Product Review: Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0by Chad Raskovich
Introduction to Opti-Coat
About two years ago I began hearing rumors of a great new technology that was going to forever change how we look at paint protection. The sources talked about things like a “permanent coating,” never needing to wax again, how paint would readily shed away dirt and oil, how the product would offer better scratch and mar resistance, better UV resistance, how it wouldn’t oxidize, and would yield much better gloss retention. To be honest, I laughed at the idea myself, having worked for a company that applied those car care packages hocked by new-car dealers like a carney at the circus. I immediately thought that this miraculous new product was just another one of those gimmick paint sealants that need regular re-application to keep the warranty valid…boy was I wrong!
Enter Optimum Opti-Coat!
It was a dark and stormy night in 2004, when, in a laboratory hidden deep underground, a mad scientist obsessed with polymer technology started developing and testing Opti-Coat…Ok, so maybe it wasn’t really an underground laboratory, and that mad scientist was actually David Ghodoussi from Optimum Polymer Technologies, but that development and testing continued on for another 3+ years before Optimum was ready to unleash this amazing new product in 2008. However, this was no ordinary product release and unless you had been following along on the Optimum forum during the late stages of development, you probably would never have even heard of Opti-Coat. There was no marketing for this product, it was not being offered to the general public, and there was no information about it on Optimum’s web page. In fact, it was only available to approved professional detailers who signed a waiver acknowledging they understood the application process and risks.
As pro detailers began getting their hands on Opti-Coat and testing it for themselves, word quickly spread across the detailing network like wildfire! Although I had seen a few posts shortly after its release, I wasn’t ready to jump on the bandwagon. It wasn’t until I started to see rave reviews about the product by other very reputable pro detailers, those who I’ve come to know very well and who’s opinion I held in high regard, that my interest was piqued. In June of 2010, I ordered up my first syringe of Opti-Coat and applied it to my car. After 15 months of having this fantastic product on my car I can honestly say it has far surpassed my expectations!
Where can I order it?
After all that build-up, I’m sorry to say that because of it’s very nature, Opti-Coat is still only available to professional detailers. Opti-Coat is a permanent coating and it is not applied like a traditional wax or sealant. Once it’s cured the only way to remove Opti-Coat is by polishing, sanding, or with the use of paint removers. Because of its impervious property, IPA, Prep-Sol, Detergents, degreasers, or other chemical cleaners will not affect the coating. While the application process is very similar to Opti-Seal, when applying Opti-Coat you must ensure that it levels out before it cures (and it cures fast), because once it sets, it’s not coming off. Obviously this could pose a significant liability in the hands of the general public, which is why it’s only available to pro detailers.
Enter Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0
As more and more pro detailers posted their experiences with Opti-Coat, the general public car/detailing enthusiast became increasingly frustrated that they could not obtain the product. Well, the great folks over at Optimum Polymer Technologies were listening the entire time and they spent the next 3 years secretly tweaking the formula. The changes would make application easier and more user friendly for the consumer market. In Spring of 2011 Optimum officially released the consumer version of the coating! (drumroll, please……) It is called Opti-Coat 2.0 and, as promised, it is available to the general public! 🙂
Opti-Coat 2.0 has all the same exceptional qualities of the pro version (now named Opti-Guard), but it cures more slowly, thereby giving the user more time to level out any areas where the product might have been applied too heavily.
So what is Opti-Coat 2.0 and what’s so special about it?
Opti-Coat is a one component moisture cure clear coat much like a one-component moisture cure isocyanates paint. Once it is applied, just like other clear coats, there is no need to add boosters or other maintenance products to replenish it.
Opti-Coat vs. Urethane clears
- Much better scratch and Mar resistance
- Much better release properties (readily sheds dirt and oil)
- Much better UV resistance (no yellowing over time)
- Much better gloss retention
- Does not oxidize (will continue to bead water and release dirt for years).
David Ghodoussi, CEO
Optimum Polymer Technologies, Inc
I can say that this product has been a blessing for me and my clients! Since I have a full-time career and only detail on the weekends, I’m often left with very little time to care for my own vehicle. Now that my vehicle is coated with Opti-Coat it stays cleaner longer, attracts less dust, shows reduced marring, makes washing and drying a snap, and best of all it frees up more time for doing other things in my life. I no longer need to spend half a day washing and waxing my car every week, not that there’s anything wrong with that, but I simply just don’t have the time anymore. I also applied Opti-Coat to my wife’s car. Her busy schedule doesn’t afford me much more than a few washes a year and I wanted to preserve the look and life of her paint as much as possible. The time-saving feature of Opti-Coat is truly a benefit and a strong selling point for many of my clients.
Most importantly, I feel Opti-Coat is revolutionary for both consumers and the detailing community. By offering this product to our clients we are, in a sense, offering a renewable clear coat, but with much better properties. I’ve been using this information to help sell Opti-Coat to my clients for a while, but it is especially important for clients with new cars sporting very thin OEM paint (80-90 microns). Even though this is a permanent coating, I really don’t try to sell it as such. Instead, I educate the customer about the product and highlight the benefits, including that future polishing will remove less OEM paint, since the majority of light swirling and marring will be in the coating. I also like to explain that Opti-Coat offers increased UV protection to replenish the small amount potentially removed during polishing.
