Product Review: Meguiar’s DA Microfiber Correction Systemby Todd Cooperider
Meguiar’s is continually adding new items to their extensive lineup of professional detailing products, and new for 2011 is their highly anticipated DA Microfiber Correction System. This new system was soft-launched at the SEMA Show in Las Vegas this past fall, but very few details have been released up until now. They have kept detailers and detailing enthusiasts on the edges of their seats for months by teasing with information on their website, and finally after extensive development and testing processes, the official release is now upon us.
Before I go into details about the new system, let me give you some background about my involvement in the testing of the DA Microfiber System. Back in October of 2010, I was contacted by detailing legend Kevin Brown about being a part of a pre-production development team for Meguiar’s for a new product they had been working on for the better part of two years. He said that we would be a part of an elite group of detailers around the U.S. (approximately 28 of us) and other parts of the world, and they would be looking to us to put the product through its paces and provide feedback on our findings. A day or two later we were part of a large conference call directly with Jason Rose, who is the Field Marketing Manager for Professional Products at Meguiar’s. After about an hour on our conference call, we all had a good idea of what the products were, what they were intended for, and what forms of testing that would be required. While they had already completed plenty of testing and development of the new system in-house, they wanted to get it in the hands of the real-world professional detailing community to see how it worked for us. Companies will design and test for a specific application in mind, but the end user may (and often does) find different ways to use it based on their own needs. If there were any weaknesses in the system they wanted to know about it…and we were just the group of detailers that could find them if they existed!
The plan then was to do a soft-launch at the SEMA show (it would be in a showcase, but no information was provided otherwise), and then we would receive our kits immediately afterward.
While at the SEMA Show, a group of us detailers that were a part of the pre-product development team were invited out to a dinner with the big dogs at Meguiar’s. It was truly a who’s-who of the highline professional detailing community including the likes of Todd Helme, Bryan Burnworth, Bob Willis, Richie Carbone, and Kevin Brown. Here’s the cool part though…out of all of the people in attendance, your authors of the DI Ask A Pro Blog by far outnumbered everybody else (how’s that for credibility, eh?). At the dinner representing Detailed Image were DJ Mayo, Greg Nichols, Chad “Rasky” Raskovich, and myself. Ivan Rajic was also a part of the development team, but did not attend the show (you’ve gotta be there next year buddy). It was really a great opportunity to get all of us together at one table for the evening, and despite the fact that we discussed a lot of business, we all had an absolutely fantastic time…thanks Meguiar’s!
Once we returned from SEMA, we received our testing kits and it was time to give it a try!
What is the Meguiar’s DA Microfiber Correction System?
This new system is a revolutionary concept of pad technology, and as the name indicates…the polishing surface of the pads are made out of microfiber! There are two different pads; a compounding pad (burgundy backing foam) and a finishing pad (softer, black backing foam). The microfiber is exactly the same on the two pads, whereas the backing foam’s density differs on each. The compounding pad utilizes a much more dense foam to allow much higher pressures to be utilized to achieve greater correction. The pads are available in 3.37″, 5.5″, and 6.25″ sizes. As for the polishing liquids, these were actually developed after the pads, and the chemists at Meguiar’s were given the task of developing compounds and polishes specifically to work in conjunction with the microfiber pads. With that, you have the D300 DA Compound and the D301 DA Finishing Wax. Once again as the name says, this system is designed to work exclusively on a Dual Action (DA) polisher…not a rotary.
What application was the DA Microfiber System designed for?
This system was designed for light to moderate defect removal on OEM paint (many times aftermarket paint…especially fresh…isn’t DA friendly!). Meguiar’s had the mobile detailer (more on that later), and the detailing shops specializing in volume-based paint rejuvenation in mind during the development process. The system needed to be capable of significant correction capabilities, with long working times of the polishes, and be user-friendly at the same time. When their chemists developed the Compound and Finishing Wax, their goal was to get great results, easy on and off, and without being finicky to use (many polishing products out there have steep learning curves and can be finicky to use). So if this new technology is only designed for light to moderate defect removal, does that mean that it’s not capable of correcting severe defects? Read on…
How to use the Meguiar’s DA Microfiber Correction System
Now that you’ve gotten some background on the development process of this exciting new system, and what it is intended for, let’s take a closer look at how to use it to get best results.
First of all, you need to forget what you’ve known up until now about DA polishing as it relates to speed. Faster isn’t always better, and that’s exactly the case with these new products. To quote Jason Rose, “It’s a slow-down-to-work-faster approach”. You want to slow down the speed of the machine, and your arm movement speed as well to get the best results. Meguiar’s recommends a DA speed of 4800 opm for the compounding stage, and 2800-3800 opm for the finishing stage.
