I wouldn’t recommend using M105 more than 1-2 years and 205 1-2 times per year. You’re better off using something more mild to simple improve light wash marring and swirls. Sonax Perfect finish and CarPro Essence work really well for this to slightly cut and slightly hide swirls to make paint look better.
Hope that helps.
Very helpful, thank you. I wish you were in SCAL. Its obvious I’m going to be an amateur at best. I would be better off backing off and paying for the service!
Swirl mark happens on all types of car and it is caused due to various reason. First of all, you have to dust it and then wipe it with wet cloth.
I think I have destroyed my paint. Own a black 1938 Chevy Coupe with a paint job that is 10 years old. I normally buff and polish once a year and everything looks fantastic, and everyone comments on my perfect paint and finish. However I’m not sure what happened recently. Applied compound and polish, and I am horrified with the streaks and scratches!!! Is there anything I can do to repair? I have not applied wax yet as I’m not sure how to correct this.
Stephanie – I am sorry to hear that! There are a lot of variables that can cause issues when polishing. Please contact us (https://www.detailedimage.com/Contact/) with more information on your process and our team can help pinpoint what may have happened!
As Reece said a lot of variables here. What exactly is done every year when you buff and polish? Did you do the same process/products this time around? Same temperature etc?