Blackfire Wet Diamond Paint Sealant Product Reviewby Todd Cooperider
There are a variety of paint sealants on the market today to choose from, and it can become a difficult task of choosing which is right for you. Some are known for their durability, some for their ease of application, and some for their stunning good looks. Many times it’s simply a matter of which feature/benefit is most important to the end user.
First let’s take a closer look at the Blackfire Wet Diamond, All Finish Paint Protection. The German-developed crystal polymer formula has Polycharger in it, which means no mixing or blending as you will find with other products on the market. Polycharger boosts slickness and shine while extending the protection and durability by cross-linking polymers to create an incredibly strong barrier. You can expect durable protection for about 6 months.
The Polycharged, oil-in-water emulsion is VOC compliant in all 50 states, and is safe for all finishes with or without a clear coat.
The durable and brilliant shine will protect your vehicle’s finish from dirt, moisture, UV rays, and airborne contaminants for many months, even through regular washing.
I’ve gotten the opportunity to use Blackfire Wet Diamond on a variety of colors so far, and I must admit that it provides one of the most brilliant and wet finishes I’ve seen. Silver is one of the most difficult colors to get a true “wow” factor going, but if you look at the photo below of the BMW M3 I detailed in Silver Grey Metallic, you’ll see that I easily achieved that level of shine and gloss.
I also found the product to be easy to use, indifferent to temperatures and humidity, and it required very little effort to achieve great overall results. Some products require a steep learning curve to get them to work properly, but that is not the case at all with Wet Diamond. It went on easily, it buffed off with very little effort, and then I pulled it out in the sunshine for inspection to find a beautiful finish without streaks or haze.
Although applying a wax over a sealant is not necessary, some enthusiasts (me being one of them) like to put on a coat of fine carnauba to kick it up a notch. I have applied Chemical Guys E-Zyme Natura on top of Wet Diamond, and the final look has been nothing short of stunning. If you wish to do this however, you must wait at least 8 hours after application of the Wet Diamond so it can properly cure. So if you like to wax over your sealant, please keep this in mind.
If you’re looking for great looks, relatively ease of use, and proven durability, then you should seriously consider trying Blackfire Wet Diamond, All Finish Paint Protection!
How to use:
I prefer to apply Blackfire Wet Diamond with my Porter Cable 7424XP and a Lake Country blue finessing pad, but it can easily be applied by hand as well.
First you want to make sure that you start with a freshly prepped surface. Although it will look great after just a thorough wash, it will look even better if the prepping also includes claying and/or polishing to remove any swirls, defects, or oxidation.
Since Wet Diamond is an oil-in-water emulsion, you want to make sure that you shake the bottle well prior to using, and also shake it often as you work your way around the vehicle.
As with most products, it’s best to use on a cool surface out of direct sunlight.
For application with a PC, I will apply two dime-sized drops of Wet Diamond to the clean pad, and then lightly spread it onto the surface on speed 3.5~4. No pressure is required on the machine, and you only need to get an even coverage…no need to work it in like you would a polish. With just two drops of product, you should be able to cover an entire area (door panel for instance) before needing to add more product.
Once you apply it to the entire vehicle, take a few minutes to finish up the wheels, glass, exhaust tips, etc and by the time you’re finished, the Blackfire Wet Diamond will be ready for removal with a fresh microfiber towel.
You will find that the residue is very easy to remove, and the surface now has an unbelievably slick feel to it. This slickness will generally last several months, while the protection of the sealant should last up to about 6 months. More frequent applications are not necessary, however it is perfectly acceptable to apply Wet Diamond more often if you want to have that fresh, slick feel to it.
For application by hand, apply a quarter sized amount of product to your hand applicator, and then work in sections just like you would using a PC. Apply to one section by hand, then buff off residue with a plush microfiber towel, and then move onto the next section. It’s that simple!
If you wish to apply two coats of Blackfire Wet Diamond, or if you want to top it with a high quality wax, then you will need to allow it to cure for at least 8 hours after you have completed the initial application/removal process.
Blackfire Wet Diamond is truly a great paint sealant that produces a brilliant shine, depth, a high gloss, and a vibrant finish. For those willing to spend just a little extra time, or don’t mind waiting for the post-application cure time before topping it with their wax of choice, I can highly recommend this product. You will be very happy with the results!
Here are a few photos of vehicles I’ve applied Blackfire Wet Diamond to. These are all after polishing, but before any application of wax.
2008 Corvette. Blackfire Wet Diamond applied after polishing with Menzerna PO203S.
Rare 1985 Ferrari 288 GTO. Blackfire Wet Diamond applied after polishing with Menzerna SIP and Menzerna 106FA.
If you have any additional comments or questions, please submit your reply in the comment box below.
hi i have a question, i only have a rotary buffer and i dont have a pc i was wondering what rpm i should use the rotary at , or should i do it by hand.
also i have another question, i have a 2000 prelude and i was wondering if i need to use a nxt 2.0 wax on top of this? or should the sealant be good enough
also i dont get what you mean by cure does that mean put the wet diamond on and do the finger test then wipe it off and wait 8 hrs or put it on and wait 8hr then clean it off
If you don’t have a PC7434, then I would recommend applying the sealant by hand. Just apply it evenly.
There’s no need to top the Blackfire Wet Diamond with a product like NXT…it will do great by itself both in looks and in durability.
After you remove the Blackfire Wet Diamond residue, it will continue to cure. This is why the manufacturer recommends that you give it at least 8 hours after removal of the residue to top it with any kind of wax (if so desired). So to answer your question…wipe it off, and then wait 8 hours to top it.
oh ok, is the wet diamond like wax you do the finger test?
Not really…not as finicky as a paste wax can be at times. No need to do a “swipe test” with it. You can let it set for just a few minutes, or go back after 20 minutes or so…really easy to work with, and easy to apply and remove.
Just got mine today and did my black cts coupe. It looks great. People were stopping by and telling me how good it looked. Love the product and would recomend it to everyone. Thanks for the shine
Thanks for the review. one question though, after 8 hours of curing, do i rinse the car before a coat of wax? I park my car out side and it will surely gather dust overnight.
I would wash the car before applying a wax. If it is just a light layer of dust, a quick detailer may be perfect. If it is anything more than a light dust, I would highly recommend giving it quick wash with a maintenance shampoo like the Chemical Guys Maxi Suds. Another option is to apply the wax after applying the sealant in a shorter amount of time. A minimum of 1 hour is recommended to let the sealant cure before you can top it with a wax. 8 hours is certainly okay, but often times people can not wait and 1 hour works great as well.
how many blue pad do you use for 1 layer of bfwd for the whole car?
Just one blue pad is required for Blackfire Wet Diamond application.
Im wondering is the BLACKFIRE Midnight Sun Ivory Carnauba Paste Wax best for wet diamond? What other wax you can recomend? Im thinkin about p21s 100% carnauba or Wolfgang Fusion polymer. Can you give advice what wax of this price range is best for topping Wet Diamond? Thank you very much.
In that price range I would recommend Blackfire Midnight Sun as the best option since they were developed to work together. Two coats of Midnight Sun over Blackfire Wet Diamond is what the manufacturer calls Wet-Ice Over Fire. Just be sure to give the Wet Diamond at least 8 hours worth of curing time before topping it with wax.