Application and Paint Prep
Prior to application of the coating you will want to get the paint corrected to your desired level of finish. Once you coat the paint you shouldn’t do any aggressive polishing because of the possibility that you will compromise the coating, so get it looking good before you apply! You should consider washing, claying, and/or polishing to remove any unsightly swirling or marring. Once you have the vehicle looking up to snuff, ensure all polishing oils are removed. There are several ways to do this but I utilize a foam cannon mixed with a solution of Optimum Power Clean and Chemical Guy’s Citrus Wash. First, I rinse the car really well, then I spray it down with the foam cannon and leave it to dwell for a few minutes. Next, I wash the car using the 2BM and Chemical Guy’s Citrus Wash as my soap, mixed at the paint prep ratio. Rinse and dry the vehicle. Finally, once the vehicle is dry I do an IPA (isopropyl alcohol, 15% mixture) wipe-down to ensure that absolutely all oils are removed. (Note: If you’re using Optimum’s latest polishes, all that is needed after polishing is to wipe the panel down with some water and a soft MF towel…Although, I’ll usually give the car a wash anyway).
What surfaces can I apply the coating to?
- Painted Surfaces
- Plastic trim
Note: Optimum does not officially recommend Opti-Coat 2.0 on glass surfaces. Basically, it can interfere with clarity or slightly blur your view if it doesn’t even out or if you’re left with high spots. However, if the application is done properly there should be no issue and I’ve successfully applied it to the glass on numerous vehicles.
Now that you’ve got the car all prepped, please see the below video for my method on application.
Here is another video showing what you have to look forward to once your car is coated with Opti-Coat! 🙂
Tips / Closing Thoughts
Although I love Opti-Coat 2.0, this product is not for everyone; for those of you out there who like to wax/seal your car often, you might want to skip Opti-Coat. If you aren’t sure of your skills in removing defects through polishing, this may not be your optimal solution. However, if you do want it applied to your car I suggest finding a reputable detailer with application experience.
- If you give application a shot on your own, you may find high spots in the paint after the coating has cured. You can simply level these areas off by polishing with Poli-Seal or Optimum Finish, or you can re-polish the entire panel and try applying the coating again. For an example of what high spots look like, please see the photos below.
- Opti-Coat 2.0 cannot be layered as it will not bond to itself. If you want to reapply the coating you will need to perform a light/moderate polishign of the paint for it to adhere properly, much like sanding a surface before it’s painted.
- Opti-Coat 2.0 comes in a 20cc syringe. This should be enough to coat 2 mid-size cars. On average I use 6-8cc of product to coat all paint, trim, glass, and wheels of a car that is about the size of a Camry or and Accord.
- I suggest wearing nitrile or latex gloves as well as eye protection during the use of this product.
- The most common question I’m asked is, “can I top it with another wax, sealant, or detail spray?” While the answer is yes, it really defeats the purpose of the coating as the paint will temporarily take on the properties of whatever product you use. I also say “temporarily” because waxes and sealants aren’t able to bond to the coating like they can to well-prepped paint. While they may improve the overall look and feel of the paint for a short time, the durability of these additional products will be reduced significantly.
Examples of high spots after improper Opti-Coat 2.0 application:
In conclusion, although it may not be for everyone, I love Opti-Coat for my family cars and for the majority of my clients!
Quick question about the IPA (isopropyl alcohol, 15% mixture). Does the IPA need to be 99% or will a 70% IPA work. I’m guessing this is the same IPA you can pick up at CVS.
You can use either one. Simply add the IPA to a spray bottle with water to get an approximate 15% solution. Also, I should add that if you have very scratch sensitive paint, testing the IPA on a panel first is recommended. On some softer paints you can pick up light marring during the IPA wipe-down. For those paint types I will skip the IPA wipe-down and spend more time on the washing side to ensure all oils are removed. If you don’t have a foam cannon you can mix Optimum Power Clean at 3:1 in a spray bottle. Spray a few panels at a time, let it dwell for a bit, then wash those panels and move on to the next section. Once the paint stops beading water you should be good to go. 😉
Hope this helps,
I had opticoat installed 3 weeks ago by a dealer on my 15 black mustang. I would like to install vinyl graphics and will need to clean area with alcohol before application. Will that remove the opticoat?
No. Alcohol will not remove the Opti-Coat. The only way to remove it with with sanding or polishing.
Hi Chad, I just wanted to say excellent article! Thank you!
Thanks Corey! 🙂
Very interesting…and very tempting for the wife’s cars. I am not sure that I would do this one myself, instead maybe I’ll have you do the first one. I am not so worried about the Mercedes Daimond White, but the BMW Jet Black would have to be PERFECT (which I can’t do) before applying the Opti-Coat. I’ll be in touch!
Jet Black is a prime candidate for Opti-Coat since it scratches so easily. 😉
Thanks so much for getting this article up fast, I have been waiting for this anxiously (I had asked you about it on autopia earlier this week) GREAT article, everything I was looking for. Loved the videos too, really cleared some things up. I have heard the water sheeting method explained but that video really made things click as to how to do it and how great it works. Few questions for you if you don’t mind:
1. I know the MF towel is junk after you use it but will it stay good for the whole car or will it start to catalyze and cause marring near the end of application? How about the applicatior itself? And where do I get more applicators from? I guess I am just thinking if I have enough product to do two full size cars (on separate days) I will need at least 2 applicators, plus if I wanted to do some headlights or a windshield here and there I would need more right? Are there other things that can be used to apply opti-coat? Or does DI sell other applicators that would work?