Let’s take a look at the process as I work on this 1992 Ferrari 512 TR. It had moderate to heavy defects, and my goal was to achieve as high of a level of correction as I safely could on this single stage paint.
1. Prime the pad! Just like with the Meguiar’s M105 system, the new DA Microfiber system requires a thorough and even priming of the pad with your compound / polish to achieve greatest results. You want to get a complete coverage of the compound or polish onto the microfiber surface without it being “drenched” in product. In this photo below you can see how I first apply the D300 compound to the pad to start the priming process.
As you can tell from the photos below, this particular cutting disc has been used several times before on single stage red paint. Brand new pads are white.
Now that you’ve applied your compound or polish onto the microfiber pad, use your (clean) hand to completely work the product into the fibers. If you see some bare spots once you’re done, then add a little more product to those areas and work it in again until completely covered. If you apply too much product and the pad seems to be overly saturated, then clean some of it off either with a microfiber towel or blow it with compressed air.
Now that your pad is primed, it should look a bit like this.
2. Add a small drop or two of product directly to the pad. Either too much or too little product can negatively affect your results, but you will quickly learn how much is just enough.
3. Lightly spread the polish around on your working surface. You can do this either with the machine on a slow speed, or off. For me, I simply spread it around quickly with the machine off before I get started.
4. Set your speed accordingly. On the PC7424XP, I find that a speed of about 4.5 works great. Remember, you’re using lower speeds even for the compounding stage than what you might be used to.
5. During the compounding stage, you want to use the same basic overlapping technique as you would with any other product on the DA (left-right, then up-down overlapping each pass 50%). Use slower arm movement than you normally would, and for heavier correction you will use a lot more downward pressure than is normal. You’ll need to experiment a little with the amount of pressure required depending on the paint type. Harder paints or heavier defects will require more pressure to achieve the desired level of correction. Don’t “short cycle” this application. The compound needs to be worked in thoroughly with multiple passes to a fine, thin residue. The compound has long work times if necessary, and you should find the residue afterwards to remove very easily from the surface. If you need to make an additional application to further remove defects, you can lightly mist the working surface with water, and then re-work the area without applying more compound. The water will help to re-activate the compound in the pad and on the surface, and it also helps to keep the pad cleaner as well.
6. Clean your pads often! To allow the microfiber pads to work to their full potential, you will need to clean them out often to remove spent compound and paint/clearcoat. I will typically blow them out with compressed air after each panel. You could use other methods, but in my experience compressed air is a must-have when using this system!
Here are a few photos of what the paint looked like before compounding:
And after! Does this answer your question about whether the new system can tackle serious defects?
Tips on using the Meguiar’s DA Microfiber Correction System
- D300 Compound: Slow down to work faster! Slower machine speeds and slower arm speeds will provide better results.
- D301 Finishing Wax: Even slower machine speeds!
- Be sure to use backing plates with short hook & loop material (most are). Tall hook & loop can cause higher operating temperatures, which could lead to premature pad failure.
- Do not apply the DA Compound to a hot surface.
- After evenly priming the pad, only a small amount of product is needed. If you find it difficult to remove the compound residue, then you’ve used too much.
- The Finishing Wax is very simple to use. It is a very mild finishing polish, with a durable wax in the mix (polymer and carnauba blend).
- If the paint you’re working with requires an intermediate step, try M205 with a foam finishing pad after the Compound and before the Finishing Wax.
- Supplemental wetting agents (mist of water) can help during the compounding stage, but are not recommended for the Finishing Wax stage.
- DA haze can be experienced with some paints using this system. There are a number of potential contributing factors; the two most notable are the top-coat hardness of the paint itself and a loaded or dirty disc. If you get severe and persistent D/A hazing on a car, chances are you have a soft paint or a refinished panel (doesn’t matter how long ago.) This is especially true if you experience DA hazing with the second step DA Finishing Wax and the DA Finishing Disc. Some paints simply don’t like the DA action, no matter what product or pad you use (for example refinished paint tends to not like DA polishing in general).