But if you you already had a wax like P21S 100%, or Chemical Guy’s Pete’s ’53 Black Pearl in your arsenal…those would be great topper options as well.
I hope this helps!
Do you have to apply a wax after applying a sealent? Or can you just apply a sealent and nothing else for protection?
The sealant applications should provide all the protection you need, so no, you do not have to apply a wax afterwards. If there is a certain look that you’d like to go for however that can be achieved with a particular wax, then applying it over the sealant is perfectly acceptable.
Would getting BFWD on plastic trim or wiper blades create staining?
I’ve never had issues with staining of plastic trim while using Blackfire Wet Diamond, and I have used it a lot!
Blackfire Midnight Sun sounds good but will Supernatural or the other Dodo Juice waxes work just as well?
Yes. I heard that Supernatural attracts bugs though..and it’s expensive. If you want to try a Dodo Juice product you could try the samples or you could get hard candy as that is an all around wax.
What color car do you have?
I am going to apply Blackfire Wet Diamond later today. I just got done with polishing with M105, M205 and P085RD it took me several days but the shine is amazing. I am going to re wash my mustang before applying Wet Diamond. I was wondering if I should top it off with my Natty’s Blue or another coat or Wet Diamond eight hours later since these are the two protection items I have.
I would just use the single coat of Blackfire Wet Diamond. Get yourself familiar with how the one coat process works and what it looks like, and then perhaps in another couple of weeks if you want to experiment some more you can either apply another coat, or you can try using some wax at that time.
Are you using the BFWD on trim pieces as well, e.g., pieces surrounding the windows, license plate holders, headlights, and random plastics and chrome bits around the vehicle? What method/tool/product are you using to apply the product in these instances? To ask another way, can BFWD be a sealant for all exterior components safely?
Thanks a Million,
I pretty much use it everywhere except for rubber and textured plastic pieces. I don’t think there would be any issues using it in these areas, but it’s just a matter of habit really. I just use a soft foam hand applicator for all of these areas. I’ve been using this on my personal car for some time now and haven’t come across any kind of issues with staining or otherwise.
On that note, how would you treat those textured plastics that sometimes appear in rear diffusers or the plastic mesh typically found in the grille area? Do you use a protectant like 303 or another type of sealant? Also, how do you clean/seal those many exterior rubber seals during your details?
Thanks again for your thoughts!
Is there any particular reason why you don’t use Zaino products? Currently looking at the Blackfire range but Zaino is also in the mix.
Zaino always seemed to require too much effort for my liking. I’m all about ease of use…
I’m a little confused. If the Blackfire Wet Diamond creates extreme shine, slickness, durability, then why would you need to apply the Blackfire Midnight Sun afterwards? One website that promotes Blackfire products said if you top it with a carnuba wax then it will reduce the slickness. I have a 2009 Black infiniti and I’m EXTREMELY picky about how my car looks. Would the Midnight Sun make a black car look better than just the Wet Diamond alone? Thanks!!
The key here is that you don’t need to top Wet Diamond with Midnight Sun. Can you do it? Sure you can. Will it make the car look “better”? That depends on the look that you like. Some people may just prefer the looks of the sealant all by itself, some may like it better when topped with wax, and some people couldn’t tell the difference. So I’m not going to tell you to go out and buy Midnight Sun and tell you it’s going to look so much better just so we can make an extra sale. I know you were hoping for a definitive answer, but with issues like this it all boils down to what you personally like. Part of the fun of detailing is testing different products and combinations to find a look that you like. If you want to see if you can kick it up a notch, then get some Midnight Sun or other high quality wax and test it out. If you’re happy with the looks as they are, then just keep going with the BFWD.
I hope this helps!
Thanks Todd. If I’m going to use the Blackfire sealant do I need to also use the Blackfire car wash? I’m out of car wash and was thinking about getting the Chemical Guys Citrus Wash but didn’t know if it would be best to use the full line of products of Blackfire rather than mix and match. Also, I’ve been reading about wash guns (foam guns) and was curious if they really work well. I know when I’ve used the ones at a manual car wash (seldom), they don’t seem to really get my car clean but wasn’t sure if it was because they didn’t have good sudsing product. If I could get myblack car good and clean with a foam gun I would definitely buy one because it would prevent me from using a mit that could cause scratches. Just curious if you recommend those. Thanks!!
No, you don’t need to specifically use the same manufacturer’s car wash. CG Citrus Wash is great…just make sure you use it at the recommended ratio so you don’t prematurely break down the sealant. As for foam guns, they’re great for pre-soaking and for adding an additional layer of lubrication to prevent marring. If you use it, you still have to use a wash mitt though as they’re not designed to totally clean the car all by themselves. Yes I do recommend it though, and use mine during every wash on my black car in addition to the Grit Guard 2×4 Method.
Todd, in reading some of the other posts, specifically the one on Sept 29th, you recommend the Chemical Guys E-Zyme. How does that compare to the Blackfire Midnight Sun carnuba? The E-Zyme is $275, way out of my price range for a wax, so I was wondering why you didn’t recommend the Midnight Sun. Is there really that much difference in carnuba waxes? Also, do you have any experience using Zaino products? Thanks!!
There are so many different kinds of waxes out there, so I don’t get a tremendous amount of time with each of them to be able to give recommendations. Since I spend so much time working with Ferraris, I just reach for E-Zyme…it’s absolutely fantastic wax, it looks amazing, and it’s easy to work with. And yes, there are a lot of differences from one wax to another. Will everybody be able to tell? Maybe not. The best bet is to find a wax or two that you like to work with, and use it regularly. When you run out, you can always try something different. No…I don’t use Zaino.
Todd, I have just a few other questions. I’m going to buy the Blackfire Wet Diamond sealant, and top it off with the Midnight Sun wax. In reading some of the other posts, I think I will also get some Chemical Guys glaze to apply before the sealant. My car is a 2009 Black (non metallic) Infiniti G37 so I’m very cautious not to create swirls, etc. Plus, the paint is considered one of the newer type paints that is “suppose” to fill very fine scratches as the car’s surface gets hot. How effectively that works I don’t really know. I don’t think I need a polish as my paint is in excellent condition. My questions are:
1. What kind of clay bar do you recommend I use? gentle? ultra fine? any particular brand?
2. What kind of detail spray do you recommend? There are so many out there and they all seem to promise the same thing, slickness, shine, ease of use, etc. I’ve used chemical guys before, zaino, and a couple others but was wondering if you prefer Optimum products over the others, if so, which one, OptiClean or Instant Detailer and gloss?
3. Last question, I bought a Porter Cable Orbital last year. I’m not sure of which pad(s) to use to apply my sealant. Do the pads that are sold on DI fit the Porter Cable orbitals (pads with the velcro backing)?
Thanks for your time! I appreciate your professional recommendations!
1. If you’re not polishing, then I’d recommend using the Ultra Fine clay bar only.
2. So much of it comes down to personal preference on instant detailers. I definitely like Optimum Instant Detailer and Gloss Enhancer, and the Meguiar’s Ultimate Quik Detailer as well. I’ve also been using the Chemical Guys Synthetic Quick Detailer lately with great results.
3. Was it the Porter Cable 7424 series random orbital polisher that you purchased? You’ll need to make sure that you get yourself a backing plate for it to suit the size pads you want to work with. The 148mm backing plate is for the 6.5″ pads, the 125mm backing plate is for the 5.5″ pads, and the 85mm is for 4″ pads. For sealant application, you’ll want to use blue pads.