2. Do you have a MF towel recommendation for softer paints like Nathan’s jet black? I will be doing an Acura nighthawk black pearl and marring during coating after all that correction would pretty much ruin my day.
“you guys should check out Opti-Coat, stuff’s badass man” AWESOME article Chad. Thanks a ton
If you clean the applicator and MF towels right away after applying the coating you can use them again. I personally toss the applicators, but you can use them again if you choose. I’ve been cleaning them with OPC and CGCW…I have a bucket ready before I start the coating process. I can usually do the whole car with one applicator unless it pics some debris up along the way, or if I drop it, which happens more often than I’d like to admit. 🙂 I coat in the following order; Paint, trim, lights, glass, wheels. You can play around with different applicators too. The foam one it comes with is nice, but others have tried MF applicators and they seem to like them as well. DI has some yellow foam ones that I’ve used, but IMO they don’t work as well as the ones Optimum gives you. If you can find a local store that caries the Meguiar’s Yellow Foam Applicators I think they are similar to the one Optimum gives you.
As far as what MF towels to use, I have been using the black DI all Purpose towels lately. The Great White towels are awesome for just about everything, but they are more money too. Short nap towels seem to work best. Do the CD test or simply try them on the paint before you coat to be sure they are safe, but I ave not had any issues yet. I did a black A5 a few weeks ago that was very scratch sensitive and they worked great on that car.
LOL…I’ve had a few people suggest I have T-Shirts made with that quote on them! It really just came out! 🙂
Hope this helps,
How long do the hydrophobic qualities last with opti 2.0?
Some of the test vehicles for the original Opti-Coat are going on over 3 years and still beading strong! I would expect the same outcome with Opti-Coat 2.0 with proper care. 😉
Awesome review and great video. I’m interested in using said product on windows, headlights, and trim. Do you have a particular method of application for Windows (specially front windshield?
Also, I’ll be polishing my front headlights before application; my questions is how long will the coating last on them?
Thanks much in advance for your response…
The application for all areas should be the same. However, by the time I’m done coating the paint my applicator is well saturated and I often don’t need to add much more product, maybe a drop or two and that’s it. Just make sure you go over the glass with a MF towel to ensure there are no high spots.
The coating should last for years on all surfaces. Several users have some very well documented testing showing 2+ years of protection. A fellow detailer and good friend, David Fermani, leased a brand new Ford Focus and he only coated one side of the vehicle! I mean he literlaly ran tape from front to back and coated everything on the drivers side! He then subjected the car to weekly Dawn washes and occasional touchless washes for over 2 years. He recently turned the car back in but at the end of the 2 years lease Opti-Coat was clearly still there and offering great protection. The one exception would be the front windshield. Several users have noted that over time the wipers will slowly abrade away the coating as a result of repeated friction. How long it takes would depend on several conditions, but mainly the amount of use they see.
Hope this helps,
How strong UV block there is? Is it good enough to keep red paint to red all time that there is product?
SM…I honestly have no idea of the UV blocker content and it may actually be proprietary information. You can trying contacting Optimum though if you like.
I am a newbie to the detail world, but I have been reading a lot lately (still not practising…).
Here in Europe I have found a brand (G Techniq) and two products (GTechniq C1 Crystal Lacquer and GTechniq G1 ClearVision Smart Glass) that seem to do exactly what the Opti-Coat does.
I haven’t red any reviews of the G Techniq products in this website: since I am on a buying mode, I wonder if you can tell if they are no good or they are simply not imported to the US and they aren’t known around there. If you know them, could you please compare them with Opti-Coat?
Thanks in advance for your comments,
I do actually have GTechniq C1 and Marc/Jacob from Auto Lavish have used it as well. Since GTechniq is not a product line Detailed Image carries, you probably won’t see much talk on the blog about them. While the chemical make-up is different between C1 and Opti-Coat, both will offer similar qualities. I’ve only tried the C1 a couple times but I was having some issues getting it to level out and I do prefer to use the Opti-Coat. Hopefully Marc or Jacob will chime in with there C1 experience too.
I think you would be happy with either product though. 😉
Great article and review Chad! It’s valuable information like this, provided by true professionals such as yourself, that will help educate the entire industry…both professionals and enthusiasts alike.
Thanks Todd! 🙂
Thanks for the thorough write-up Chad. God insight on the IPA marring soft paints, I came to realize that lately while working on the SL65 Black Series (PITA).
That’s also one advantage to using Optimums latest polishes as they won’t interfere with the bonding of Opti-Coat, so the extra prep (IPA) is unnessasary. I just coated a G37x this last weekend and I used Optiumum polishes and it made things easier/faster. 😉
Excellent and well thought out article, thank you for taking the time to put it together JonM
Thanks Jon! Nice to see you on the blog too! 😉
Excellent writeup! Do you see any issues with applying this over a paint protection film like 3M? V/r, Mike
Optimum approves the use of Opti-Coat on PPF and I’ve applied it to several cars with it, including my own, without issue. Makes bug removal a snap too. 😉
Awesome! My wheels were refinished and they had a ‘dry’ clear coat put on them. 3 of them, the other wheel was fine. Well that one wheel with PoorBoy’s Wheel Wax is ALWAYS easy to clean, the other 3, even with coat after coat, are never easy. I plan on putting this on the wheels and then I can top it with the poorboys wax. BMW = brake dust city. Well, this looks to solve my problem for a MUCH cheaper price then getting them refinished and clear’d with a proper clear coat. Awesome review! Cant wait to get to next spring when the wheels are off, cleaned, buffed and ready to be applied!
