CarPro Cquartz UK Edition: Application Processby Zach McGovern
Cquartz UK is a product that I have grown to love over the past year or so. This budget friendly coating provides an excellent layer of protection, while also enhancing gloss and producing an amazing final touch to your perfectly polished vehicle. In this article, I will walk you through the basic application steps for the Cquartz UK Edition Ceramic Paint Coating. For a review of this coating take a look at my previously published article here.
Before you begin installing the coating, it is important that you have followed the appropriate steps to clean and prep the surface. The paint should be thoroughly washed, decontaminated, and it is a great idea to perform any necessary paint correction or polishing steps. Once this is completed, the surface should be wiped down with CarPro Eraser to eliminate any residual polishing oils or residue.
Simply mist Eraser onto a small section of paint as shown below.
Next, carefully wipe the product on the surface. You do not need to “scrub” the surface. Use light pressure to reduce the risk of marring your nicely polished paint.
Finally, flip to a clean, dry section of your towel (or use a 2nd towel) to dry the area. You may repeat the Eraser wipe down process multiple times if you feel it is necessary.
Once you are certain the paint is completely clean, you may begin applying the coating. First, shake the bottle and then open the cap slowly. Next, wrap the small suede microfiber cloth around the applicator block and apply a line of product down the middle of the applicator as shown below.
Using quick strokes, spread the coating across the surface. I prefer to utilize a cross hatch pattern (side to side strokes, then up and down strokes) to ensure even coverage. When the coating no longer spreads, you need to apply more product to your applicator and continue to work. Depending on the temperature and humidity where you are working, you may be able to work with entire panels at a time, or you may need to work in smaller sections.
Pay attention to your ambient conditions, if you are working in a cooler environment (<60F) you may need to leave the product to set on the surface for a short period of time or you may proceed with wiping the excess coating away right away. The coating should wipe away cleanly and easily. If it feels “grabby” or is difficult to wipe away then you have probably waited too long before removing. Remember, there is no perfect recipe for application and removal time, the instructions are a good starting point, but it is always wise to do a couple of test spots to determine what works best for you that particular day. You may find your particular environment requires more or less time than what is recommended on the label.
Remember to flip the suede applicator cloth over after working on a panels or two, and switch to a new cloth when needed to avoid streaking. As a reference, I typically use 4-5 applicator cloths per car (more for larger vehicles). You may notice that if you do not continue to switch to a fresh applicator, the coating may leave behind streaks. You should also remember to continue flipping to a fresh side of your towel when wiping away excess coating, and use a new towel when your current towel no longer wipes the product away cleanly. It is important to note that the applicator cloths and towels used to remove the coating should be discarded after applying the coating as the residual product will harden the applicator cloth and could harden your microfiber towels as well.
After the entire vehicle has been coated, you should avoid any rain or water for a minimum of 1 hour, and if the vehicle should get wet within the first 24 hours, it should be carefully dried because the coating will be more vulnerable to water spots within the first 24 hours after initial application.
If you are fortunate enough to be working on a sunny day, I highly recommend pulling the vehicle out into direct sunlight after you have applied the coating. First, carefully look for any high spots. If you notice some areas that you did not completely wipe away, pull the vehicle back inside to eliminate the high spots. Now you can leave the car in direct sunlight to ‘bake’ the surface. This will accelerate the curing process. Allow the vehicle to sit in the sun for as long as possible. After an hour, apply CarPro Reload to the vehicle’s surface to help protect the coating while it continues to cure (allow vehicle to cool prior to Reload application if you have left it in the sun).
When you are finished, you will be left with an incredibly glossy and very well protected vehicle!
Application Summary & Tips
- Ensure surface is properly prepped
- Apply coating to small (2’x2′) test spot to determine if wipe on, wipe off or if coating needs to set before wiping
- Apply coating using quick strokes
- Flip applicator cloth after 1-2 panels, and switch to new cloth after using both sides (very important!!)
- Inspect panel with LED to ensure there is no smearing or streaking
- If possible, allow vehicle to ‘bake’ in sun after application
- Wipe vehicle with Reload after a minimum of 1 hour after application
- Avoid standing water on vehicle for at least 24 hours
Buy Products From This Article
Purchase the products used in this article individually or in one convenient package here!
Nice review…Do you use one or two coats per vehicle?
If the answer is two, how long do you wait between coats?
Lastly, how would you compare CQUK to 22PLE?
I personally only do one coat of CQUK per vehicle. If you are applying a 2nd coat, it should be done approximately 1-2 hour after you began applying your first coat. I have not done any personal testing with 1 coat compared to 2 coats, however I have been told that a 2nd coat will help to enhance the gloss even further, but durability will not necessarily be better with additional coats as 1 coat already provides incredible protection (and gloss for that matter).
22ple is certainly a bit easier to apply, but I have found UK to last a bit longer. Both products are incredibly glossy. Another thing to keep in mind is that 22ple is also much more expensive than CQUK.
Thanks for the comments!
nice review i wll be doing 2 coats on my personal car cause i have no use for whatever is gonna be left over in the bottle now iv seen chad raskovich make a video on application he recomends to apply the 2nd coat right after applying the 1st coat because if you wait to long the coating will repel it self ? so im kinda of confused as far as wait time between coats another thing is in my kit it only came with one large micro suede towel for removal obvioulsy one towel will not be enough to remove or wipe off the excess product what towel do you use when wiping off as i dont want to use a super expensive new towel that will not be able to be used on paint anymore
Hi Felix, The video you are referring to is when Chad is applying CQuartz Finest. Finest is an entirely different product from the CQuartz line and is only available to authorized professional installers. Do not use this video as an application guide for CQuartz UK.