Thanks Todd. The random orbital that I have is the Ultimate Detailing Machine model 1000 which has a 5-inch FlexPlate flexible velcro backing plate. It came with DAS Pads, blue, orange, green, and white. I’ve only used the machine twice, mainly because I’m not sure of which pad to use, etc. Is this something that the buffing pads from DI are compatible with?
If it’s just a simple velcro backing plate, then yes…they would be compatible.
Todd, I have one other question that I meant to ask in my previous email. If I’m not going to polish, would it still be of benefit to use the Chemical Guys EZ creme glaze prior to using the Blackfire sealant? I’m definitely going to clay my car but I’m not comfortable using a polishing product on my black paint because I don’t have polishing experience and I’m afraid I’ll create swirls, etc. On one of the other posts that I read, it always mentions using a glaze after polishing so I wanted to ask. Do some glazes clean and mildly polish too? Thought about either the EZ creme glaze or maybe the Blackfire polish/glaze prior to the sealant. Just confused here on what would be best. Thanks!!
Yes, it would definitely be beneficial for you to use EZ Creme Glaze prior to the application of BFWD even if you’re not polishing. The EZ Creme will also help to clean the paint, and prep the surface for a good bond with the sealant. Some glazes may also contain mild abrasives in them…just read the label and it should clarify. If I’m just doing a “freshen up” on a client’s car that doesn’t include polishing, I’ll use the EZ Creme / BFWD combo.
Thanks. I had some bird dropping on my hood that had dried, so last night I sprayed it with my detail spray, let it set for couple minutes, wiped it off but it still left a mark. I tried some Zaino cleaner (just by hand) and it didn’t take it off. Do I need a polish? Any recommendation?
Bird droppings can do quite a bit of damage in a short amount of time. At the very least, you’ll need to use an abrasive polish by hand to remove the damage that has been done. You may want to first try something like Meguiar’s Scratch X. Remember to re-apply your sealant in that area afterwards.
If that doesn’t do the trick, you’ll need to go more aggressive and use a machine like the Porter Cable or a Makita rotary polisher with abrasive polishes.
I hope this helps.
Do you foresee any potential problems in applying a glaze before applying BFW? I’m thinking of a glaze like Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze w/Acrylic Shine II. Wondering if there would be any product compatability issues.
No problems at all with this combination, and as a matter of fact many of the Pros here on DI regularly use Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze before applying Blackfire Wet Diamond.
You said there’s no need to top the Blackfire Wet Diamond with a product like NXT, do you not like NXT, or is there a reason that you don’t recommend following the BFWD with the NXT?
First of all, Blackfire Wet Diamond is a very good looking and durable sealant and therefore doesn’t need anything else. The only times I’ve topped it has been with a very high quality carnauba paste wax like Chemical Guys E-Zyme.
And as for NXT, it has cleaners in it and could potentially reduce the durability of the Blackfire Wet Diamond, and possibly strip it altogether as well.
Thank you for your great insight. Can bfwd be topped with fruits best of show carnuba wax? I have heard it is hard and may damage bred.
Thank you for your great insight. Can bfwd be topped with fruits best of show carnuba wax? I have heard it is hard and may damage bfwd finish.
Actually I’ve never heard of that wax, so I couldn’t say how it would react over the Blackfire Wet Diamond.
Forgot to include the manufacturer. It is the Griots best of show carnuba wax. Thanks for taking the time to answer. I get my bottle of blackfire tomorrow.
Between chemical Guys EZ Creme vs. Blackfire Gloss Enhancing Polish. Do you think what is batter before applying BFWD?
They’re both going to work well before applying BFWD, however they will be used at different times and for different applications. EZ Creme should be used after you’ve done polishing, or if the paint is already in great condition and you just want to apply a fresh coat of BFWD. If you want to do a very light polish before using BFWD, then you would want to use a product like the Blackfire Gloss Enhancing Polish to restore a little gloss and remove light defects first.
Thank you Todd. I have last question 🙂 .If i use PoorBoys – Black Hole before applying BFWD is better than EZ Creme ?
I ask questions about Blackfire and Ultima sealants but get no response. Why is that?
I have read in some of the car forums that some folks like to use a coat or two of wax on top of Blackfire Wet Diamond for more surface protection particularly in Winter. One of the favorite waxes is Collinite 845. Does Collinite 845 actually have better durability than the other waxes and is it beneficial to apply it over BFWD?
I see where you asked some specific questions about Ultima products in the Acura RL article, and the author had replied that he didn’t have experience with them (DI does not sell Ultima). If you have posted elsewhere and we missed it…we do apologize for that.
Collinite does make very durable products, and they have about the same durability as does BFWD. While you can layer the wax over the sealant, you won’t double the protection.
You might be at SEMA, if so hope you are having fun.
I had the bad experience to find a bird dropping in the middle of my Red Audi hood. You mentioned earlier to do a small local treatment with MEG’s Scratch X. I have several of Menzerna products PO203S, 106FF and PO91E as well as M105/M205 will any of these be better?
Please advise on the best and easiest on/off products. I am considering Pinnacle swirl remover, pinnacle finishing polish, and soveran carnauba wax. My vehicles look good and I want to maintain them as easily as possible. I’m not as young as I used to be!
Thanks very much,
Todd: Does the Blackfire Wet Diamond leave any white residue if you happen to get it in body seams or around trim pieces or on rough black plastic trim?
No, it does not leave a white residue…
When using the Porter Cable how many passes do you need to do total with this sealant? Also, once applied how long should you let it sit on the paint before buffing out the residue?
When applying Blackfire Wet Diamond, you’re not necessarily thinking of it in terms of passes like you would a polish…you’re simplying working for a complete coverage. Once you’re done, just give it 20 or 30 minutes and it will be ready for removal.
Ok so I only have to apply it to a section one time?
I have a 2011 Iridium Silver ML350. Its been out the show room for about 3 months. As you might know it’s been a rough winter here in New York and I keep the car in my outside driveway. I notice that there is alot of tiny dots of tar and probably some other stuff. I want to start from scratch and maintain the paint as best I can. I been doing alot of research and a particular combo that was highly recommeded was the Blackfire polyclay, Blackfire gloss enhancing polish, Blackfire wet diamond all finish paint protection. I want to know if these are safe on the color and the fact that the vehicle is fairly new and also that I will maximize my results. Please let me know if u recommend a different product or approach.
That approach sounds solid, and the products would work just fine, or some could be interchangeable without any adverse affects. You might want to look through an article I posted up for doing a new-car prep on a Mercedes SLS AMG as it goes over many of the areas that you will be covering.
I have a brilliant black 2010 Audi A5. Now that the weather here in NY has been getting better I’ve been getting the itch to work on the car. I had just received my order which contained the Optimum Hyper Spray Polish. I first clayed the car and then used the polish that with an orange pad. The sections I worked on came out great. I also used it on my clear bra on the nose of the car which came out perfect. I topped off with Blackfire Wet Diamond (using a PC) and it really came out amazing. Since I have a clear bra which goes a 1/4 of the way up the hood, I always tape the edge. When I removed the tape you can tell where the tape was since it didn’t have that wet look like the rest of the hood. Should I do that strip by hand or do you think I can use the BFWD with the PC right over the edge. It didn’t look like it created much dust or would leave any build up.
