I’m a big fan of the site and there is certainly a wealth of valuable
I only have a PC 7424XP, and looking to get as much correction as possible
with at most two steps (compound->polish).
The How-To / Review specifically recommends Meg’s 105 to be used with the
SurBuf pads… What if I already have Menzerna SIP & 106FA? I don’t see why
there would be an issue with this but thought I’d ask.
I already have a variety of LC pads (6″ orange, white, blue, black; 4″
orange, and more).
For my compounding step, should I use some LC PFW or LC Yellow/OJ or Surbuf?
Does a smaller pad = more effective cut or simply better for maneuverability
in tight spaces?
Should I keep the harmonic balancer weight attached to the PC regardless of
the size pad I’m using?
I too am pretty confused as to generally how many pads I need to cover a
full vehicle and also exactly both HOW to go about cleaning them while using
and in preparation for storage.
I realize there are many questions here but these are ones I’ve had for a
while and I’m sure I’m not the only one.
Thanks in advance!!!
-Matt S from PA
Matt! Thanks for the complements, now lets get you some answers to your questions………I hope!
A PC+105 and surbuf will correct paint very nicely. The technique is more important than the product in this case, actually in detailing the technique is everything.
I’m going to steal the words from Bryan Burnworth of Peach State Detailing, he has become one of the masters of this process.
“This process can be messy.
7″ surbuf pad. (my insertion…..You can use smaller pads, but it might take an extra pass or two…)
PC or XPPC
1. Do not prime the surbuf pad.
2. Apply 4 “larger then pea sized” dots of M105 to the pad.
3. Work the polish into an 12×12″ area without turning on your PC.
4. Spritz the surface with water.
5. As in step 3, again work the polish around without turning on your PC, you are looking for a milky consistency.
6. Turn on PC and work the polish till it appears to dry.
7. Spritz more water onto the suface and continue to polish. What this does is bring the polish out of the pad and back to the surface.
8. I have found that you will need IPA sprayed onto your MF to remove the M105 from the surface.
9. Inspect and repeat if needed.
If you find that one time is not enough to remove defects, you can always repeat #7 and keep on polishing.
After 2-3 sections, you will need to clean the pad by brushing off the pad and blowing out the excess polish with compressed air. After the pad becomes overly saturated w/ polish clean with warm water and some APC. Spin to dry. The pad does not have to be totally dry to use it again.
I have removed severe defects and 2000 grit wetsanding marks with this method.
Depending on the hardness of the clear, you “might” be able to go right to M205 with a black finishing pad”
Here are the Cliffs Notes to your other questions!
No need to change the balancer IME.
Since 105 is a NON DIMINISHING abrasive it works best, the others you have break down over time and start to “polish” out.
I like surbuf for compounding over PFW on a PC.
A smaller pad offers the ability to get into small spaces, it will cut differently but that is another subject. It will work fine.
You will go through more cutting pads/ car than finishing pads. I use 3-4 per compact size car as they get filled with clear coat and polishes. I use about 2 finishing pads.
Cleaning pads: get some pad cleaner, soak the pads in a bucket, soak for a few hours, rinse them very well, water the daisys by spinning the pads on your pc, allow to air dry in a dust less area, when dry put into a clean ziplock bag.
I’m hoping all this info is not a system overload for you, but you ask questions and we answer them!