The large suede towel will be able to handle a large portion of your vehicle, and in some cases all of it, but as soon as you notice the towel is no longer wiping away the product, then it is time to get a new one. You can purchase extra suede towels from CarPro, or you can simply use a shorter nap microfiber towel from Detailed Image such as one of the all purpose towels. If your paint is particularly delicate, I would suggest purchasing more of the suede cloths.
Hope that helps clear up some confusion.
First time I’ve seen a Honda used on this website used to demonstrate a product application. Thanks for showing that even daily driver vehicles can be detailed to perfection.
In any event, was wondering, since Honda paint is know to be more softer than others, do you notice a difference in application and buffing?
Finally, is CQ UK safe to use on other areas of the car, such as wheels, glass, chrome, panels, etc?
We don’t all work on supercars every day 🙂 Daily driven vehicles make up the majority of my work, and they deserve to look great too.
The polishing process is certainly very dependent on the hardness of the paint. Obviously softer paints do not require as aggressive of correction and they require a more delicate touch to finish down perfectly. The Accord shown in these photos was polished with CarPro Reflect on a white lake country polishing pad.
CQuartz UK can be used on paint, wheels, and metal.
Thanks for the comments!
Is a dealer that can install c quartzite my area? Chicago IL 60634.thanks Ken
Hi Ken, please contact Ivan Rajic, a fellow Ask-A-Pro Author and owner of Lustr Auto Detail. He is based in the Chicago area and would be able to take care of you. http://www.LustrDetail.com
My Corvette has many coats of wax on it. What do I need to do to prep the paint before applying?
All of the wax MUST be removed prior to coating the vehicle with a ceramic coating. If there are any remaining oils or wax on the surface, the coating may not bond to the paint and will have greatly reduced life.
You need to thoroughly wash the car with a heavy concentration of Citrus Wash to degrade the wax, I would then recommend at least lightly polishing the surface followed by a thorough wipe down with CarPro Eraser to strip any remaining polishing oils.
Let me know if you have any more questions let me know.
Very good explanation for the application of cquartz 🙂 I applied the cquartz on the hood and front fender and I put the 2014 reload after 1 hour and I found it hard to buff off, is this normal?
After the next day, 18h after application of cquartz I had a few drops of water due to rain. Nothing bad but some drops. I have not seen the need to wipe the water and I let my body builder because it must repaint 2-3 body parts.
What do I risk?
Thanks for the article!
If you recall, what polish(es) and pad(s) combination(s) did you use to correct the defects on this Honda Accord?
It looks stunning
Hi David – this was a brand new car prep we did and it was in great shape initially. We just used a fine finishing polish and pad to really bring out the most in the paint before coating. We chose M205 on a crimson foam pad if I remember correctly.
Hi. Can you use cquartz uk on cellulose paint? Thanks
I need your help. Could you please make a documentation as you did for opti-gloss coat. Like the pictures of cquartz flashing and when to wipe. it will be very useful to the detailing community. Esp. for me:). Thanks in advance
Hi Shabeer – what specifically do you need help with? This article covers the basic principles of the application process, however it is difficult to provide a perfect guide as ambient conditions play a big role in how CQuartz UK will react. The majority of issues with this product are related to higher heat and/or humidity and leaving the product on the panel for too long. UK was designed to work in cooler temps, therefore if you’re working in a warmer environment (say above 60F) the product may require more attention and effort than normal. In warmer temperatures, CQUK is often essentially a wipe-on, wipe-off product. This means as soon as you are finished spreading the product onto an area (usually have to work in smaller areas) you should immediately begin removing it. This product does not have a visible “flash” like Gloss-Coat or some other coatings and can therefore be difficult to judge on when to remove it, but as I mentioned, if it feels particularly sticky, you have likely waited too long. Please let me know if you’ve got any specific questions. Thanks!
Thank you very much for your early reply. Thanks again. Could you please share a close up pic of the coating how it looks when it is ready to wipe and also please share a close up pic of how the paint looks just after wiping want to see how much coating we should remove by wiping.
As I mentioned, CQUK does not truly flash or change appearance like many other coatings do, therefore the product just looks wet on the surface as you’re applying it. Upon wiping, there should be no visible coating residue on the surface. Just clean, glossy paint. The layer of coating that remains is microscopic (~1.5 microns thick) and is way too thin to be seen by the naked eye. This thin layer bonds to the paint upon application, and you are simply removing residual product. If excessive pressure or wiping is used, you do risk removing too much of the coating, so lighter pressure is best.
“””The majority of issues with this product are related to higher heat and/or humidity and leaving the product on the panel for too long. UK was designed to work in cooler temps, therefore if you’re working in a warmer environment (say above 60F) the product may require more attention and effort than normal. In warmer temperatures, CQUK is often essentially a wipe-on, wipe-off product. This means as soon as you are finished spreading the product onto an area (usually have to work in smaller areas) you should immediately begin removing it. This product does not have a visible “flash” like Gloss-Coat or some other coatings and can therefore be difficult to judge on when to remove it, but as I mentioned, if it feels particularly sticky, you have likely waited too long. “”””””””””””” This information is the lost key for me very specific. Thank you for your in-depth reply.
Happy to help!