Quick question though…
When you say “dry clear” that concerns me a little. Does the inside of the wheel feel rough to the touch and look dull? Or is it smooth like the face of the wheel? Since my father is a body man/painter, when I hear “dry clear”, it actually makes me think of what’s called “dry spray”, where the clear dries before landing on the surface to be painted. This is not a desired effect and usually leaves the surface rough feeling, almost like fine sand paper. If the barrels do have what’s known as “dry spray”, dirt will want to cling to the rough surface and even with Opti-Coat on them, it may be very difficult to clean. If this is the case, I’d suggest bringing the wheels back and demanding they be refinished properly.
Hope this helps,
What is the ideal temp for applying the product. I’m picking up my BMW 1M from SC on 11/28 and I’m hoping to apply it the following week. Of course….after wash, clay, and polish (m205). I live just across the river from St Louis. Too bad you weren’t any closer.
I’ve applied it in temps ranging from 60 to about 95 degrees and I’d have to say it’s more workable at or near room temperature. I mainly work with the pro version, but I feel cures noticeably faster when it’s hot and humid. Opti-Coat 2.0 does cure slower so it’s pretty easy at any temp, but if at all possible, I’d say apply it when it’s on the cooler side. 😉
I can apply the product in my garage (non heated), but the outside temps may be 40-50 degrees in the afternoon. I just don’t want to apply the product if it’s too cold, then risk hazing or not curing. I’ve searched the Internet and haven’t found the absolute lowest application temp yet.
Sorry for the late reply, Mike. I was told by Optimum that it’s best to stay above 50 degrees. It could be possible to apply it at slightly lower temps, but it didn’t sound like there had been any real testing on doing it so I would stick with the recommendation of 50+.
Can you recommend a detailer in Colorado? I do not have the desire to do this myself, nor do I have the attention to detail.
I will ask around Stacy as I can’t think of anyone in that area right now…
Contact Man Cave Detail in Denver Colorado who carries Opticoat. Man Cave Detail was Voted Best Detail shop in Denver the last 2 years. http://www.mancavedetail.com or 303.279.7333
Great article Chad.
I just learned of this product and want to apply it on my new Honday Odyssey. I just got it yesterday. So I am assuming that I really don’t need to prep the paint. Just wash and dry it if I am not mistaken. Please correctly if I’m wrong.
I live in Michigan and I just ordered the product today. Temps are starting to drop. Do you think I would be good at applying this stuff at about upper 40s to lower 50s F temps?
The only thing you “have” to do is make sure the surface is free of wax and oils. However, 99% of the new cars I see need at least some amount of claying/polishing to bring them to their max potential. To get the most out of the coating I would at least clay the paint and check for any swirls that may need to be removed by polishing.
As far as temps go, try and stay above 50 degrees.
Its nice to see such an objective point of view! Very easy to follow and understand.
I cannot wait to apply it onto my truck this weekend!!
Just a question regarding application of Opti-Coat 2.0 after paint correction detail and if your using OPT all the way products from OPT Compound II up to Poli Seal then last Opti Seal. Question is do I still have to go thru with OPC and IPA wipe down before Opti-Coat 2.0 Application? Cheers
If you are using Optimums “newest” polishes (Compound II, Polish II, Finish or Spray Polishes) the only thing you should need to do is wipe the car down with a damp MF towel. Since Poli-Seal and Opt-Seal offer protection I don’t believe you’d want to use either of those prior to applying Opti-Coat as they would likely interfere with the bonding.
Also, at this time I don’t believe Detailed Image is carrying the latest Optimum polishes and I’m not sure if the older ones can be used with Opti-Coat the same as the new versions. The new Optium polishes work very well (great work time, no dusting, excellent finish) and they are a HUGE time saver for Opti-Coat jobs, not to mention they reduce the chance of marring associated with IPA wipe-downs. However, they were a little harder to wipe off for me in the hot/humid part of summer (have been great since this fall) which may or may not be an issue with your region. The new versions of the Hyper Spray Polish/Compound work great too! The newest versions can be ordered directly from Optimum for now and they will have a gold sticker on them that reads “New Formula”.
Hope this helps,
Thanks for the tips i am using all range of OPT New Formula products… also the spray on hyper compound and hyper polish works perfect. What are your OPT step products on a jet black paint with no maintenance for a year car full of scratches and deep watermarks.
It’s been a while since I’ve done a jet black beemer and I haven’t had a chance to try Optimum polishes on one either. That being said I would simply evaluate the finish and try a few test spots out, starting with the least aggressive. Knowing how soft/touchy jet black is, I think it’s safe to assume you’ll need to finish with the Optimum Finish, but see how Hyper Polish or Polish II looks first. You can also check out my “Assessing paint” article if you haven’t seen that yet. 🙂
If you have any other questions feel free to shoot me an email. 😉
Thanks for the link. Ive tried The spray on hyper comp, Hyper polish to Poli-seal and last touch with Opti- Clean – Five combo o what an amazing results just before opti-coat 2.0 on a jet black. Here in the Philippines the weather is tropical and has a different humidity. We get the most the time super hard to remove grime on small gapped areas. This is where detailers get stuck on there work by removing them but I found a technic on how to remove them without a scratch. Most people use to wash there cars are heavy water. Majority doesn’t know the effects on the paint. Good thing they have me here. Cheers.