As long as you’re using it with a soft pad, no pressure, and a slow speed around 4 or 4.5, you can go right over the edge of the clear bra without any problems when applying BFWD.
I haven’t tried a sealant before but have some BWDS on order. I detail twice a year and clay every other detail job. I have been using Optimum spray wax after every wash, so a good coat of wax stays on the car year round. The web site for the Blackfire Deep Gloss Spray Sealant recommends to use after every wash as a maintenance spray. Don’t have any of the spray sealant yet but, you think I will see any benefit using this instead of the Optimum spray wax in my routine? My wifes car is “white sand triple coat” kind of a light off cream and my truck is white. I have read that BWDS will make the light colors “pop”.
Appreciate any input.
My previous post might not have been clear on what I have and don’t have. I have Blackfire Wet Diamond Sealant coming. My question was the use of their spray sealant as a maintenance product over the BFWD in place of the Optimum Spray Wax and will I see a difference between the two?
Thanks Jim Phillips
I doubt that you would see a visual difference between the two products. Perhaps you could use your Optimum Spray Wax after washing until it’s gone, and then get yourself some of the Deep Gloss and try it out for comparison. I think you’ll be happy with the performance either way…
Thanks for the advise and taking this a step farther, I have been reading about using a glaze, such as Chemical Guys Extreme EZ-Creme Glaze, after I polish and before applying the BFWD. Supposedly this will enhance the final shine? However it has been suggested that, putting BFWD over a glaze will not last as long as just the BFWD alone. Anything to that? My truck sits outside and durability is going to take president over the small amt of shine gained by a glaze. My wife’s car is used daily, sits outside at work but is inside in the evening, so I would think the approach would be the same as for the truck? I would like to have the best of both worlds but will rely on your advise.
EZ Creme Glaze is a cleaner and prep agent as much as it is a gloss enhancer. So by using this after polishing and before applying BFWD, you’re cleaning the polishing oils from the surface and prepping it for a good bond. Now I wouldn’t rely on other (traditional) glazes to do the same thing, and yes…others may actually reduce durability. But there are a lot of highly skilled professional detailers that use this same combination to provide the best overall looks and durability.
I hope this helps.
Thanks Todd, that’s what I wanted to know. I was debating on the glaze but am going to order some and give it a try.
One last quick question, if I may? Do you see any issues with using Optimum Spray Wax over the BFWD sealant? I have used the Optimum spray wax for some time and know it’s not as durable as a paste but I like the convenience of “wipe on and wipe off”
I don’t see any issues with this combination…
OK…I have most of my stuff and waiting for a clear dry weekend to detail my wife’s car. I will wash with Chemical Guys Citrus wash, clay, polish, alcohol rub down, Chemical guys glaze, BFWD sealer,then maybe another coat in 24 hours. Interestingly enough that the BFWD says nothing on the bottle about cure times between coats. You have to pick that up off the web site. In addition I have found nothing concerning cure time with the Chemical Guys glaze. After applying and buffing it off can I go directly to the BFWD sealant or do I have to wait? The only thing I still need to get is a good polish. The paint is in excellent shape and will not need any major corrections but I want to polish anyway to help with the end results. With the process listed, what polish would you recommend?
As for the EZ Creme Glaze…no “cure time” is necessary. Apply it, wipe it off, and immediately apply your sealant.
Let me know what car you have, and what machine(s) you plan on using for the polishing stage and I could make a recommendation.
Thank you so much! I plan on doing both vehicles for the summer months. My wife’s car is a 2008 Ford Edge and the color is “White Sand Triple Coat” Kind of a light cream with light metal flakes. My truck is a 2010 White Ford. I will be using a PC 7424 for polishing with Lake Country Green Flat Finishing pads. For the glaze and sealant I have some Lake Country Red Flat Final Finishing pads but may apply those by hand? I also have some unused Buff and Shine Fine Finishing pads that are 100 PPI. The Buff and Shine are left over from when I was doing this quite a bit and the LC pads are new.
As far as what I have on hand in the way of polish are….Meguiars Deep Crystal Polish…Mothers Pre-wax Cleaner and Mothers Sealer and Glaze…Meguiars 205 ultra Finishing Polish….Optimum Polish….Optimum Poli-Seal.and.. BlackFire Wet Diamond Polish. The BlackFire Polish is new to me and I have read good things about it and the rest I have accumulated here and there.
I will rely on your expert judgement.
Thanks for all your help.
I’d probably use either the Optimum Polish or Megs 205 for the polishing stages. Megs will go quicker, but maybe you can do a few test sections between the two polishes and see what you like. After that, then proceed with your EZ Creme and Blackfire applications preferrably applying by machine with your soft finishing pads.
Thanks Todd. IF..the weather ever clears and I get this done, I’ll post to let you know how things came out. AND..thanks again for taking the time to help.
Thanks for your suggestions and I am not challenging them but I would like to know what went into your choices of Optimum Polish or Meg 205? Between the two I would probably use Optimum because I am more used to it. I would have guessed you would have come up with the BlackFire Polish since it seems to be so well thought of on the forum, although I have indeed had good luck with the Optimum. Was it ease of use, better results, the kind of car (paint) I am working on etc,etc. Just trying to learn all the nuances of the different products out there and you would know.
I have never used the Blackfire polish, nor have I received feedback from other pro detailers about it…therefore I can’t readily recommend it (or any other product that I have no experience with). It may be good, but I can only make recommendations based on practical experience.
Both Optimum and Megs are great products…easy to use, high level of performance, etc. And if these cars are already in good condition, both of these polishes would be perfect for a simple one-step system.
[…] im actually kinda scared to handle it too much, lol. should have seen how long it took me to cut open the cardboard wrapping aka "tube" they shipped it in. so far it looks perfect but i only unrolled 2 feet of it. need a big open table to make sure i dont distort anything. also i thought up a cheap simple way to protect the epoxy on the roof while it cures. im going to put a 10×10 canopy over the car's midsection and tape up a plastic barrier on all sides and put a little space heater within the canopy to maintain a steady temp all night while it cures. call it my make-shift booth, lol. im honestly still pretty far from actually doing the project because i need to find a suitable clear coat for the roof, the HOK stuff you recommened is great but man its really pushing my budget on this roof. im not really negligent with my car so i know i'll keep CF parts properly waxed at all times so im willing to sacrifice on the clear coat just a little since the epoxy has UV blockers in it, the clear i eventually use will likely have some sort of UV blockers and to top it off, the sealant i use has UV blockers…Blackfire Wet Diamond Paint Sealant Product Review – Detailed Image […]
Have had a not so good experience with BFWD today and would like your advice please. Was working on my brother’s car (1 year old Kia) and wanted to try out my new Wet-Ice over Fire kit. Steps followed (dual-action polisher used):
1. Car washed and clayed
2. Polished with Menzerna P0203S on a White LC pad
3. Refined with Meznerna P106FF on a Gray LC pad
4. “Polished” with BF Gloss Enhancing Polish on a Gray LC pad – remove Menzerna oils and apply glaze
5. BFWD applied by hand with Meguiar’s yellow foam applicator. Roughly 2 pea sized drops used per section.
6. BFWD applied to entire car and then buffed off with microfibre towel. BFWD had dried to haze and passed the swipe test at this stage.