Please share close up pics of coating just after wiping. it will be very helpful
The panel will look clean and glossy after wiping the coating away. If you only coat a portion of the panel, depending on the paint color, you may notice the coated area is slightly darker than the uncoated area, but other than that there will be no indication that the coating is present. The layer that bonds to the paint is microscopic, and there should be no visible wet residual product on the paint after wiping.
Thank you Zach for your unconditional professional support.
Zach, one more thing. At first time, When I applied the cquartz UK on my car’s hood. I didn’t wiped the coating as a part of an experiment just want to know what will happen. Result is coating hazed all over and not coming off. Which is the best way to get rid of that hazing.:)
You will need to polish the area to remove the dried product. You will then need to wipe with eraser and re-coat the area.
Hi Zach how do you apply the reload spray after applying Cquartz do you apply it like a polish wipe on let it dry or wait a couple of days then apply and rinse of with house
Thanks for your help
Hi Brendon – Reload is applied sort of like a quick detailer, however you use very little product. The way I apply Reload is like this… mist a small amount of product onto a clean microfiber towel. Spread the product onto the surface and gently wipe until the product has essentially disappeared. Grab a second towel and then lightly buff the area to remove any excess product. You may also lightly mist Reload directly onto the vehicle, then spread with a towel, then wipe away with a 2nd towel. Whichever you prefer. Be sure to work in small sections, as Reload may be difficult to remove if it has been allowed to sit on the surface. Also make sure the panels are completely cool, and do not apply in direct sunlight. Hope that helps.
Can I use on the car glasses.
I would not use CQuartz UK on automotive glass. Instead, consider using 22ple VG1.
after application of CQUK can I use a wax or sealant or?? to finish after washing? Second I use v-7 after my black light application and it seems to work well? Thoughts?
You may top CQUK if you wish, just ensure the coating has completely cured first. There is no major benefit to applying a traditional wax or sealant on top of a coating, however it will not harm the coating. If you wish to apply additional protection, I would recommend 22ple VS1 Final Coat instead of a traditional wax or sealant.
i washed and ironx my 2005 Volvo V70R this past week which i had paint corrected over a month ago, i washed the car then followed by using ironx and eraser. i applied the CQUK coating and i noticed the next day after sitting over 24 hours in my garage that there is a few streak spots. what can i do about this? will this reduce my paint life or do i have to remove all of this?
Hi Fred – if you would like to remove the streaks, you will likely need to polish them away at this point as the coating will be too hard to remove high spots by wiping. After polishing, reapply coating to the areas that were polished. If the streaks do not bother you, there is no harm in leaving them, but I would personally recommend fixing them now before the coating has reached full hardness.
Awesome write up, many thanks! My car had a coating of CQuartz applied to it just over a year ago, should I still use Eraser before applying a new coat? If it’s of any help, my car has a Vinyl wrap on it.
Kyle – yes, I would thoroughly clean your vehicle with CarPro Reset, then completely dry it. Clay if needed, and then wipe with Eraser prior to coating.
i bought a UK kit to apply to a BMW e36 and have a few concerns before i apply the product. Firstly I reside in the Caribbean and the weather is usually hot around this time about 86 during the day and about 68 on evenings. Wanted to find out what would be the best time to apply the product. Also saw the post about applying the product to the windshield, i don’t wish to apply the product to my windshield but my headlight are the glass type not plastic and i wanted to know if it would be wise to apply the product there as i am concerned to maintaining an even shine. i also usually cover the car at nights to prevent dust from accumulating. Wanted to know if this will be safe after applying the product for the first couple days and will dust have any effect while the product is being cured. i intend on putting two coats on the car
Hi Aleem – given your tropical climate, I would have recommended traditional CQuartz rather than CQuartz UK. UK will be more difficult to apply in your environment, but not impossible by any means. I would apply it when temp and humidity is at the lowest… if you can get access to an air conditioned shop that would obviously be ideal. There is no problem applying it to your headlights if you wish. Dust will not harm the coating while it is curing, and a car cover should be fine as long as you let the coating cure for several hours before covering.
Hi,Zach. Noob here, for coatings I’ve only applied Gyeon Mohs(what a strange name?) before. Weather In Vancouver,BC,Canada is a big issue for detailing since it rains pretty much everyday. The cold temp. is only making it worse for coating. I’ve heard a lot of good stories about CQUK and I’d like to try it out, the last and only experience I got from the Gyeon Mohs is that coating really takes a long time to flash.(not to mention the cure time) I want something that can be applied in cold climates(below 40F) and cures very quickly so my daily driver can be coated and hit the rain as soon as I can, since rain is pretty much all we got and 12 hours overnight is all I got. I desperately need some professional help and I think you’re the guy to talk to, Thanks in advance.
Jim C. Benson
Jim, I would direct you to contact CarPro directly for the most accurate answers to your questions. Your situation seems to be an extreme example of how early can the coating safely be released into the elements, and I do not want to provide any false info or mislead you.
CQUK is designed for colder temps, so you’re headed in the right direction. Hopefully CarPro can provide you with all the details you need for a successful installation.
Hi Zach, I previously applied this product to my vehicle, but recently hit a deer with my front end. All the damage has been repaired, but the shop advised not to apply the CQuartz to my vehicle for over 3 months. I obviously want to get the CQuartz protection on there ASAP before I get any dings/scratches from rocks, etc. Do you feel I can apply the Cquartz in a week or so, or do I have to wait the 3 months? If 3 months, is there anything I can use to prevent dings/scratches until then? Also, can I just apply to the hood and front passenger quarter panel which were damaged and repaired, or should I reapply to the entire vehicle? I applied it about 3 months ago to the entire car. Thanks in advance.