I started using this new system immediately upon arrival, and for the past 3 months I have used the compounding system exclusively (with the exception of some 4″ spot pad compounding on the rotary), regardless of paint type, level of defects, hardness, etc. I have used it on single stage paint, clear coat systems, incredibly hard paint (Lamborghini), very soft paint, and I have even used it to clear up sanding marks! While Meguiar’s may not have designed it for really heavy defects, it sure is capable of fixing them. Is this a game-changing technology? In my professional opinion it certainly is. Is it going to be the perfect solution for every detailer and every paint type? No it isn’t…but then again, show me ANY product that is perfect for every situation. There are always limitations.
One important note that I should make on this new DA system is that it was also designed to achieve rotary-like correction capability (or better) on a dual-action polisher. A rotary polisher requires a very high level of skill and experience to do correctly without the safety issues of burning edges and creating swirls and holograms. The myth is that if you want to do heavy paint correction you need to use a rotary. This myth is wrong with today’s pad and polish technologies and techniques. I network with many of the top highline detailers in the country, and most of us are doing our heavy correction and compounding with the dual-action polisher, not the rotary!
Another big plus for this new system is that on the compounding stage in particular, you can use just one or two pads for the entire car if you’re able to regularly clean it out with compressed air or by brushing. And given the fact that these pads take up much less space (very thin) than traditional foam pads, it will be a huge plus for mobile detailers since they won’t have to carry boxes full of different compounding pads. I recently jumped on an airplane for a detailing trip, and these pads were priceless. I obviously had little room in my carrying case for all of my equipment, and I just brought a few DA Microfiber pads and I was all set.
I also took a little time to do some comparisons with other products on the market just to see how this new system stacked up. For all-out correction capability, I still find that the Surbuf pad teamed up with M105 compound has the edge in cut. Having said that though, the Surbuf pad doesn’t finish down as well as the Microfiber pad (nor is it as safe IMO), so it just depends on what your needs are. I’ve also successfully used M105 with the new Microfiber compounding pad with great results. It has the slightest edge over D300 in terms of overall cut, but runs hotter, dusts more, and isn’t as easy to remove from the surface.
As for the Finishing Wax, I think some people may still want to use their sealant of choice instead, so they will opt for another finishing polish that doesn’t include wax. That is fine, and I have done that a lot myself (D300/Microfiber pad for compounding, followed by a black foam finishing pad with Menzerna 106FA on the rotary). I do however, think that the Finishing Wax will be a huge hit for single step polishing, so you get the bonus flexibility in the product. I have used it for this purpose quite a few times, and have been extremely happy with the results and ease of use. And since it polishes and waxes in one step, that will save a tremendous amount of time since you won’t need to do yet another process or two afterwards. If I had a volume detailing business that focused on the more quick details, I would knock it out of the park with the Meguiar’s Finish Wax when performing one-step polishes.
I’ve said a lot of good things about this new product / technology, so it’s only fair to point out some areas that might be of a concern to some people.
- You really need to have access to compressed air when working with the compounding system in particular if you want to get the best results.
- When using compressed air, you create a tremendous amount of dust when cleaning out the pads. After one single stage red Ferrari, my entire work area was totally covered in red compounding dust from blowing out the pads.
- On some paint systems (aftermarket or soft), finishing with a rotary may be your best bet. This is not a knock against the MF / Finishing Wax, because in each case where I couldn’t get it to finish down, I tried other products on the PC and couldn’t get them to finish down either! You know that when Optimum Poli-Seal and a blue pad mars the finish…you’re dealing with some seriously finicky soft paint!
- The system works too well, and when general enthusiasts start to get the same results as what we professional can get, then we might be out of a job!
Well there you have it…the good, the bad, and everything in between. I’ve put more testing into this new product than perhaps anything else out there, and working with Meguiar’s directly in the pre-production development has been a great experience. They were very receptive to all of our questions and concerns, and in the end I am quite pleased to have been part of the process.
Meguiar’s has developed game-changing technology here; particularly on the compounding side of the equation. Heavy defect removal, ease of use, and with the relative safety of using a dual action polisher is a winner in my book!
Meguiar’s DA Microfiber Correction System:
- D300 DA Microfiber Correction Compound
- DA Microfiber Cutting Disc
- D301 DA Microfiber Finishing Wax
- DA Microfiber Finishing Disc
- Meguiar’s 5″ DA Backing Plate
- Meguiar’s 6″ DA Backing Plate
- 5″ DA Microfiber Correction System Starter Kit
- 6″ DA Microfiber Correction System Starter Kit
Is this system worth replacing the M105/M205? I like the no dusting and splatter part. Also, after finishing with the D301 could I top with my choice of carnauba wax (nattys blue) on my black vette or would that be overdoing it a bit?