Will send you email of my works from 😀
Chad I also found the best applicator for opti-coat 2.0. So thin and economical. I found it inside a new dish washing paste that comes with it. You just have to wash it with alot of Optimum Power Clean to remove all soap elements and dry them properly before the use of OC 2.0 😀
How long does it take to fully cure? I realize that it depends on the weather, but from what I have read, it seems like it cures relatively quick. I was discussing steps that could be taken to get wheels cleaned and protected and suggested this as a possible option for a potential client that is obsessed with how the wheels look. Having not used this product before, I told him an estimate for curing, but I would like something more concrete.
Does anyone know of a qualified detailer in Jacksonville or Saint Augustine FL that uses the Opti-coat?
I can’t think of anyone that I know personally that services that far north, but I know of several detailers closer to Orlando and further South. I’ll ask around though…
I’m realizing I may have to drive a bit so anyone in Flordia or Georiga would be good. Contact information so i can look them up would be great. Thank You
Just came across this info. I recently purchased a 2012 Hyundai Veloster and want to protect the best I can. Opti-coat looks like it might be the way. Do you know any detailers in omaha, ne area that use it?
Sorry Paul, I was unable to find a reputable detailer near you. 🙁
What kind of surface prep should you do for a brand new car? I don’t have a polisher so can only apply products by hand. What should I use before the Opti-coat. This is for a silver Audi A4. Thanks.
Not all new cars will be in the same condition so it really varies on how much work they will need. At the very least I would say a good wash, claying, and very light polish. If the dealer washed it or detailed it prior to delivery it will likely need more work. If the car sat on the lot for a while it will also likely need more work.
Honestly, I really don’t recommend applying the Opti-Coat yourself unless you have some knowledge in polishing with a DA or rotary. If you mess up the application you need to know how to remove it, which means polishing.
Hope this helps,
I have a 2012 honda crv, black, about 1 month old. I am ready to apply opti-coat in the next few
days and have one main question, When speaking of doing a panel at a time, how do I handle
the top? Is there enough time to coat without lapping?
Also, do you know of a detailer around Easton MD.
Thanks for being here (or there)
You will ave enough time with the OC 2.0 where you can overlap on the hood, roof, trunk. Just make sure you do one half and then go right to doing the other half. If you watch my application video I actually do the hood in two sections.
I can’t think of anyone in the Easton MD area off hand, but I will ask around. DJ Mayo is the closest to you I can think of right now so maybe shoot him an email. 😉
Is this adhesion of Opti-guard just as good on the other surfaces (headlights, tail pipes, windows) as it is on the paint? Can it be used in the interior of the car? Any warnings/causations other than high spots, in applying too areas other than paint surface? Any questions to ask a detailer in determining if they are a quality detailer in applying this product?
Sorry about the late reply on this one…guess I must have missed it. 🙁
From my experience it seems to hold up well on all solid exterior surface. Keep in mind though that your front wiper blades will slowly abrade away the coating over time.
Do not use it on interior surfaces! I do know that Optimum is working on a similar interior product so keep checking back on this one.
The only other caution I’d throw out there on other surfaces is that when used on black plastic trim, just know it’s NOT coming off. Unlike paint which can be polished to remove the coating, as far as I know there is no way to remove it from trim like textured black plastic.
I would be leery of any detailer who has never applied it before. I did plenty of testing on my personal cars long before working on a clients vehicle. That being said, it is very easy to use and any knowledgeable detailer should be able to handle the application. If you want you can always shoot me an email and I’d be happy to try and locate a reputable pro in your area.
Hope this helps,
Great article; thanks much. I applied the 2.0 to my nearly new Blaze Yellow Focus, after appropriate prep. work. Very easy to use; I followed the video. It became obvious fairly quickly what “high spots” looked like, and I was able to level those out easily before curing. After four hours, the whole car looks great.
Rasky, great write up. A few questions:
is this ideal to do on a 10 yr old black car? What happens if this is done over some swirls?
When you say polish, are you referring to type of polish wax or detail? just want to make sure.
also, i have a new dark cherry red honda odyssey…if the opti is applied does the car remain smooth or would that require waxing. thanks!
I feel this product is idea for any car where the owner doesn’t want to spend the time needed to maintain or worry about waxing the finish regularly. If the coating is applied over a finish that is swirled or scratched it will basically “lock in” those defects, making it more difficult to remove them later on. The coating itself is permanent and it will add a measurable thickness to the paint (1-4 microns), meaning you will have to polish through the coating before you’d get to the defects previously in the paint. This is why we strongly stress having the paint polished to perfection or to a level that you are happy with prior to application.
When I say “polish” I mean using whatever level of abrasive product is required to get the finish 100% defect free, or to a level that you are happy with. This will depend of the condition of the car and could be anything from a very light finishing polish to a multiple step major correction. You wouldn’t really want to use a product/polish with a wax in it, as that could interferer with the bonding of the coating and you’d have to take extra measures in ensuring all wax was removed prior to coating.
As for the Odyssey, Opti-Coat does not have a slick or smooth feeling to it like a traditional wax or sealant will have. In fact, it feel just like clean, bare paint on a car which has no protection at all. If you long for that nice slick/smooth feeling to your paint, you can top it with another product, but to be honest, that sort of defeats the purpose of the coating and you temporarily loose out on Opti-Coats unique attributes.