Hi John – the body shop is correct. You do not want to use any sort of wax or sealant on fresh paint unless it has been completely cured. Typically resprayed panels are not completely cured and require a minimum of 30 days for the curing process to complete (the paint needs to be able to breath during this process which is why no sealant or protection should be used!).
If the rest of the vehicle was not effected by the repair, and the coating is performing as it should, then I would only apply the coating to the repaired panels after the specified waiting period.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Thanks Zach. Appreciate the solid advice.
Hey Zach. I know I barraged you with a load of questions in regards to Gloss-Coat in another one of your articles, but I figured I would ask my questions about Cquartz in this article. My main concern with this coating is that you stated in the other article that gloss coat didn’t really have much scratch resistance if any at all, how would you rate this products ability to resist smaller micro marring and etc? Again Im planning on installing the coating on DD car’s that have rather soft paint so my hopes are that the coating can not only save me some time but also help prevent some micro marring. Also during the application I understand that this product can be a large pain if left on too long, but would it hurt the appearance and effectiveness of the coating if it were to be removed too early?
Hi James – my answer regarding scratch resistance will be the same across the board. I have tried most consumer coatings, and many pro coatings, and scratch resistance is not something I am comfortable marketing to our clients. The increase in hardness does provide a minute amount of scratch resistance, but I believe for all practical purposes it is nearly irrelevant. On soft paint, a coating (any of them) will help some as washing and drying is easier, but the paint will still be very delicate. If the coating is removed too early, it will likely fail much sooner than the expected 2 years. Again, for ease of use and maximizing benefits, I would look into 22ple coatings. Easy to apply, easy to remove, look stunning, and perform very well. They’re quickly becoming some of our favorites.
In my opinion, if your vehicles are that delicate, you may be better off investing in a spotless water system like the CR spotless so that you can almost completely avoid touching your vehicle (while drying) which is a major factor in avoiding defects over time.
Could I top the coating, once it has had time to cure, with a sealant like Menzerna Power Lock? Also from your experience, the small micro-marring that occurs over time one car paint would that micro-marring be contained within the coating or just go through it and into the paint like if micro-marring occurs when a sealant is applied onto the paint. Im curious because I understand that sealants are not very thick, in terms of micrometers but for a coating like Cquartz UK it has a thickness of about 1-2 micrometers.
You could certainly top it with whatever you’d like once it is cured, but the preferred topper would be CarPro Reload as it is a silica based product that behaves very similarly to the CQuartz coatings in terms of dirt resistance and water behavior.
As far as marring goes, the theory is that lighter scratches will reside in the coating, however there is no way to prove this without very expensive equipment. A sealant or wax adds no measurable thickness to the surface which it is applied to, so a coating will certainly stand up better over time and help to preserve clear coat compared to sealants and waxes.
Hi Zach, I just did my new truck finally since I had the time to dedicate for the coating and my friends aren’t bombarding me with “can you do mine”. Up to now I just had Esoteric wax and Kamikaze overcoat on the paint. Citrus wash, nano skin mitt, little sonax perfect finish and a finishing pad, followed by panel wipe, then gyeon prep, and IPA (I try and be thorough) then I did Essence and UK. Having used Gtechniq(c1/exo), 22ple (signature, pro 1&2, and vx3 but disappointed with the HPC), Kamikaze ISM and Miyabi, and I have Gyeon Prime in a box,(plus I’ve tried all the trim, metal, and glass versions of about every brand) I thought this was easy to use, and great looks right next to the kamikaze brand, my brilliant black metallic paint is popping and wet looking. And yes, I’m one of those guys has to try the next “new” thing, trying to find the best combo to go with.
Question, do I have to use reload? Or is that just to help prevent spots during curing initially? I have reload, Gyeon cure, 22ple VS1, and Kamikaze Overcoat(my fave of the 4), but I really want to see what UK does on its own as long as I can. Gyeon suggests cure right away also for Prime and Kamikaze only when you want to use it(I’ve never had spotting problems by the way after my very first coating attempt, live and learn) and now 22ple says use vs1 right away, when in the past, you simply coated and washed the car. Kinda feel like these are becoming money makers in that you “need” to top them…and keep topping them. I try to go without the “toppers” as long as I can, unless like my work vehicle its outside 24/7, in which case Overcoat every couple months, with a little Reset wash and iron X.
Oh, I love 22ple vx3 over essence after I saw you do it, I did my brothers car and my fiancés car with that combo.
Hi Joe – Sounds like you’ve had quite the collection of coatings!
No, you do not have to use Reload. It is additional protection on top of the coating to enhance hydrophobic properties, protection, and gloss over time. All toppers are, in my opinion, optional… though the manufacturers recommend them due to their ability to increase the overall protection and performance of the coatings “system”.
Curious – what about 22ple HPC were you unhappy with?
Zach, did all the prep, wash/clay/jeweling polish/GT panel wipe/Gyeon Prep/ IPA, then applied the HPC. It came out weird, it seemed almost a little gritty or thick/chalky then smoothed out if I worked it a bit and it looked like the other 22ple coatings when applied. Waited for it to haze, removed. It was easy to remove like all the others, so no problem there. Only did 1 layer. Let sit about 14 hrs then drove the truck. Got caught in a little rain, beading was pretty good, not sure if more layers it would’ve been better, but in my experience 22ple never had the best “beading” compared to some coatings, good but not like Exo v2, Gyeon or Kamikaze brands. In the past I just top them after a few months with Esoteric wax or Kamikaze Overcoat.