This would be an addition to…not a replacement for the 105/205 system. Depending on the car, type of paint, level of defects you may find yourself using one system over the other, or a combination of them. Also there would be no need to top the D301 with anything else, and there could even be a bonding issue of putting a wax over a wax.
Is the haze from DA polishers on soft paint common with foam pads as well?
Not all, but yes. I have worked on quite a few very soft paint systems that simply didn’t like the action of the DA polisher…regardless of what type of finishing pad or polish that was used. Pure black paints (non-metallic) seem to be the most finicky.
Well I’ve been on the fence about getting a rotary, but now I think I’ll take the leap so I can have the option in my arsenal. Have you used or recommend anything other than a Makita? The new Flex rotary or their lightweight circular both look user friendly especially for beginners.
I couldn’t imagine NOT having both tools in my arsenal because you never know what you’re going to need for the job! At least for now, the Makita is perhaps the best bang for the buck. The new Flex looks good as well, but not everybody will want to step up to such a high price…especially beginners.
Can you use the 6″ system on the Flex 3401?
Nevermind, I saw the Flex with the pads in the Meguiars Youtube video ad for the system
Great instructions and review Todd!
Do I need to sell my unused Makita, LC pads and polish etc. that I bought to mimic your correction on the Acura TL NBP?
I was just waiting for warm weather, but this system sounds safer and easier with less learning curve.
Can I equal the correction you did on the NBP with the Megs system? My NBP that i bought used is in pretty rough shape.
I wouldn’t do that simply because the Acura NBP paint likes the action of the rotary on the finishing stage versus the D/A. This new system would be great on the compounding stage for your Acura followed by the rotary for finishing. But unless you want to also buy a PC with all the gear and have both systems, then just stick with your rotary.
I have the PC as well. Would you suggest going with the PC and Megs over the rotary method you used in the article? and then finish with the rotary?
Good deal then. Yes, I’d recommend the PC with the new Megs Cutting Disc and D300 for compounding, and then the rotary teamed up with something like a black pad and 106FA for finishing. Especially if you’re relatively new to it, you will achieve a much greater level of cut doing it this way than you would with a rotary.
Fantastic, informative review of these new products. My only frustration with the Meg’s 105/205 combo is that sometimes I find 205 is not abrasive enough to remove light haze/defects from the 105 process. Going to a softer pad and 105 doesn’t offer any improvement. In these moments, like on heavily swirled black Mustangs, I always wished I had a product that is inbetween 105 & 205. Do you feel the same with these new products?
Just as with what you’re referring to on the 105/205 system, it just depends on the paint. When I find that being the case after 105, I’ll typically grab for the rotary and 106FA as it usually takes care of the issue.
Great Review Todd!
I had to go back and read it again because I enjoyed it so much. I never even thought of adding in the whole SEMA story or the mass conference call! 🙂
Ha…thanks buddy. I immediately thought that the background part of it would add a certain something to the article, and based on your feedback, I’m glad that I did!
very cost effective, soft mit for your car. It is easy to use and soft on your fiisnh. I use a rougher one on the wheels and rims, but this one is perfect for the fiisnh of your car. Use zymol car wash with it and you’ll get a terrific shine.
How would using the Megs D300 (DA) and finishing with the Menz PO85 (rotary) work on the NBP?
I noticed that you stated that the Surbuf pads are unsafe. Would you mind going a little bit further in depth on the reason as to why?
Thanks a bunch,
I didn’t say that they were unsafe…I said that the Megs Cutting Discs were safer. The Surbuf pad is quite aggressive, and in the wrong hands it does have the ability to burn edges and thin spots. People might get lulled into a false sense of security since they’re using a PC, but the reality is that a PC with a Surbuf pad on a high speed can cut quickly and therefore requires a high level of safety.
So I have spent the past couple of days reading all of the reviews on the new system, and I have to say it looks promising. At the moment, I only have a DA for all of my correction. My arsenal consist of Black, White, Orange, and Surbuf pads. M105/205, and Menzerna Power finish. Not a lot I know, but then again I’m a weekend warrior working on building my supplies. I’m almost out of M105, and wanted to ask you would I be better of purchasing the D300 instead of the M105 again? I was also considering a couple of the 5″ DA Microfiber pads too, just as another option. I always try the least aggressive combo first, and go from there. Did you have a chance to put a thickness gauge on the paint before and after? Just curious……
Thanks for all the info,
Your Surbuf pads are more aggressive than the MF Cutting Disc.