Hope this helps,
Thanks Rasky for your quick reply. I’m beginning to understand all this a lot better. Do you know or can recommend anyone to polish and Opti Coat in San francisco?
Thanks. hope to read more blogs from you in the future.
Just curious if you knew of a low end port cable that i could potentially buy and try out. Seems like most are $100 +
Great write up, I just discovered this product after a long search to figure out what to do with my 2011 M3… I took euro delivery, did the 1200 mile service in Munich, and the dealer there scratched in the auto car wash (spider web style scratches all over the car), so I need to polish it and then get this stuff put on. It rains a lot in Seattle, there’s lot of road crud and you know how BMW brakes are on wheels.
Anyway, do you have anyone you can recommend in the Seattle/Redmond/Bellevue area in Washington state ? I’d love to find someone that’ll polish the paint to perfect, and apply the Opti product.
Best, and thanks in advance
Sorry for the late reply on this one, been super busy lately.
For the Seattle area John Kleven is definitely going to be your go to guy.
Hope this helps,
Excellent review/write up. I’ll be using Chemical Guys “Swirl Be Gone” polish with Flex 3401 to remove the swirls. My question is do I still need to degrease the paint before applying Opti Coat?
BTW: Can you recommend someone in San Francisco area?
Yes, you will need to make sure the paint is free of all polishing oils before applying the Opti-Coat.
You have at least two solid options in the bay area.
Hope this helps,
Thanks Chad. Much appreciated!
in your experience, what has the maintenance been like after applying OC 2.0? can iron and other particles still embed themselves after an application of OC 2.0? will claying remove them? can you even clay after OC 2.0 is applied?
what about a product like Iron-X from CarPro? can it be used to remove the iron particles after OC 2.0 and not harm it? i’ve seen videos of Iron-X being applied to cars coated with CQuartz (another product i’m considering) and it supposedly doesn’t affect the CQuartz coating.
Yes, things can and will still bond to the coating, but you will likely see a reduction in the amount of bonded surface contaminants having Opti-Coat on the vehicle. However, unlike traditional waxes and sealants which can be compromised by chemical cleaners such as TarX and IronX, Opti-Coat is impervious to them. Regular washing will keep the contaminants to a minimum, but if you do start to see them I’d suggest trying cleaners like the TarX and IronX before claying. You can definitely clay over Opti-Coat, but you always risk the chance of induce light marring when claying (depends on your paint). You can also go over the paint with light cleaner polishes like Poli-Seal by hand to help keep the paint free of bonded defects. With regular care the coating will last a very, very long time.
I’m heading out now to prep my new car for Opti-Guard application. 😉
Thanks Chad; that’s good to know. and congrats on your new car! 🙂
Anyone know of a professional detailer (specialist in Opti products only) in the UK?
Preferably in the south or south east; any names, links?
Question: my paint is fairly oxidized (20yrs old). I can bring it back with polishing, but it only lasts a month or two, even with washing and waxing. Opti-Coat seems like the ideal product to keep the rich color after polishing locked in for good. Thing is, if I hit the paint with a degreaser, it’ll turn chalky again. Not sure about wiping down with alcohol. Any suggestions on how I can prep the paint for Opti-Coat while keeping a freshly polished appearance?
While OC can be used on single stage paints, I have not used it on that paint type yet and I have not seen any long term testing either. I would think it would definitely help, but with the paint that far gone I’m not sure how long it would last. You’re best bet would be to polish it out using Optimums line of polishes, and then simply give it a quick ONR wash and go right to coating. By Using Optimum polishes you will not have to worry about an alcohol wipe-down. I would love to get some feedback on it though if you do decide to go that route. Shoot me an email if you do decide to coat it though. I’m sure Dr.G would be interested in any feedback as well. 😉
Thanks for the feedback! I’ll give this a shot, probably next month. Should be interesting to see how it holds up against FL rain, since it washes polish away fast, even when it’s under wax.
Good info, Chad.
I was wondering how the gloss compares to a good wax/sealant?
Any tips using this on bmw sapphire black? I’m pressed for time so my plan is to do one panel per weekend (Mask/compound/polish/coat) in a single sitting. Will probably take over a month but I hope at the end everything won’t look mismatched!
The gloss is more sealant like IMO and kind of give a “glassy” look. Some waxes/sealants may give a better look but that will always be determined by the individual. 😉
It should only take you 30-60 minutes to coat the car so I would suggest getting it all polishes and just doing it all at once.
I just found out that Opti-Coat 2.0 CAN be layered. This is a direct quote from an email I received from David Ghodoussi, CEO of Optimum Coating Technologies, Inc.
“We modified Opti-Coat 2.0 so that it takes longer to fully cure and hence can be layered within the first 4 weeks of the initial application. Once the coating is fully cured, it will repel itself which will be very visible.”
I think it would be helpful if you updated the guide.
Yes, OC 2.0 can be layered for up to 30 days, as that’s how long it will take to fully cure. Temperature will be a factor though so I would suggest doing it sooner than later. Layer wasn’t an intended change by Optimum, in fact it was something they simply discovered at SEMA last November while demonstrating the product on a test hood. Keep in mind that with the Opti-Guard you will have a much smaller window to layer the coating. You’re also not going to see any real benefit from doing so (other than a thicker layer) and after a few layers it may actually start to get cloudy…I think Chris said it was 4 or 5 layers when he noticed it.