So, I figured should be ok, it cured long enough, no problems, right? I washed the next day(less than 24 hrs after it got wet from rain) with Gyeon Bathe and the truck was spotted like a leopard. Beading was meh. I tried some Gyeon water spot remover, washed with Bathe again(and I’ve used this combo for spots on paint/glass/metal on coated and non coated cars with no impact to LSP), and it was like there was no coating. The water barely beaded or sheeted off. So that’s when I polished off did all the prep again and did the UK. Maybe it needed more cure time, or additional layers, I’m not sure. I’m gonna try the roof of my truck with 2 layers and see what happens. It’s probably on my end, but I’ve never had a coating come out of the bottle the way it did to start, chalky kind of until I worked it a bit. I shook the bottle before I started and gave a little shake before I did each panel. It was a fresh bottle from DI I ordered a couple weeks ago and was unopened. I’ve had good luck with 22ple in the past, so maybe a bad bottle or my application.
Hmm, I have never experienced it as gritty/chalky. Perhaps you received a bad batch, or perhaps it needed to be shaken more prior to use… that is important with all coatings. 22ple has never put water beading as a high priority with their coatings. In fact, they have a professional only coating which is hydrophillic. The new VM1e is also hydrophillic. After speaking with the creator of 22ple, they tend to believe that beading is ultimately the property that results in water spotting and while tall beads are pretty, they have no real benefit. Some others in the industry also share this belief, though consumers love to see water dancing off their paint, so water beading continues to be a high priority for most brands. 22ple created VS1 to enhance hydrophobic properties should you feel the need to do so, and in my experience it produces very nice beading.
As far as water spotting goes, every silica based coating is very susceptible to water spotting… especially shortly after application such as your case. This is often why manufacturers recommend the topper immediately (or within several hours) after application to help provide additional protection from spotting.
Remember, water beading is only a sign of high surface tension. It has *NO* indication on protection or whether a wax, sealant, or coating is in tact or not. Using cleaners such as shampoos, apc, tar removers (solvents), water spot removers (acids), etc will lower the surface tension at least temporarily and can have permanent effects on the surface tension which will result in a less hydrophobic surface. Again, there is no way to tell if this has effected the actual coating layer, all we know for sure is that the surface tension was effected.
Give it another shot and keep me posted on the results (shoot me an email directly if you’d like). I had tested HPC on my own vehicle for a little over 6 months before applying a new coating, and it performed great. I agree that beads were not nearly as tall/pretty as some coatings, but the water still easily flew off of my vehicles as I drove or when I blew it dry.
I agree beading isn’t indicative of the coating being there, and my first experience with a coating, my black grand Cherokee looked like a leopard after the first couple days, pollen plus a light rain plus sun equals the devil for coatings, so spring in Ohio I’m washing a couple times a week. I also understand the first few days are pretty critical to the coating curing. The Gyeon water spot remover is made specifically for coatings and I’ve used it on Kamikaze and 22ple coatings before with no adverse effect, so I didn’t think anything of it to use it. I’ll give it another go, see what happens.
I will say when I polished it off, I couldn’t really tell when I was removing it. In the past, polishing a coating I work slow and change pads often(1 big panel, or 2 small), and can usually see a line or tell where I removed and didn’t, sometimes I run the machine over with a quick pass just to try and see visually where coating is/isn’t. Kinda hard to explain what I’m trying to say, but with the HPC I didn’t notice my pads getting “gummed” up as quickly or that the coating was removed or not. Just when I was done with panel wipe and that, my fingers didn’t glide, definite drag so I figured I got it removed.
Zach, I have a 2004 Mercury Sable with carpro Cquartz 2 coat apply on 6-1-15
How do I remove the coats of Cquarts off my car I not happy with the product.
Thank you for your time!
Hey Steven – I’m curious why you’re not happy with the product? In any case, you will need to completely machine polish your vehicle to remove the coating.
I am new to CQUK 110. I am going to use it for our new car. I have been reading up and watching how-to videos. The car is well prepped and ready. My questions are:
1) How much time should be allowed after the initial application and the wipe off? I have read and seen anywhere between 1-5 minutes to just wipe on and then wipe off. …or is this temperature dependent?
2) Can I add a wax layer on top of the reload layer or just to CQUK? The reason I ask is because the car will be used as a daily driver and I want the extra protection. I Have been using a pure Brazilian ivory camauba wax on my sport cars with great results. …so I thought a quick layer on top would be ok. …as long as it does not screw something up.
Hi Mike – unless you are working in colder temperatures, the coating should be wiped off almost immediately after applying to a panel. Large panels should be broken up into multiple sections so you can work in smaller areas. If you’re working in a warm environment, CQUK may be difficult to work with as it was created for cooler temperatures, so chose a small panel and do some testing to find the best timing for your particular environment.
Wax will not screw anything up on top of a coating, however you need to understand that by applying anything on top of a coating, you are covering the coating up and therefore masking some of the beneficial properties of the coating. Wax, for instance, will attract considerably more dirt and dust than the coating. Reload will also attract more dirt and dust, but not as much as a traditional wax. The reason it is recommended to use a coating topper like Reload is because the high silica content of coatings like CQUK make it more common for water spotting to occur if it is expose to hard water, but Reload will help to protect against this.