I don’t necessarily see D300 as a replacement for 105…I see it as an addition to the arsenal. If major correction is needed, I would grab first for the D300/MF disc first. If you need more correction, then reach for Surbuf/105. You might not have wanted to add yet another compound and pad to your arsenal, but trust me…there IS a place for it!
It might. The only way you’ll know is to try during your test spot session. If this combo doesn’t have enough cut for finishing, then you’d want to step down to 106FA.
This was the first car wash mitt I have used and it performed very well along with the Mr. Clean Autodry Wash System I also pushcared. I was pleasantly surprised to see how well the mitt washed to car instead of using traditional sponges. I am very happy with this purchase and recommend this to others.
Todd, Informative review….thank you.
You mention your preference to using compressed air to clean the pads….and also the mess it can create. I’m an enthusiast detailer with no access to compressed air…is this a deal breaker for people like me??
I realize the pads can be cleaned with a towel and/or brush, but you say this is not optimum.
Hi Roger, and thanks!
I wouldn’t say it’s a deal breaker by any means. Using compressed air is easier, quicker and does a more thorough job, but using a microfiber towel and/or a brush would still work…just not as good. If you used 2 or 3 pads during the entire process compared to my 1 or 2 with compressed air cleaning, that could be your difference maker. I hope this helps…
Let me start by saying that your product review was great. I always enjoy reading your articles! I have a question, after using the 301, would it be a good idea to apply your favorite sealer like BlackFire WD? And thanks again for sharing your experiences with us, I’m an enthusiast detailer that enjoys learning new tips/techniques from professionals like yourself.
I haven’t had the opportunity to actually test it, but I’m not sure how well a sealant application would work over top of the D301. It’s designed to provide a pretty durable protection layer of its own (hence the name Finishing Wax), and since it contains a blend of natural and synthetic waxes, it could potentially cause bonding issues if you try to put yet another layer of protection on top of it. I’d recommend using D301 by itself and let it provide the protection from the elements. Once they’ve worn off, then you could switch over to your favorite sealant. If you want to use a specific sealant immediately after a polishing process, then finish with something like M205 or 106FA instead. I hope this helps.
After reading the article, i noticed that you mentioned some finicky paint that does flat out not like the action of a DA. Can you name some of those paints for us?
Well, most that I have run into have been on rare vehicles that most people will never see, so my list in particular wouldn’t do much good. The one thing most of them had in common though was pure black paint!
Todd, You say specifically not recommended for a rotary.
I must ask you though. Have you tried it with a rotary? I am exclusive to rotary, either Dewalt or Makita. I typically wet sand most scratches with 1200-1500 wet sand paper and finish off with 2000-3000 grit. I think I may have every compand and polish known to man. Most often I use M105/M205 or Menzerna, Poorboys, 3m, Farecla,etc. I guess it depends on the car as you know. I also seem to get into a kinda “fad” where ill use certain combos more often than others and switch up to ease boredom if that makes sense. This new system by Meguiars has gotten my attention as I’m always looking for the edge with new products. Would it be worth it for me to get the system and purchase a porter cable or flex DA. I have 4 rotary buffers but have never had a DA.
The Paint Medic
I couldn’t imagine NOT having a D/A in my tool arsenal, and use them much more than I do the rotary. Product like the new MF system (cutting disc and D300 in particular), 105, 205, and the Surbuf pads are real game changers when teamed up with a D/A polisher. In most cases, heavy compounding like this on a D/A is easily cleaned up with one more polishing step afterwards. And then using glazes (CG EZ Creme) and sealants with the D/A is definitely the way to go. So to answer your question, I’d most definitely recommend adding a D/A to your bag of tools…
Todd, as always awesome in depth review. You are at the top of your game and make us all want to be better detailers! Quick question on the new system. I am seeing that you used the 7424xp, did you have a chance to test the system with the FLEX D/A or any other polishers? I realize it is not meant for the rotary. thank you for any input, Michael
Thanks, and glad to hear you liked the review. I’ve successfully tried it on several different D/A polishers, but not the Flex. I do believe that Rasky did though and mentioned it in his article.
Thank you. I will be adding a porter cable DA. This new meguiars system with your review has my attention. I guess I just never found the need for a DA but I could see it would be a good addition. Usually the cars I work on are already detailed. I own a scratch and chip repair business. Iappreciate your input and always enjoy your reviews and write ups
I really like all your review about all the product at https://www.detailedimage.com. I planning to get the DA which Buff Daddy and this New MF system. There are few question in my mind…
(1)If we face “special” soft paint is there any other option with DA which can finish down nicely without rotary? Like some ultra fine polish like Optimum Finish with blue pad?