7. BFWD came off easily with no streaking / hazing visible. All done at 4pm!
Went to inspect the car at 7.30pm and discovered streaking and hazing all over the car. This seemed to be more prominent on the top panels (hood, roof, boot lid) for some reason. Wipedown with clean microfibre towel didn’t seem to help but spread the streaking around. Wipedown with Finish Kare 425 quick detailer and another clean microfibre towel appeared to work initially but streaking and hazing reappeared after 10 minutes. Dissapointing end to a long day’s worth of work!
I was suspicious at the start when I opened the new bottles of BFWD and Gloss Enhancing Polish. Found that the seal on both bottles had already come off when I unscrewed the cap and it looked like the product had penetrated the seal. Seal was stained with product (blue for BFWD’s case). Both products were also very watery even after a good long shake, more so than any paint cleaner / sealant I have ever used to date.
Would appreciate it if you could share your thoughts on this one please Todd. Not sure if this is due to poor application technique (too much product used?) or could it be a bad batch of product? Many thanks Todd!
There’s no way to know for sure, however I’d just suspect that it had something to do with applying it by hand and not getting an even coverage. What you’re describing is similar to what can be seen when applying paste wax and it’s either too much product applied, or an uneven application.
Other than areas where it can’t be reached by machine, I always apply BFWD with the Porter Cable. This ensures an even coverage of product, and I have never experienced any hazing problems with it.
I would imagine that once the car is washed again, it should help to even out the application and get rid of the hazing issue. If you wanted to be completely sure, then re-wash it, and re-apply a light even coating of BFWD with your machine.
I doubt that you received any bad product…
I hope this helps.
I couldn’t find the right Blog to ask this question so I hope you don’t mind. With the Blackfire Wet Diamond Polish, do you work it until you almost can’t see it? Also in selecting a pad is the 2008 and 2010 Ford paints considered “Soft, Hard ” or what?
I believe the Blackfire Gloss Enhancing Polish is a little different than others, and most likely won’t go through the traditional breakdown cycle like you would find in something like Menzerna. You should try two test sections…one you’ll work for a short period of time, and the other work it for a while longer providing the polish remains wet. Wipe the two areas down and inspect. If the quick section looks good, then you know you don’t need to work it in heavily. If it’s hazy compared to the one that you worked for a long time, then you know you’ll need to allow it enough time to break down the abrasives. I haven’t tested that particular product before, but this is how I would approach it to see which system works best.
As for Ford paint, in my experience it’s all over the board in terms of hardness…I’ve seen soft, medium, and hard in their product lineup. As with any car that you don’t know how the paint will react, start with your least aggressive pads first and work your way up as necessary to achieve the desired level of cut.
about the above post., maybe I can help. The blackfire gloss enhancing polish is a paint cleaner and glaze. Without abrasives of any kind in it. So its ideal to work the product wet if working by hand, let haze (fillers) than remove. If working by machine a finishing pad should be used (Gray imo/ again no abrasives) and you can work the product until it “starts” to dissapear. OR you can work it wet. again, let it haze than remove. OR you can work it wet and immediatly remove it without hazing. I guess what i’m getting at is that its pretty foolproof and extremely safe even when using it against the recommended instructions.
my advice to someone would be to just follow the instructions on the back of the bottle. It works very well at chemically cleaning off the paint on a neglected car. For example it will easily remove black water run marks on a white car. It works great at tasks like this, as well as removing old protection and oil’s.
It will not “remove” actual defects in the paint mechanically in any fashion.
Thanks for the insight Michael.
hello todd.i just orderd blackfire paint pre clenser and all finish paint selant..can you pleas tell me step by step to do this right..thank you for your anwser
Do you need to remove old wax before appling Black Dimond?
As with most last step products like this, it’s best to make sure you have a clean surface to work with to ensure proper bonding.
Does Blackfire Wet Diamond apply better by hand with a certain applicator over the other, or does it really matter? I have a lot of Meguiars microfiber applicator pads that I use with most LSPs, but is Blackfire too watery to be used with these types of applicators and should I just stick with foam?
Will using a pant cleaner beforehand, such as P21 paint cleansing lotion or Poorboys Carnuba Blue, reduce the durability and bonding of Blackfire Wet Diamond? I have always used the Pooryboys beforehand before going to my current LSPs, as it has always gave a little extra depth and gloss on my red car. Just wondering if I should use it on not when it comes to Blackfire Wet Diamond
I have only used foam applicators either by hand or machine. While a MF applicator should work, I just feel that the flat foam pad would provide a more consistent thickness of application. However…you’d probably be fine with either method.
It’s possible that either of those products would be compatible with BFWD, but I can’t say I’ve spoken with anybody that has used that particular combination to provide a more definitive answer. A proven winner for paint cleaning / prep / gloss enhancer prior to BFWD application is Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze. Many professional detailers use this combination because it works and looks fantastic!
I have used the Blackfire polish & sealant followed by a coat of carnuba wax. I have the Blackfire Deep Gloss Spray but not sure if I can use it over the carnuba wax. Also, is this product similar to a detail spray or is a sealant?
It’s kind of a blend of a quick detailer and sealant, and can be used over your wax as an upkeep without any issues.
[…] the product line name. Blackfire clay, Blackfire wax etc. Like Wolfgang, Pinnacle etc. Here is a review of BFWD IMHO it is a synthetic that gives the look and feel of a quality carnauba. It's very slick, […]
Hi Todd… many thanks for your help here!
I recently bought a new Jeep Wrangler and was talked into having Xzilon paint
protectant applied by the dealer. Of course the price I paid for that was too much, but
it’s a done deal now, so I want to retain as much of the Xzilon protection as I can,
but I also want to begin using NEW product to continue to protect my paint finish.
Can you tell me if Blackfire WD will be compatible being applied over the newly applied, existing Xzilon sealant? Or is there another sealant which would work better over the Xzilon?
My car will be towed behind a diesel motorhome, so I want as much protection as I can get.
What approach would you advise?
That type of dealer-installed sealant isn’t something you’ll ever see in the highline detailing world, or used by professional detailers. Given this, it will be near impossible to find a conclusive answer on whether or not other products will be compatible with it. Your best bet would be to do a test section on a lower panel, and give it a day or two to see if it causes any type of hazing or smearing (worst case scenario). If your dealer-installed sealant is silicone based, then you may have difficulties getting products to bond.
I have a black 335 which I used Menzerna 106FF directly followed by BFWD. After wipedown, I noticed a lot of streaking on the surface which was confirmed with sliding my finger across the surface. I did not do a IPA wipedown after 106FF. Is this the likely reason for streaking? Secondly, should I now do a IPA wipedown and reapply BFWD to insure proper bonding to the paint?
It could be a bonding issue because of polishing oils still on the surface, it could be too much product being used, or a combination of both. I’d just do a strong wash to see how it looks, and then re-apply another coat of BFWD if you feel it necessary. Fortunately it doesn’t take much time to apply.
I’m going to detail a friends Lexus that has not had much care for a while. Its pearl white paint and luckily no (or not much oxidation) that I could tell. Hope you can provide some recommendations to my questions
1. I was going to start with a clay bar, which bar and grit would you recommend?
2. Should I apply a cream glaze next or is there other prep I should do before applying BFWD or can I go straight to BFWD?
3. I was going to top BFWD with P21S the next day but have you heard of Top of the Line Trade Secret Carnauba wax and is it superior?
