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10 comments on Using Touch-Up Paint

  1. Steven says:

    Thanks for the article, Ivan. One question that I have before I try to work on some chips on my black G37S. Does the area need to be completely stripped of wax and sealants prior to using the kit? If so, what would you recommend?

    • Ivan Rajic says:

      Definitely Steven. Isopropyl alcohol is good but a good wax and grease remover is best. I would consult with a local body shop or auto parts store on what’s best, but from what I know Klean-Strip Prep-All is a very good product.

  2. jim says:

    I’ve used Dr Colorchip with mixed results. On pinhead sized chips it worked pretty well after a few tries.. On anything like a match head sized chip, the metallic paint doesn’t work as well and almost appears a solid color instead of metallic. Forget any success on anything larger than a match head. I also found that the amount of “blender” thinner is insufficient for the amount of paint supplied. I see now the supply a stiff card to use with the blender and rag instead of just a rag. This is an old trick that they finally picked up on. Also very overpriced but with a couple new competitors on the market, that should affect the cost. One competitor is offering a buy one get a 2nd color free for less than the cost of one Mr. Colorchip. One of my friends tried it and it seemed to easily work and equally as well.

    • kevin says:

      What product did they use? I have a tiny chip and looking to fix it and don’t know what to use was gonna try the dMr colorchip

  3. Kyle says:

    I used Dr. Colorchip to repair a few chips on my 2006 Pontiac Solstice. They color is Aggressive which is a very bright red. While I thought the kit was overpriced, I got very good results. So good, in fact, that a buddy I showed the chips to before I made the repair had a difficult time finding the spot again after the repair. Since I worked on it, I could go right to the spot of the repair. However, I think I would have trouble finding it if it weren’t my car. It has made the chip very much less noticeable.

  4. Don’t dab in the middle of a chip, poke at the rim, swipe it with your finger once to level and fill in and move on cuz you got another dozen chips to go…..

  5. Roger says:

    Thanks for the info Ivan. But is the method the same for Pearlescent, as I seem to have a matt finish even after polishing.

  6. Daz. E. says:

    Hi. I was hoping you cud advise me as to what is my best method to restoring, polishing & protection for my paintwork & alloy wheels. I usually just use auto glym but I felt I need something else to protect it & my auto glym has gone very thin & watery so it needs replacing! I like the Bilt Hamber double speed wax that you sell. I’m thinking of using T-cutetallic, not the usual T-cut, a T-cut for metallic surfaces (less abrasive I guess). I believe that I would apply the metallic T-cut, then apply auto glym super resin polish & then the Bilt Hamber double speed wax to seal & protect. I like what I hear about this product but I’ve never used wax before, only auto glym after a meguiars gold class shampoo wash. Can u advise me if I am correct in my method & how to go about using all 3 but especially the Bilt Hamber? Also your recommendation for some quality cloths to apply the products? (do I need different types of cloths for each product). My car is a 2004 Audi A3 in Akoya Silver (clear coat lacquer) & the paintwork is in excellent condition for a 12 year old car but I feel I need more protection before the paintwork starts to show it’s age!

  7. I have been trying for years to get a satisfactory result with touch up paints. Even if the color appears to be the same while the paint is in the bottle, when I apply the paint to the car the match with the existing paint looks terrible. It stands out from a mile away, and does not blend in what-so-ever with the color I’m trying to match. What’s worse, is the fact that the paint level is not the same, making it stand out more. If the paint applied is larger than a match head, there’s no use in applying it. It would be better to have the body part (with me it’s usually the hood) repainted. It’s an expensive pain in the you know where, but it’s a real downer to look at splotches of unmatching paint on you hood and elsewhere.

  8. ERAPaints says:

    Very useful guidance for cartouches up paints with full details.

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