As far as the article I actually don’t have the ability to modify them once their published, but I’ll see if Todd or someone else can modify it for me. 😉
Can this be layered if the car has already been driven with the first coat having already been on for ~36 hours? I have a Mitsubishi Evo and the hood has a few of vents for intake/heat vents. That being said the hood gets very hot, hood is aluminum and the car is turbo charged. I drove the car once since the initial application, in ~75f degree heat, hood gets to about 140-150 in this ambient temp, while in a closed garage, after a drive. It will stay that hot in the garage at night for ~4 hours while the turbo/engine sheds heat. When you say, ‘up to 30 days’, are those 30 days of normal driving or up to 30 days if the car was just sitting there post initial application? Sorry if this is very un clear, its super late 🙁
I just want to use up the rest of my OC2.0 on the front end/roof/lower verticals. I believe you said you can apply this up to 30 days, with a max layering of ~4x within that 30 days. Had all the sites had your knowledge and updated the description of the product, I would have bought 2 at the same time. I have a much different approach than a normal detailer, where I put this on my car specifically for the extra layer of protection, I could care less about the properties of the coating i.e. beading/release characteristics, that is just a huge extra bonus for me. Im in it for the actual ~1-4 microns of Si-C lol
Thanks in advance
btw forgot to mention how great of a review that was.
Ideally if one were to layer the coating it would be back to back before driving, simply because you risk picking something up on the paint along the way. If it’s only been 36 hours I’d say you should be good to go, but just know there are many factors involved in the curing and there is no sure way to tell when it’s fully cured. had you said it’s been 2-3 weeks I’d probably suggest a light polish first. The 30 days is just an approximate number that Optimum has been telling people. I’d say test out one panel first to see if you have any issues, if not, proceed in doing the rest of the car.
And thank you for the feedback on the article. 🙂
I want to make my paint as perfect as possible before doing this. I’m planning on getting a PC 7424 XP. I’m going to use the M105/M205 combo. Can I use Optimum Finish after M205, and then use opticoat 2.0 straight after?
M205 has lots of oils in it that could potentially have an effect on the coating’s ability to bond to the surface. While Optimum Finish may remove most or all of those oils, I would honestly play it safe and at least wash the car and even better would be to follow that up by going over the paint with some CarPro Eraser, which has actually become my go to product for pre-coating wipe-downs. 😉
Depending on the paint you may also not even need Optimum Finish, as M205 may finish down very well. What make/model vehicle are you working on?
I have an Aqua Blue Metallic 2010 Chevy Camaro. It’s my first car that I’ve owned so I have all the scratches, marring, and other problems from improper washing when I first started washing my car in ignorance :facepalm:
What happens if there was improper or poor preparation prior to applying OptiCoat 2.0? Such as applying the coating if there were still beading characteristics on the paint or if no Carpro Eraser was used after polishing?
Would we be talking about loss of longevity but still over a year, or complete failure within a month? Other than a waste of money if applied wrong what are the signs that you have in fact applied it wrong or didn’t have proper prep before applying? I read that as long as the product flashes clear on whatever surface, then you are fine, regardless of prep and that includes layering version 2.0 on itself(you can layer OC2.0 on itself if it flashes clear). I think I may not have done the prep to a good enough level but when I applied the OC 2.0 it went on clear and not hazy. The coating is perfect no high spots and I tested coverage (car is acrylic white, no metal flake) with a misting mode on the hose, however I remember having slight beading all over the car prior to drying. Did I just waste my OC2.0?
Thanks in advance!
To be honest, I really don’t know…I have always prepped the paint properly and haven’t done any testing to see what would happen if the oils weren’t removed. My guess would be much like you said, in that it would fail shortly after. If when you rinse the car after washing it is not beading/sheeting really well equally over the entire finish, I would say that’s exactly what happened. Other then beading I don’t think you would be able to tell if it is there or not. A good test would be to mist some IPA on the paint (make sure it’s clean) and see it the IPA beads on the surface. If it does, your coating is still there and doing it’s job. If the coating has failed due to prep, you will need to re-polish the whole car, prep it properly, and then re-coat.
If you have any other question feel free to email me directly.
Thanks for the advice.
Thanks for the great article on Opti-Coat 2.0, it sounds like it’s exactly what I’m looking for. I’m expecting my 2013 BMW 335xi sedan to arrive by late August and would like to have OC2.0 applied right away. Do you know of any very good detailers in the Washington, DC/Northern Virginia/Maryland area who could do it for me, after thorough prep of course. (I’ve already contacted a couple of supposedly high-rated places and basically got “never heard of it, we use our own products,can’t help you so check Google”! )
Thanks for anything you might come up with.
Are very own DJ Mayo should be able to help you out. 😉
Thanks for the write up! Very informative! I had some experiences with using a PC and polishing my 05 Nighthawk Black Pearl Acura RL, and I would love to add a layer of Opti-coat on it. However, I have a few questions:
1) Should I be worried about the dust particles that get on the paint when I’m just about to apply opti-coat? I mean, it’s impossible to be free of dust in the air unless I’m working in some kind of vacuum room. I guess the black paint makes it a lot more noticeable.
2) Should I put a layer of Opti-coat on the hood before I get a clear bra put on, or should I apply the opti-coat to the clear bra after I have the clear bra installed? It would be awesome if opti-coat protects against rock chips, I’m assuming that it can’t?