If you’re not going to be polishing afterwards, I wouldn’t recommend any clay more aggressive than the fine grade. Using Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze next will provide extra paint cleaning and gloss. It’s not absolutely necessary, but it will definitely make a difference. I have no experience or knowledge of the other wax you referred to, so I can’t make an educated comparison of the two. I hope this helps.
[…] promised to official NW lurker Serg. Here is the Black Fire Wet Diamond sealant we spoke of. https://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P…roduct-review/ __________________ Hey, (plural form of Spanish word for person who is unnaturally intimate […]
Thanks for the feedback. Have you ever tried the Menzerna Power Lock Sealant or Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant? I was wondering how they compare to BFWD?
I don’t use Wolfgang products, so I can’t comment on them. Menzerna Power Lock however is very similar to BFWD in it’s use, look, and durability…
If using the Blackfire product with hand application, will the durability and surface protection be less than if applied by a rotary machine waxer? Will it need to be used more often?
Provided that the surface is prepped the same, I don’t see why it would make a difference in the overall protection level. When doing it by hand however, you don’t get as even of a coverage, which could potentially result in durability variances, but that would probably be minimal at best.
I purchased a bottle of this last year and used it once on my car. It’s been in a cabinet in my garage ever since and today I went to use it again and it’s very watery. I honestly don’t remember it being like this when I used it the first time. I suspect extreme temps above 90* have spoiled it. Am I right?
Bummed out cuz it’s awesome stuff.
I’d give it a thorough shaking, and then pour a little out onto an applicator pad. If it has a consistent color (not separated), then you should be fine. Mine is actually pretty liquid as well.
Is compination ok.
The Detail Shoppe Wet glaze 2.0
Blackfire Wet Diamond
Blackfire Wet Diamond
The Detail Shoppe Wet glaze 2.0
I’m not familiar with those products, so I can’t offer up any advice on using them together with Blackfire Wet Diamond.
Prima Amigo or Autoglym SRP
Blackfire Wet Diamond
Blackfire Wet Diamond
What do you think this oppinion of somebody on a European forum
He say from DW:
“All Finish Paint Protection shouldn’t have a wax put on top of it unless it’s Midnight Sun; it won’t bond, hence you;re really just wasting wax and your time! ”
Is this true? When I ask about that to him he sayed:
“Well in the case of Blackfire, I’m confident I’m correct; it uses an unusual polymer type and when All Finish Paint Protection was launched, one of the key issues was that ‘conventional’ waxes wouldn’t bond to it. Hence Midnight Sun, which is polymer-rich, was developed. ”
Who is right?
Always enjoy reading your reviews and watching your fantastic works! Upon reading this article I have a question about the durability of sealant vs. sealant + carnauba: In general, is it possible that coating a layer of carnauba on top of the sealant would adversely shorten the length of sealant’s protection? What I am thinking is since the wax is sticking to the sealant would it somehow “strip” the sealant off when the wax starts to wear out and cause the sealant to wear out faster than it normally would? If this question has to be handled with specific products then what’s your thought on this Blackfire (Wet Diamond vs. Wet Diamond + Midnight Sun)?
Any inputs would be greatly appreciated!
Todd, Great site and love your articles. I have been “detailing” my cars for some time now but have always used off the shelf products and applied them by hand. Since catching on to this site i have purchased some products and will soon jump into using a machine for future care of my car. I recently washed (the proper way) , clayed, and polished (by hand) using Mequiars Ultimate Polish. I followed that with an IPA wipe down and then applied BFWD. I was definitely pleased with the gloss and slickness of the finish however i didn’t really see much improvement with regard to swirls and fine scratches. My paint is in pretty good condition but definitely could use some minor correction. Any suggestions on a polish or glaze that could be applied by hand that would yield better results? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Removing swirls by hand can be a challenging task to say the least. If you have softer paint (Japanese cars for instance), then it might not be too bad and a product like Sonax Nano Tech Paint Cleaner would work pretty well. If you have harder paint however (most German cars), then you’d have to step up to a heavy cut compound like Meguiar’s M105, and follow it with M205 to make much of a difference.
Thanks for the reply Todd. Where would GM paint fall with regard to hardness? I have an
06 Buick Lucerne CXL maroon metallic paint. Would the megs 105/205 combo
be the products of choice for both hand and machine application. Thanks again for your help!
GM is all across the board from soft to very hard. Most of what I have seen however is in the medium to medium-hard range. I’ve never worked on a Lucerne so I couldn’t say for sure. I would imagine however that 105/205 would be a good choice for this. If you feel that you need a finer finish afterwards, then following it up by hand with an AIO like Blacklight or Sonax NTPC might be in order.
Do you have comment on this:
“All Finish Paint Protection shouldn’t have a wax put on top of it unless it’s Midnight Sun; it won’t bond, hence you;re really just wasting wax and your time! ”
Todd, the blue pad you used here was a 5.5″ or a 6.5″?
That’s a 6.5″ pad…
That Corvette’s hood is huge. The 6.5” pad looked so small on it!
From your experience which size pad (6.5” or 5.5”) will generate less vibrations when polishing with a 7424 at higher speed? Also, for a 6.5” pad, would the size of the backing plate (5” vs. 6”) make any difference in vibration?
The reason why I asked is because I used a 4-3/4” flexible backing plate with my older 6” LC pads and they felt very nicely on the 7424. But those 6” LC pads are no longer available and now I have to choose between the 6.5” and 5.5” for my main applications.
If using foam pads, I’d definitely recommend using the 5.5″ pads with the 5.25″ backing plates. It’s smoother, and the machine will bog less with the smaller pads. If you were to use the 6.5″ pads, you’ll want to use the larger backing plate. It shouldn’t make a difference in vibration, but the smaller backing plate on the big pads will reduce cut.
I knew you got the answers! Thanks Todd. You’re the BEST!
hi i have MEGUIRS Swirl X , blackfire wet diamond all polish and collinite 845 with me
is it ok if i use swiril X remover one day
blackfire wet diamond… on another day
and collinite 845 on above all
is it worth i mean am i right in sequence
i dont have any machine will be applying with hand is that ok
but have MICROFIBER Btowels for buffinng
Do you have the Blackfire polish, or the Wet Diamond Sealant? If it’s the polish, then you could use it after Swirl X, but I’d make comparisons on the two to see if one works better than the other, or if there’s even a need to use the Blackfire after the SwirlX. If you have Blackfire Wet Diamond (sealant), then you’d be apply two sealants (Wet Diamond and 845). So if it’s Wet Diamond that you have, then you’ll want to use either it OR the 845…not both.
Great info, and OUTSTANDING pics. I haven’t seen any with that much detail and clarity yet. It really showcases your INCREDIBLE work. I just had a couple questions for you.
During the buffing/polishing process, do you clean you foam pads with a brush or some other type of tool to keep build-up to a minimum?
Do you clean your foam pads with a cleaning solution, if at all?
I regularly clean out the pads with compressed air, and frequently switch to fresh pads as well. When cleaning them at the end of the day, I’ll use a strong APC…
First and foremost thank you in advance.
I recently bought a 2009 BMW 128 jet black without knowing the nightmare it would be for me to keep it looking swirl and scratch free. I did manage to remove swirls and tiny tiny scratches but failed to remove medium scratches as well as what i think is water marks in some areas or it could be acid rain. These medium scratches seem to be only on clear coat, as i read BMW has a thick clear coat.