(2)I always have my eye at Optimum Poli Seal..Did sir ever try with MF finishing dics? And compare with D301 which one have more cut?
I’ve encountered paints that require a very fine polish to finish down with a D/A, and some that simply wouldn’t finish down at all (pretty uncommon). This is when you need to have a good selection of polishes available so that you have options in case you run into problems. Berlina Black from Honda (S2000, NSX) mars up considerably with even M205, but you can get really good correction and finish down well with a light polish like Optimum Poli-Seal and a blue pad. In rare cases though, you will find some paints that regardless of the combination, you can’t get it to finish with the D/A (I’ve ran into 3 of them on Ferrari this winter alone!).
I never tried Poli-Seal with the MF pad, and don’t think they would be very compatible. Without doing a lot of side-by-side comparisons between Poli-Seal and D301, I’d guess that they’re pretty similar in results.
Thank Todd for your reply.
Hoping to see more review from you..
Thank you very much ~~
I have a PCXP with stock backing plate. I’m going to be purchasing the cutting disc and D300 compound then finishing with other pads/polishes.
My question is whether I can use my stock backing plate, or if the recommended meguiar’s backing plate would be worth buying in terms of performance of the pad/polish system? Also are there 5″ and 5.5″ pads or are they all 5.5″ like on DI?
Thanks so much.
I would recommend getting the Meguiar’s W67DA 5″ backing plate to go with the 5.5″ MF discs (it will also work with all of your other 5.5″ foam pads). And yes, the pads are indeed 5.5″.
Thanks for the reply. I’ll pick up the bp too with the discs then. Thanks so much.
Hi Todd, Do you think the PCXP has enough power to use the 6 inch pads? Thanks.
Paul…yes, it does and I have successfully used that combination. I personally like using the 5.5″ better, but the 6.25″ works well for big, flat surfaces.
i’m just starting out with detailing on my NBP civic si thanks to inspiration from your article on the NBP TL from a while back. I currently have a PC 7424XP, along with orange, white, and black CCS pads. i also purchased optium II and finish polishes. I have found that the optium II, even with a LOT of passes still isn’t enough to remove the deeper defects in my paint and both of my orange pads are pretty much done in at this point anyway. So, I was just wondering, would you recommend using the new meguiars compounding pad and the 300 compound followed up with my optium finish polish and a wax (on grey pads of course)? I’m trying not to spend too much money at this point and i feel like i need something a little more durable and user friendly than the CCS pads on the first polishing step.
Thanks for any help!
That combination would definitely be a few steps up in the aggressive level, and should make a significant difference in your ability to remove the heavier defects. Just keep in mind that some defects may simply be too deep to safely remove. I would first do a test spot with it just to confirm how much effort it will take to finish it down with the other pads and polishes you have in your arsenal.
Thanks for the reply!
I got to thinking about it and came up with one more question for you: if it turns out that the meguiar’s 300 compound is a little too much, would it be logical to step down to something like menzerna final finish on the meguiar’s microfiber compounding pad? I’m just curious if the pad is made specifically for the meguiar’s compound or if it works well with other slightly less abrasive polishes as well.
“The microfiber is exactly the same on the two pads, whereas the backing foam’s density differs on each.”
I actually heard Jason say that the microfiber on each pad differs is some way from the cutting pad to the polishing pad.
As always a pleasure to read your articles. Simple question my Red Audi A5 after 3 months with regular 2 bucket wash and being careful not to touch the paint as you suggest, light swirls develop. Will this system be the way to go for a delicate touch up or my traditional Menzerna and Hydropads?
Would it be ok to apply CG Jet Seal after the finishing wax?
You might not get the best bond when attempting to apply a sealant over another LSP like the wax in the Finishing Wax.
Would you say it’s ok to replace the Finishing Wax with the Jet Seal? Or should I just use the full kit and apply Jet Seal at a later time?
They are completely different animals really…the Finishing Wax is a light polish AND a durable wax, whereas Jet Seal is just a sealant. So given that, you can’t replace one with the other. You could use the Finishing Wax during your final polishing stage, and whenever the wax in it starts to lose its protection, you can apply your Jet Seal.
As always a pleasure to read your articles. Simple question my Red Audi A5 after 3 months with regular 2 bucket wash and being careful not to touch the paint as you suggest, light swirls develop. Will this system be the way to go for a delicate touch up or my traditional Menzerna and Hydropads?