Let me know if you’ve got any other questions.
Hi random question. I applied uk last Wed on my black Silverado. Let it bake out in The sun for a couple hours. Was in The sun all day Thursday Paint got To Around 150 degrees. It ended Up pouring while I was driving on Friday. Drove 250 Miles in The rain. Saturday I washed The truck off with water. Dried it. Then re applied reload.
Do you think it messed The coating Up. Driving in The rain?
If I wanted To reapply The coating would I have To polish it off or could it be layered?
The coating is very susceptible to water spots, especially when it is so fresh, but with extended time outdoors under the hot sun I would say you should be OK. Continue using Reload to resist water spotting and boost hydrophobic properties, and your truck will look great for years!
I put a second coat on, but it was the next day. I can see streaking in some spots. If i want to do a panel over again, do I just polish the coating off? Its a new car, so what level of compound or polish would you recommend? Or will solutions like eraser remove the coating?
If it has been more than 12 hours, Eraser will likely have no effect on the streaking. Start with a light polish like M205 on a polishing pad. That should be all you need, but you can analyze your results and make changes as needed from there.
Hi Zach, I have a car that was previously repainted at the quarter panel, and when they sprayed the clear coat it was obviously not enough so part portion of the car is noticeably “duller” when looking into the reflections. My question is, if I try to apply more coats in that particular region, would it help w/ the “shine” any better if say, I apply 4 coats while leaving the rest of the car w/ 2 coats? I am trying to see if I can avoid repainting the area.
Hi Alan – the dullness that you are seeing may be a result of poor finishing, not necessarily lack of paint. You may need to wet sand, compound, and polish the repainted areas to match the texture of the rest of the car. This is no uncommon as most body shops do not take the time to properly finish the repaired areas. Adding additional coats of CQuartz, or any other nano coating, will have no real effect on the shine of the repainted area with regards to getting it to match the rest of the vehicle.
Hi Zach, thanks for all of the info, very helpful. I have 3 questions for you
1. Is there an alternative to eraser? Shipping got delayed (I have CQuartz, non UK) and everything is prepped so car is staying in the garage until I’m all done
2. Is there value in applying CQuartz to wheels (aluminum, black chrome with clear coat) and calipers? I just painted the calipers with the G2 paint system. Wheels are already off the car so I figured why not ? (Another reason for question #1)
3. I read the comment about waiting for the paint cure at least 30 days which was rough because my front bumper is finally getting fixed/repainted and I’m all set to apply CQuartz when it’s ready tomorrow. My question is two fold. It will have a clear coat on it so wouldn’t that prevent the paint from “breathing” anyway? I have friends who had their entire car painted and then had ceramic pro applied immediately after (clear coat on), was that a mistake or is ceramic coat a different approach?
4. Sorry, make that 4, I can’t go back and edit. I live in Arizona, temps are still 90-100, sounds like I should wipe off CQuartz immediately after applying in small sections but is there a temp “ceiling” where the product should not be applied because it’s too hot?
Looking forward to your feedback, thanks.
Hi Mike –
1 – yes. Simply use a diluted Isopropyl Alcohol solution. I recommend mixing it between 20-50% concentration with distilled water. Be sure to work in small areas and wipe the area completely dry. Do not let the IPA sit on the paint for an extended period of time. Simply spray a light mist onto an area, then remove.
2 – Yes, CQuartz can be applied to painted wheels and will help make them easier to clean.
3 – Clear coat paint needs to breath/out gas just like any other layer of paint. It is a paint system. There is no guarantee that applying a wax, sealant, or coating immediately after painting will cause issues, however if you ask any painter they will recommend leaving the paint bare for at least 30 days just to be safe. Better safe than sorry!
4 – In your climate, I would not recommend using CQuartz UK (which is what was used in this article) as it can be very difficult to use at high temps. If you have CQuartz Classic you will have a much easier time. CarPro lists a recommended working temp of 40F – 90F for UK, but in my experiences anything over 60F requires the product to be removed almost immediately after applying. My advice to you is to start with small test spots to determine how the product reacts to your ambient temp/humidity levels at the time of application. You want to find a time when the coating wipes away cleanly without smearing. If it has set for too long, it will be difficult to remove.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Great info, thanks Zach. Just 2 follow up questions. What is the risk of applying CQuartz too soon on paint that hasn’t cured yet? Is there another tip on timing for wiping the product off? In small enough sections, it can be wiped cleanly away but if it’s too too soon, it may not have set properly, right? What’s the “sweet” spot I should look for?
The reason you do not want to wax, seal, or coat fresh paint is the solvents in the paint need time to escape. If the paint is sealed right away, it may prevent the solvents from escaping and can lead to defects in the paint commonly called “fish eyes”. 30 days is typically the minimum amount of time, but many places will recommend waiting at 60-90 days before applying any sort of protection. Again, there is no guarantee that if you protect fresh paint you will see defects as there are many other variables that play a part in the curing time of paint, however as I mentioned before, it is always better to be safe than sorry.
You’re right, you can remove a coating too soon or you can remove it too late… both will lead to issues. With CQuartz UK, in the temps you are working in, I really doubt there is a “too soon”. It takes roughly 1 minute to spread the coating onto a small panel (like a door), this is usually long enough waiting period before you begin removing in the same place you began applying the coating. You will have to do some experimenting to find the sweet spot, but I would not imagine you will need to leave it on the paint for longer than 1-2 minutes before removing, but let your test spots be your guide. Make sure you inspect the coated area for high spots or streaks in bright, but diffuse lighting (outdoor shade is the best). You can use an LED inspection light to make sure the coating has wiped away cleanly and has not left smearing. Light smearing may be visible under LED light, but it should begin to fade as the coating cures.