I used Porter Cable XP set between 5-6 with moderate pressure. lake country regular orange and yellow pads with Menzerna Power Finish Polish. I am doing 20 inch by 20 with six horizontal and vertical passes with a 50 % overlap.
My question is basically what other product would you recommend to remove those water stains and medium scratches, is it the polish or the pads? or the technique am using?
Scratches and water spot etching can be much deeper than you think at times. I work on plenty of cars where water spot etching is too deep to safely remove. Sure, there may be plenty of clear coat, but you can only remove so much before you risk the integrity of the UV protection it offers.
Here are a couple of articles you may want to look at for greater correction using a D/A polisher: How to use a D/A and rotary buffer properly (video). And the Meguiar’s MF Correction System Tutorial
I just finished a detailing marathon on my 07 NBP TL-S. It only took about 18 hours but im left with a beautiful car and some sore muscles! I have a question regarding application with Blackfire Wet Diamond. I let all my pads soak in a bucket of Snappy and as I was washing them out by hand afterwards I noticed a ton of product coming out of the Blue pad I used for the BFWD. It is a 5.5″ pad and this is its first use. I was getting a little product coming out as I was massaging it with my hand and thumbs but when i was squeezing it dry I got a ton of product out of the pad. I mean I probably easily got 1 to 1.5oz of product out of the pad. This tells me I may have used too much product to begin with but it sure didnt seem like it while I was applying. Would I be better off applying by hand with a small handheld pad or MF towel? Are there any pads I can use with the 7424XP that are only about 3/4-1″ thick as opposed to 1.5-2″ thick? I feel like if I used something thinner the product couldnt soak up into the pad so much. Thanks in advance for your help!
It sounds like you used way too much product! Just a couple of small drops will cover a very large area, and as you go the product will build up on the pad a bit…meaning you’ll need to use even less product at the end as you did at the start. Applying by machine is quicker, and you’ll get a more uniform coating of product. The residue might not completely clean out of the pad, so you’ll probably want to mark that one specifically for its use.
Thanks Todd. I figured I was using too much. I just sold the TL today and im buying an 08 RL A-Spec NBP this weekend so ill get to do it all over again really soon and see how it goes next time! Thanks again!
Have been a BFWD guy since reading your post and have been very pleased with it. But after reading about the CG Blacklight would like to get your feedback and which is better. I always want to use the best products to give my customers the best results for their vehicles. So should I switch to the Blacklight or stay with Wet Diamond? What is your ‘go to’ sealant?
What other caranauba wax would you recommend to go alone with the Blackfire Wet Diamond on a budget.
Thanks in advance.
Blackfire Wet Diamond is my go to product for a final protectant. I have applied the recommended carnauba wax as part of the wet ice over fire process suggested by Blackfire but I experienced less slickness and no real noticeable difference in shine. The issue with this process is that I usually detail a car the same day and I would have to go back the next day to apply the wax which I dont think is necessary. On my vehicles I use Blackfire Deep Gloss spray w/polycharger between applications of Wet Diamond and it makes the vehicle shine like the day it was detailed. A little goes a long way. Interesting story, about a month ago I detailed a customers dark red Porsche Cayenne GTS. I used Wet Diamond after clay barring and polishing and he could not believe the results. He walked over to touch the finish and his 5 year old son yelled, “Daddy ,dont touch your car, the paint is still wet”.
What an informative page you have! I recently bought a used Acura TSX and it is black. The car is beautiful, but you can see every little imperfection in the paint and it drives me crazy! My car does have some deeper scratches that according to the dealer cannot be buffed out.
If I did put the Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection on it, is there anything I could put on to sort of fill in the scratches so they are black also? I know I won’t even attempt to use touch up paint – that would make it look worse for sure. The scratches are thin lines, but enough that I would like to fill them in if possible. Or will the beautiful wet-shine from Blackfire Wet Diamond be enough?
And is the “Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection” what I want to buy? THANK YOU!
your opinion on fw1 wax. can you use this after Blackfire Wet Diamond
I’ve never heard of it, let alone tried it. It may or may not bond well with BFWD…
when applying blackfire wet diamond all finish paint protection to blue finishing pad using porter cable. Do you want to prime the pad first or just put the two dime sized drops on dry pad? Thank you
There’s no need to prime the pad…
how can i buy the products you use in canada
[…] liked bfwd on my silver metalic car. Although it is not gray, i believe it will turn out great. Blackfire Wet Diamond Paint Sealant Product Review – Detailed Image It's silver, but a darker silver. If your car is not a dark grey, i think it will look really […]
[…] liked bfwd on my silver metalic car. Although it is not gray, i believe it will turn out great. Blackfire Wet Diamond Paint Sealant Product Review – Detailed Image Review from Pro Todd Cooperider (not my car). "Silver Grey". If your car is not a dark […]
Any idea how long the product must sit/haze before buffing off?
[…] 697 Check out this M3… that's the wettest deepest silver I've ever seen. Blackfire Wet Diamond Paint Sealant Product Review – Detailed Image […]
Hello, I have a red Nissan 370 Z with a clear bra (a 3M product). Can I use Blackfire Wet Diamond on it/ How about wax also? I will be applying it by hand.
Thank you, Peter
How does your product resist bug stains? After a juicy clear one sits on it for a day?
Hi Todd, just wanted to know when applying a sealant, should u use a foam pad only, or is terry cloth ok to use? Thanks. enjoy reading ur posts.
I pick up my new car next week which is a metallic orange color. I am not paying the car dealers for paint protection. So using your products what is the best way to go to protect the car…..
My thoughts would be…..wash…..clay……sealant …..wax……….
Would appreciate any comments please
After a M105/205 polish, would it be wise to wash with dishwash type soap to strip oils prior to Blackfire Wet Diamond Paint Sealant or would a regular wash and a EZ creme glaze be good enough for prep for BWDS. Thanks!
I just finished putting Blackfire Wet Diamond Paint Sealer on my truck and didn’t know you had to wait to let it cure. After I finished the entire truck, I put a coat of Blackfire Midnight Sun Wax on it immediately. Will this destroy the paint sealer? Should I strip the wax off and start over? Thank you for any advice you can give.
I used the Blackfire Wet Diamond Paint Sealant for the first time and WOW it’s the best shine I’ve seen on a one-coat product.
Question: How is the durability in a commercial car wash? Some of us here in the frozen tundra of Minnesnowda must use them during the winter. Second, well two coats provide more protection?
Hi there, Having read your statements on the Blackfire sealant and I want to apply it to my Triump Stag. I use Meguire’s NXT generation tech wax 2.0. Will the sealant work ok on top of this? I have looked for the Blackfire polishes without success. I am in Queensland Australia. I would appreciate your advise.
Hi Todd, Thanks for all that you do and also for your time providing advice! I’m a newbie to auto detailing but from research/vids/reviews I’m all in on Blackfire (BF) products.
I purchased a 2013 Honda Accord Sport with a Basque Red color. I’ve ordered a great deal of BF products to detail my car and plan on buying a Griot 6″ Orbital Polisher. For a new car, It has a lot of contaminates on it and had to order a BF Clay Bar/Lubricant to use after another brand didn’t do what I expected. Otherwise, the paint looks great though I’ve seen some slight water marks.
Question: Would using the BF products in this manner be correct?