If you’re still getting light marring, then you should probably re-visit your wash/dry methods, as well as your wash mitt and microfiber care. While it may be impossible to keep the vehicle 100% defect-free, you shouldn’t see that much show up that quickly.
Having said that, I would just stick to your normal products if they’re working for you. If you need to do just some spot-polishing on light marring, then the Menzerna (106FA?) should do the trick.
Great writeup, love your articles! I just ordered a G110V1 + the Microfiber Paint Correction System. I’m a beginner at detailing, but I’ve been doing a lot of research and I’m looking forward to working on my car with the new DA and MF system.
I saw your reply at the top about not recommending applying another wax over the D301, but I want to use a wax with more hydrophobic properties since I don’t think the D301 offers that, however I don’t think the Megs Ultimate Wax will remove any hazing left over from the D300/Microfiber passes.
Do you think this would be good:
1. D300 / Microfiber
2. Ultimate Polish / Foam
3. Ultimate Wax / Foam
Keep in mind that the Finishing Wax is a polish/wax combo, and can’t be compared to Megs Ultimate Wax. Finishing Wax is designed to be used with a D/A buffer, whereas Ultimate Wax is simply a wax designed to be used by hand.
If you bought the entire kit, I would recommend that you give the Finishing Wax a try. Do a test section with the Cutting Disc and D300, and then break it down into two areas. On one of them you will try the Finishing Wax, and the other you will try Ultimate Polish (if you have it too). Compare the looks to see which you prefer. If the Finishing Wax gives you better polishing / finishing results, then run with it. After it’s applied, see how you like its beading / sheeting properties in the rain. If you like it, then you’re all set. You could also do a test section (trunk lid, for instance) and try to apply the Ultimate Wax by hand over top of the Finishing Wax. Now you’ll be able to test (a) how they interact with each other, and (b) how it beads compared to just the Finishing Wax.
Thanks for the very timely and thorough response! So would there be any bonding issues with applying Ultimate Wax by hand over the D300/D301 included in the kit? I’ve read some great reviews about the D300/D301 system and I’m very keen on trying it, but I just wanted to make sure that I end up with the best results that I can possibly achieve with consumer grade products (and my novice skills).
I will likely do what you suggested, do the whole car with the D300/D301 and then use a test spot and hand apply Ultimate Wax over it to compare the beading / sheeting properties with and without the UW.
Do you think this system will finish out haze free on a 2011 Audi S4’s paint system (which I consider fairly hard paint) ?
Also, I see in some of your other writeups that the finishing wax can be used with a Lake Country black/gray pad. Whats your opinion on this ?
and last but not least, in some case’s where a different LSP is wanted, do you think I could replace the Finishing Wax with M205 ? (could M205 be used with the MF finishing disk’s ?)
hope you can get around to answering these questions for me. I tried to limit everything that I have been brainstorming to 3 simple questions. lol 🙂
thanks in advance, and keep up the great work with these writeups. I very much so enjoy and appreciate reading them.
I hate to sound vague, but it may, and it may not! If it doesn’t finish down with the MF finishing disc, then you could try using a black pad instead with the D301. And yes, you could go from D300/MF to M205 and whatever foam pads words best for the situation (I wouldn’t use the 205 with the finishing disc).
As with my previous posts, I try to do as much research before posting a comment or asking a question. One idea of mine that I have not seen is using the 300/301 system with foam pads. Would you say that the DA pads will allow more options when deciding the proper approach to various forms of paint correction? Or should you try to use the DA pads with the 300/301 for the most part? I understand this could be a vague question with the various amounts of paint damage and hardness. What are your thoughts on this subject? Thank you.
I’ve tried mixing them up a bit. The Finishing Wax seems to be much more accepting of the foam pads. The D300 compound worked very well on a Tangerine foam pad when working at slower speeds and less pressure on a clear bra, but it had a tendency to gum up when I tried higher pressure and speeds directly on paint with the same Tangerine pad. I think in some instances you could get good results with the D300 and a foam pad, but obviously there are a lot of variables involved.
For me, I stick with D300 on the MF Cutting Disc, but I’ll play around with the D301 on a variety of pads when necessary.
I hope this helps.
I recently used the D300 on black subaru paint and was very pleased with the results. But when I started to do an alcohol wipe down (with a new towel), I noticed that there were light scratches again. My question is: Were these new scratches (perhaps from the polish dust), or were they there all along and the polish residue was simply hiding them? I haven’t had a chance to do a second step, I’m going to try M205 with a finishing pad, but I was curious if you’ve experienced this…or perhaps I just need to do a second application of D300.