Sounds good, thanks again Zach, you’ve been very helpful. What is your test to ensure paint is fully cured? I’ve read that most do a “sniff” test but only based on a brief search
I don’t know of a way to check that paint is fully cured. I would consult with a professional painter for more info.
I am from India, I have cquartz uk. can i use this product in India. afraid because of Hot Weather.
I would not use CQuartz UK edition in that environment. I would use regular CQuartz.
Hi Zach, I am thinking of applying cquartz to my boat fiberglass hull . sides are red with gray metal flake arrow running the distance of the hull and the top the hull is white any concerns I should have ? I am in the process of buffing it out right now finishing up the heavy compound and going to the finer on a foam polishing pad. then washing, then wiping down with ipa and h2o and ready to apply the c quartz. I live in Louisiana New Orleans area to be specific
Hi Michael – Sounds like you understand the process. I don’t see why you would have any issues.
What happens if I wipe product off too soon or too late? In either case, how can I correct it if I run into these issues? Thanks in advance.
Hi Jerry – if you wipe the product off too soon, it may negatively effect the durability and performance of the coating. You would need to properly reapply the coating if this happens.
If you wipe it off too late, it may be difficult to wipe away and could leave streaks/high spots in the coating which will need to be compounded or polished to remove. The coating would then need to be reapplied.
Hi Zach – I just finished detailing my Black Sapphire Metallic 2017 328i. I did a light polish followed by CarPro Essence Extreme topped with CQuartz UK Edition and followed by a top coat of Reload. Amazing results! Quick question though – I have 1/2 a bottle left of the CQuartz and I wish I had put on a second coat. Since I already put on a coat of Reload, can I go back and add a second coat of CQuartz without much trouble? Would a simple wipe down with CarPro Eraser suffice, or should I just forget about the second coat? Thanks.
Hi Mike – at this point I would not attempt a 2nd coat. For best results, CQuartz should only be applied over itself, and since you have used Reload already, your 2nd coat of UK may not properly bond and therefore might just be a waste of product/time. I would recommend using your leftover product on your wheels. CQuartz UK is great on wheels! It also works just fine on trim if you need to protect any plastic pieces.
Good idea! I’ll use it on the wheels. Thanks for the quick reply! Thanks Zach.
I have a 2013 Mercedes C63 AMG in black, that I am going to do a full detail on this weekend. I bought the cquartz classic because I live in Albuquerque NM and afternoon temps been in the 100’s. We have wild temp swings 60’s at night and 100’s in the day so I am planning to do the application in the early morning when its cool. My question is do you think that 50ml is enough for 2 coats ? Thanks!
The 50ml should be more than enough for you to do a second coat. I did one coat on my 2013 GL 450 and there were was at least half a bottle left. So I decided to do the trims and windows. Hope this helps.
As Jerry had mentioned, 50 mL is more than enough to do 2 coats… a 30 mL bottle should be enough to do 2 coats on your sedan. If you have additional product after covering the paint, consider coating your wheels, plastic, and metal components.
I have applied CQuartz in temps in the 90’s with high humidity, so you should be perfectly fine if you can find morning temps in the 70’s.
Hi,Zach.Can i use car pro TriX on a coated car with quart uk edition.I coated my car approx 2 months ago.Thank you .
I am buying products in preparation of applying c.quartz to my car. (c.quartz, Relaod, ironX) On June of this year, (5 Months ago) I had the car detailed and had only CarPro Reload applied to the car as a final step. Now I want to apply the c.quartz for protestion.
I want to ensure that the c.quartz goes on properly. What special care do I need to do before applying the cQuartz? Do I need to remove any remnants of the Reload? Will the IronX do the job?
Thanks in advance for your feedback
Hi Dion – Yes, the paint must be completely bare prior to applying CQuartz. This means any traces of waxes, sealants, polishing residue, etc. must be removed.
The only way to ensure there is nothing left on your paint is to go through a proper decontamination and polishing process. Wash the car, decontaminate the paintwork with chemicals (ie fallout remover and tar remover) and detailing clay, then perform the appropriate paint correction work. If the paint is in outstanding condition, then only perform a light machine polish with a fine finishing polish. Next, wipe the surface thoroughly with CarPro Eraser. Then apply the coating.
Hope that helps!
Looked through the comments and I did not see this mentioned anywhere so I want to see what you think Zach. I applied Cquartz UK back in May. I have noticed in a few spots like on my hood the coating is starting to fail and no longer beading. What would the process look like to just coat those areas? Could I just reapply the coating to the entire car after a good wash and clay or would I need to polisher and remove the old coating before applying over?
First – it is important to realize that water beading is not an indication of whether a coating is or is not present. Water beading is simply a product of high surface tension, and surface tension can be altered by a number of things including environmental contaminants and cleaning chemicals. The fact that certain areas are not beading as well is likely due to contamination.
I would begin by simply performing a thorough washing and decontamination process to see if you can restore the hydrophobic properties. If not, then the easiest way to produce a hydrophobic surface is with a spray sealant like CarPro Reload. I recommend using Reload (or similar products) on a monthly basis for coating maintenance to help maintain a hydrophobic surface and to aid in resistance to dirt and contamination.