1. Washed with Dawn/BF shampoo. Clay with BF Poly II
2. Polish with BF Total Polish & Seal
3. Apply BLACKFIRE Crystal Seal or BF Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection
4. Apply BF BlackICE Hybrid Montan Sealant Wax (Since it has the Basque Red color) I did buy the BF
Midnight Sun Ivory Carnauba Paste Wax to try later.
5. Maintain it with Wet Diamond Polymer Spray after a couple of days
Will learn to use the GG Orbital 6″ Polisher from training vids but would like advice on which type of pads (Brand/color/function) I need to use. Your assistance is VERY APPRECIATED!!!!!
Hi….Can you tell me how the blackfire compares in gloss/shine and also life expectancy to the ceramic/silicon based products like G2, Permanon, etc? Also, Can any of those be applied over the black ice?
thanks for your assistance
How does Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection compare to Klasse AIO + Klasse Sealant? I’ve been using Klasse since 2004 and my supply is just about to run out. I’m looking to try the latest and greatest.
Just got mine today and did my cts coupe black, love it. Would recomend it to everyone.
I have a ascidian black metallic Mercedes ML350. Have read the reviews on Blackfire Wet Diamond Paint Sealant , and can’t wait to use it. I have some 3M machine glaze on hand, but am afraid to use it and will order and wait for the BLWD product. Is it superior to the Wolfgang line, I’ve read it last longer?
I understand I need to polish first, becusse BFWD is a sealer. Which polish would you recommend? I have a lot of swirl makes.
After polishing does a sealant replace the depth of clear coat that was removed during polishing? And can you continue to add depth by adding several layers of sealant?
Great site. I’m getting a silver met new vehichle and wondering if I only need to wash with something like Dawn before applying bfwd.Your advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance,PS the car is on order and being built soon so everything will be fresh.
I bought a bottle of BFWD a while ago and went to use it and it was basically turned to water! First is this normal and how would I get it back to the original consistency? I have been very pleased with the results I get with this product. Do I need to replace or is there a process to return it to original condition? Thanks for your help!
First of all,
THANK YOU for your patience and dedication in answering all these questions. I read at least 100 of them, and learned a lot about you. You are knowledgeable, kind, and strong.
My question is this.
Should you apply a quality wax before you apply the BFWD, so that it will lock in the desired look/shine? I have a 2015 Accord – champagne metallic gold – that I washed, clayed, and polished with Meguiar’s M205 polish. It looks great. Now I want to take the next step and wax and seal it, but I don’t know what order to do it in. Since the sealant protection last longer than the wax protection, it makes sense to me to wax first, then seal. Your thoughts please!
Two more question.
Should I give the car an IPA rub down before I do the next step – the car is in the garage and it may be a few days before I do the next step. I have to find out if I can get the BFWD locally.
I have a 10 inch random orbital buffer. should I use it or just apply the BFWD by hand.
Thank you for your answers!!!
Hi Todd, I still have a half bottle of BFWD since 2012 and now the condition is quite dilute (not in origin condition). The question is : I still could use this stuff and the still have the same quality as origin one? After applying BFWD, could I apply Optimum Car Wax spray?
Dear Todd, my colleague telp me that BFWD is not suitable for white car. Please advise the best sealant for white one. Thanks
Teddy – The Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection will work great on a white car. This is one of my favorite sealants, no matter the color paint. I will add gloss, depth, and give you 3-4 months of protection. If you have any other questions please do not hesitate to contact us here: https://www.detailedimage.com/Contact/
If the sealant has been stored at room temperature and out of direct sunlight, it will generally last for about 4-5 years from the date manufactured. Assuming it has been stored properly, after 4-5 years the product will slowly start to deteriorate. If you have any concerns about your product I recommend you shake it vigorously for a minimum of 1-2 minutes. After you shake the product vigorously, the formula should look uniform in both color and consistency. If the product looks good, I would test it on an inconspicuous area of your car and inspect the results before proceeding any further. If the product is not performing as expected, it may be time to replace it. For application, after using the BFWD, wait an hour and you can top it with the Optimum Car Wax.
Hi Reece, thanks for your helpful advice. Again, need your advise. I have CX5 2014 white. I will prep the paint first prior to apply BFWD with hand application and with simpliest way. Should I :
1. Clay or using paint cleaner (which one is the best and the simpliest way?), then
2. Apply polish (I have new Meg Deep Crystal Polish. But, according to Meg, this polish specially for dark color. Could I use this to my white car? Or I have to use another one if polish stage is required before BFWD?)
If the polish stage is required, how long I could apply BFWD after polish? Shall I wash the car first before apply BFWD after polish stage.
Again, thank you in advance for your advice. Regards
Teddy – If you are planning on polishing, you are going to have to clay beforehand. Stick with using a clay bar or something like the Nanoskin Autoscrub Pad to help remove embedded contamination, prepping the paint for polishing. For the Deep Crystal, I personally have not used this polish, but I looked it up online. This can be used on any color paint. It seems like a lighter polish as well, so I would use it with something like the Lake Country white pad, or something similar (light correction or cut). If you have any other questions please do not hesitate to contact us here: https://www.detailedimage.com/Contact/.
Hi Reece, another Question: Should l clay or using Meg Scratch-X/Swirls-X first prior to polish? Thanks Reece
I purchased a vehicle that has recently been painted. Will it be safe to use Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection on it ?
Meet me again.
I just coated my white CX-5 with Meg M688. Someone told me is no need to apply sealant after coating in next some weeks for additonal protection and more wet-look. I have Black Fire Wet Diamond sealant. Could I use this sealant to make the durability longer and booster the coating? If could, this sealant add the shine and wet-look of the paint?
I am new to this and would like suggestion for different wax product after applying wet and waiting for 8 hours. My condition is that I want to apply it quickly using hands, both wet and wax after 8 hours. Some wax solutions I feel leave lot of residue.
DJ – Thank you for leaving a comment! When applying protection, you first have to figure out what type you would like to apply. I see you mention wanting a wax, but want something that you can apply to the paint while it is still wet. In this case I would not recommend a wax, but a spray on, rinse off sealant. Something like the P&S Bead Maker Paint Protectant or Gyeon WetCoat are much better options there. These you can spray onto the surface after washing (while wet) and dry with a drying towel to finish. If you would prefer to apply a traditional wax, something like the Jescar Color Lock is a good option. This one you would apply to a clean, dry surface using an applicator pad. Let it haze up and wipe away the residue with a clean microfiber towel. Hope that helps and if you have any other questions feel free to reach out via the contact us form here: https://www.detailedimage.com/Contact/
Thanks Reece for the details. So I want to do a quick wash with a quick wax and a quick sealant, ideally. I think you can guess the theme of quickness I am going for here! So currently I have chemical guy spray on shine which I use right after cleaning and drying so the surface is not super dry but not wet-wet. I guess I want a quick way to clean, put protection and quick seal it for longevity. I have a metallic black paint on an audi. I see swirl marks all over the car even though I wash it manually myself. Probably need to change towels and scrubbing sponge more often.. 🙂
I would recommend taking a look at this article for tips for washing and drying (https://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-Pro/how-to-properly-wash-and-dry-a-car/). For protection, if you want something quick, it generally will not be extremely durable, so think more of a few weeks to a few months worth of protection. The Beadmaker or Gyeon WetCoat mentioned before will work great!
Thanks Reece, let me at least start with 2 bucket system! This was really helpful.