Your help and your write-ups are greatly appreciated.
It could be a couple of things. For one, the alcohol wipedown could potentially be causing the scratches…seen it before. Two, there’s always the possibility of a slight filling depending on how you’ve used it. I haven’t experienced it myself, but that’s not to say that it isn’t possible.
You could try going over that area with the 205 finishing step to see if it takes care of it.
Even though D300 is easy to use, it’s like everything else in that it has at least some learning curve. Just play around with it a bit, see how your cut is, see how you can finish it up with a finer polish, etc.
Thanks Todd, I’ll keep at it and see if I can get it figured out.
Your comments regarding DA Microfiber Finishing Disc as a final shine with 106FA?
I’m not sure I’m following you here. Are you asking if it’s OK to use the Finishing Disc with 106FA? If that’s correct, then I probably wouldn’t recommend it. D300 and D301 were designed specifically around the MF disc. While I could be wrong (I haven’t tried it), I would guess that you’ll get a better finish with a light foam pad (black) when using Menzerna 106FA.
I offer a one step polish service. I am the only employee so time is always a problem. Would it be ok if I just used the the d300 and didn’t follow up with the finishing wax? I was hoping to to just use the d300 then follow up with blackfire sealant. Also, I am planning to use this on a black subaru STI. Would this paint be considered “finicky?”
Todd, I have a NBP TL-S and tried the Chemical Guys Black Light Hybrid Radiant Finish to try and get rid of some defects and it did to some degree but not to my satisfaction. My new strategy is to try the D300 DA Compound and perhaps follow it up with Menzerna Micro Polish SF 4500 if necessary and then hit it again with the Black Light for sealing. I know you have or had a NBP TLs as well so any thoughts you have would be helpful. Using a PC by the way. Thanks Conrad
This sounds like a good approach, but do a full test section with all processes first to make sure it works out to your satisfaction.
Hi Todd. Have you compared ht crimson with black pads on finishing using menz 106fa, 85rd and sonax ntpc? I noticed you always use black pads.
Great review, and reading through all these comments has been extremely informative also. I as hoping to get some specific advice so that I did not make a mistake when applying the general principals I have learned to my situation.
I am trying to remove some VERY slight swirl marks from a Sparkling Graphite Metallic BMW 335i. I will be using a PC 7424XP.
Would you recommend the full MF system or should I simply go straight to a 205 with my LSP over that? I understand that the D301 can be used as a LSP, but I really like the sealant I have been using. Will there be any bonding issues if I apply a polymer sealant atop the D301?
Do I need to splurge on the complete MF system or can get away with just buying a bottle of M205?
I’ve been reading and reading and now I can honestly say I more confused about which route I should go, so i guess i just need to ask the question.
Vehicle: Infiniti G37 – Platinum Silver,
Condition: Very Good – Good (Excellent is one of your finished detaling jobs)
Visible Defects – Light oxidation spots, only became visible after I clayed, very light swirls under the right light and angle, moderate swirls on outer door frame, light bumper paint chips.
Storage: Garage kept during work, outside when home.
Maintenance: minimum 3 hours every week, washing (2bucket), wax monthly, spray wax every wash.
I bought the car used but Its my baby and I really want to get a best out of the paint, and have no issues spending hours to do it right.
So, after all this my question is how do I get the best out my silver car, what polisher would you recommend, pad combo and polish?
I was thinking of get a PC7424XP, and the following SI 1500 (PO83), FF 3000 (PO85U), SF 4500 (PO85RD), BF Wet Diamond and DoDo Juice Light Fantastic.
You thoughts please.
Thank you and nice job, love the articles, a video or two would be nice too. 🙂
I saw the link to this off of Detialed Image’s Facebook page…
I am going to have to invest this system.. it truly is a breakthrough in detailing technology!
I been thinking about getting the Microfiber DA Correction System, after reading your post it seems like I ready don’t need the Finishing Disc and D301. Should I just get a larger bottle of D300 and more Cutting Discs?
I recently did a correction with this system on a 2009 Honda Civic (Black). I was unable to get out some of the deeper swirls, could it be that I wasn’t applying enough pressure? Could it be that this paint is a little too hard for this compound?
Thanks for any Feedback Todd. Other than it not being able to correct deeper swirls, this system was amazing, very very easy to use.
I would like to know if the microfibre system can be used on a vehicle that was recently painted and cut and ploished.
Want to use the system to remove swirls and spot after the vehicle has been polished.
Is this advised