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15 comments on How to Properly Debadge a Vehicle

  1. Eric T. says:

    Nice article! That last shot is actually pretty neat…one issue I think should be addressed though is usually the larger badges (like the manufacturers logo) are set in with pegs and there are holes so people should be careful so as not to have exposed holes on various areas of the car.

  2. A says:

    nice…or just pour hot water over the numbers, then take floss to run it through…if there is glue left just use some glue-gone and you’re done. doesn’t damage paint

  3. Jeff K says:

    As I work for a luxury dealership, we seldom receive requests to remove the badges. However, at least on new vehicles, we’ve had great luck with a heat-gun and some dental floss. No “ghosting” whatsoever, but these are new MY vehicles. Love the DI info posts…keep em coming! J.

  4. Ivan Rajic says:

    Thanks for the comments guys!

    Eric: This article is focused on the badges usually found on the trunk, which are adhered on using typical adhesive as shown above. Those “main” badges with the little pegs and/or screws are completely different and those looking to get rid of these badges should definitely expect some body work to fill in the holes and repaint the area.

    A: I never tried the hot water method, but I guess it should work. Thanks for the info.

    Jeff: As you said, on new vehicles it will be a much better result without any ghosting, but my car is simply too old and the paint was never cared for properly, so it resulted in the ghosting.

    • Aurelius says:

      Hi Ivan, following your post I went ahead and removed all badges on the rear trunk of a 2012 sentra but like mentioned above the nissan badge had two pegs in it. a bodyshop said the cost would be $350 to weld holes and respray the paint lid, of course this will never match the rest of the paint.
      would you recommend these holes just be bondoed and airbrushed ? what should i expect the cost of the hole fill be then.

      • Ivan Rajic says:

        Hi Aurelius,

        I wouldn’t be so quick to dismiss the paint matching if the shop resprays the entire trunk, especially since the car is brand new. I would actually be more reluctant to do the bondo and airbrushing as that will not only potentially fail but also might not match well with the rest of the trunk.

        I’m really not sure about the costs of filling the holes either way, but to answer your question, I would much rather go with the weld/repaint option vs the bondo and blend paint just a small section of the trunk.

        Hope that helps.

        • Tony Kiger says:

          As for the trunk I would go with the welding, however being a 2012 vehicle I see this as potentially voiding warranty or any further repairs that may occur with the trunk or surroundings. If painted I would look for a good shop, even though it is a new car pending on the paint and experience the colors could still be off and blending could be visible if not tape lines. With the use of bondo you will normally see a wave or texture difference and longevity is usually limited.

  5. jeff says:

    could always just reapply the badges and save money–

  6. Dan Meyer says:

    Great write up and pictures! That ghosting you see can be sanded with 3000 grit wet/dry paper and compounded / polished even on vehicles of that age. Even though the clear coat may not have been as thick as you may have been comfortable with, it is on a vertical trunk surface on an older vehicle. If care and time is taken that ghosting could be removed.

  7. Richard Carter says:

    My experience has been that repainting never matches factory output. The batches are different, the manufacturer of the paint could be different, and the method of application is certainly different from the factory application. With all the different types of lighting, angles, and weathering, it will never be the same as the original and will be detectable; if not today, sometime in the future.

    Personally, I’d go to the dealer and purchase a new badge, install it, and call it a day.

  8. Daniel says:

    I don’t like the current design of badges on cars I feel they’re 1980 and should have there appearance updated. Maybe a inset of sorts and lose the chrome.

  9. joseph andrews says:

    A good product for removing little stick-on mirrors, stickers, and badges: WD-40. Spray on, let sit, it will soften the glue so you can remove the badge or sticker. It may take a few applications.WD=40 will not hurt the paint.
    I’ve also used this to remove the new cement used for gluing new weather stripping to a car’s openings!
    It removes the overflow for a nice clean professional look and does not hurt the paint too.

  10. This was a 20 year old car, what about a 10 year old car? Do you think there’s less chance of “ghosting” ?

    • Ivan Rajic says:

      The newer the car, the less chance for ghosting. However you never really know as there are other variables that come into play (how much it sits outside, how well it’s maintained/washed, etc.

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