If you wish to recoat all or part of the vehicle, the process is the same as it was when you first applied it.
– Polish (a light polish if no defects are present, or proper paint correction if defect removal is needed)
– Solvent Wipe (CarPro Eraser or Alcohol)
– Apply coating
Hope that helps! Let me know if you have any other questions.
I encounter much problem with the flash time
even though i made sure the surface is perfectly dry, and that i am working in low humidity condition and low temperature (19°C). The product is drying too quickly ans i have to buff it before 10 seconds.
What does mean when the rainbow oily colors appear ? does it mean i have already wait too long ?
I encounter much problem with the flash time
even though i made sure the surface is perfectly dry, and that i am working in low humidity condition and low temperature (19°C). The product is drying too quickly ans i have to buff it before 10 seconds.
What does mean when the rainbow oily colors appear ?
does it mean i have already wait too long ?
Hi – In the article I have stated that “…you may need to leave the product to set on the surface for a short period of time or you may proceed with wiping the excess coating away right away. The coating should wipe away cleanly and easily. If it feels “grabby” or is difficult to wipe away then you have probably waited too long before removing. Remember, there is no perfect recipe for application and removal time, the instructions are a good starting point, but it is always wise to do a couple of test spots to determine what works best for you that particular day. You may find your particular environment requires more or less time than what is recommended on the label.”
In many instances, CQuartz UK should be used in relatively small sections and wiped away quickly. If you are using too much product, that may also make it more difficult to remove properly. Make sure you are using clean towels and use several new applicators throughout the installation of the coating.
1. Is Cquartz UK recommended using in Malaysia as our temp around 28 – 34 Celsius.
2. Is Cquartz UK can be apply to white paint?
Hi Zach. My car is coated with CQuartz UK (about a year ago). I noticed some minor swirling, likely from the dealership washes (which I always tell them not to do). I saw a video on another forum that said you can do a light polish with CarPro Essence Extreme and it will not remove the coating. Do you agree? Thanks.
Hi Mike – I cannot agree with that, and here is why… in theory, a nano coating of any kind is exceptionally thin. Some manufacturers throw out numbers for theoretical thickness, and most state that the coating will be around 1 micron (sometimes slightly more or less) in total thickness. Since this is well beyond the threshold that a human eye can detect, we have no way of determining when a coating is or is not present on a painted surface and therefore I cannot recommend using any kind of abrasive on top of a coated surface without the intent of reapplying a coating afterwards. There is simply no way to determine if your polishing process, no matter how fine of a polish you are using, has removed the coating or not. At the very least you have degraded the coating, and in my opinion it is very likely that you may have removed it.
This is why Essence Plus was developed without any abrasive substance and the user is instructed to use the product with a pad that has no cutting ability. This product can safely be used on top of a coating to fill in some defects, but does not have any means of removing any material from the surface and therefore will not remove any of the coating.
Hope that helps!
Great. Thanks, Zach!
Hi. want to coat my chevy colorado 4 door with cquartz uk. I want to do 2 coats how much product would i need? Also how much time between coats.couple of hours or next day.
First off, to answer Richard Hinzpeter’s question, the 30 ml will be enough product to do your vehicle–I have a 2010 Expedition and it took half of the bottle to do 2 coats. My response is to Carpro Cquartz UK 3.0. Prior to doing this, I coated my truck 3 weeks prior with Meguire’s Mirror Glaze Sealer. As such, on the hood and 2 front fenders, I completely stripped it of that sealer wax. Once sure it was all off, although it did not need it, I compounded it with 3M Compound, wiped it down with IPA (alcohol), then polished it with 3M Machine glaze, washed it again, and then one more wipe down with IPA. I thus coated the hood one half at a time and leveled it off as per instructions. Well all was going well, so I decided to continue without all that prep work for the remaining panels of the truck. Didn’t have any problems on the hood with the flash times so, I decided to do one side at a time of the remaining panels before wiping. As such, wiping it down, I did experience a bit more drag, but nothing to get excited about much less what I have heard of smearing. Wiped the first side down and then proceeded to do the second side–same experience. A word of note, this was done outside with no protection at all on a cloudy day around 65-70 degrees F. Put a blanket on the hood to protect it from night-time moisture and the rest had to sink or swim. Was able to keep dry for the 48 hour max before it got wet–46 if you want specifics as it did rain on it. Should have done the proper prep on all the panels but, I wanted to see the what if side of it and when it got wet where I didn’t prep it properly, all the paint fell off–HA, HA, Just kidding. Although, I realize that in the long run, where I did not prep properly, it will probably not last as well but, it has only been a month and I can’t tell the difference at this point. So, suffice it to say, if you get anywhere close to manufacturer’s recommendations, you will be satisfied with this product. The hydro-shedding was as good as any video you have seen on this product; however, after I got it dirty, I stopped by the carwash and rinsed the road-film off and no beading! Took the truck home the next day and washed it down and miraculously beading was back. So, in summary, I find this product hard to mess up in the installation of it but, I only waited about 30 minutes to wipe it off and don’t recommend going longer than that. Although I don’t have proof but, I am certain, it will not make the finish scratch or bullet proof, this coating seems to do everything promised (especially ease of application) and only time will tell how long it will last installed properly and improperly.
Question: Is using Reload a requirement after c.quartz? What happens if you don’t use Reload after c.quartz application? What is the purpose of Reload?