3) Say I were to get a scratch on the door after I applied the opti-coat, can I just polish that area off and reapply, or would I have to polish the whole door panel and then apply a layer of opti-coat so that there are no noticable discrepancies/layers?
1) Obviously you will not want to apply the coating outside on a windy day, but you should have no issues with dust while applying it in your garage. Wipe the car down with IPA or CarPro Eraser and then go right to coating.
2) The coating can be applied before or after the clear bra installation, or both if you wish. It will not protect against rock chips.
3) If you get a scratch on a panel after the coating is fully cured you will have to polish the whole panel. If it’s within ~30 days of coating you can probably spot hit it, but I’d still suggest polishing the whole panel just to be safe.
Hope this helps,
I had the same problem and this what I didI got two diferefnt paints in the same value with about 3-4 shades lighter of each other and some glaze and started sponging over the real dark color and it turned out better then I ever dreamed
I have the exact question (and incoming car!) that Louis Murphy has. So if you have any recommendations for NoVa, would appreciate it.
So any good recommendations in Northern Virginia (NOVA)?
My question is how does this hold up 5, 10, 15 years down the road. I just bought a new car last week and want to apply it but I am worried after the years role by it will peel off?!?!?!?
The coating thickness averages 1-3 microns, that’s .00004-.0001 of an inch! Even if it did peel off (which it wont) I don’t think you’d even be able to see it. I’m also confident you car will need some amount of polishing long before you ever reach the 5 year mark.
You should also know that Opt-Coat was developed by the former lead coating and polymer chemist at PPG, Dr. David Ghodoussi. If anyone is going to know about proper bonding to your cars clear coat it’s Dr. G! 😉
Nice article, and it convinced me I want Opti-Coat. Can you recommend quality detailers in the Orlando area?
What is the recommeded cure time for OC 2.0 before I can apply my 3M paint protection film over it?
I’m waiting to hear back from Optimum on this one and should have it for you soon.
Alfred, I’m told 1 week. 😉
Nice review. The video and example pictures were also very helpful.
In one of your replies on 25-Jul-2012, you mentioned that Opti-Coat 2.0 would not protect against rock chips. I’m not sure if I understood that correctly, or if you were referring to the clear bra. Once Opti-Coat 2.0 is fully cured (over a month), if it is as hard as claimed, it seems it would offer some protection against rock chips. If so, that seems like a good reason to put 2-3 layers of Opti-Coat on the front of the car.
1. Would 2-3 layers of Opti-Coat on the front of the car offer any protection from rocks/debris (since it would be thicker)?
I know that Opti-Guard cures much faster than Opti-Coat, which I suppose means Opti-Guard cannot be layered the way Opti-Coat can.
2. Can Opti-Guard be layered?
3. Does Opti-Guard go on thicker than Opti-Coat 2.0?
4. Does Opti-Guard offer better protection than Opti-Coat 2.0, or last longer than Opti-Coat 2.0?
5. Can you recommend a quality detailer in the Orlando area? (In a reply you made on 17-Jan-2012 it appears you know a few in the Orlando area)
Thanks again Chad for the great write up of what appears to be a great new product.
1. Opti-Coat will NOT offer protection from rock chips regardless of how many layers you have. If your concern is for protection against rock/stone chips I would look into getting the Xpel Ultimate “self healing” clear film applied.
2. Yes, but it has to be done sooner than the OC 2.0 since it cures faster. I personally do not layer it as I see no benefit.
3. Yes, as it is more concentrated (less solvents).
4. The protection should be the same, but I could see Opti-Guard holding up longer to abrasion, like automatic car washes where brushes or cloth mops are used, since it should be thicker. It’s my understanding that they are the same product though, OC 2 just has more solvents to make it cure slower. (Note: I have not personally tested the two side by side, but I have washed clients cars after 12+ months of OC 2 being applied and they are still going strong! )
5. Garry Dean should be able to take care of you. 😉
>> 1. Opti-Coat will NOT offer protection from rock chips regardless of how many layers you have. If your concern is for protection against rock/stone chips I would look into getting the Xpel Ultimate “self healing” clear film applied.
This is exactly the combination I am looking for. I have seen in the past comments that you mentioned that you can apply Opti-Coat before or after on a clear bra. With looking at the the Xpel film and the “self healing” properties, what is your recommendation on when to apply the Opti-Coat? Does Opti-Coat change on how the Xpel film heals?
What is the cure time of O.C. 2.0 before I can use spray wax or other sealants like Klasse?
I’d have to ask Optimum for a definite answer but I’d say anytime after 24hrs should be fine.
Hi Chad, thank you for sharing so much knowledge. Do you know any good detailer in Iowa for Opticoat?
I have a scion FRS, red color, few weeks old. If I was to do the opticoating myself, what products would you recommend for a beginner to use to prep this car? I know you don’t advise beginners to do this but I cannot find a detailer.
I reached out to a detailed friend in your area and hope to hear something back soon. I’ll keep you posted.
Geo – I am a detailer in the DSM area with experience with OC/OG.
I am getting through a neck injury right now that has been slowing me down, but I would be interested in chatting with you on your FRS. I have another red FRS scheduled, and being a Subaru fan, I have been following the FRS/BRZ closely. Very cool car!
I’ve got a couple of jet ski’s that seem to accumulate hard water spots no matter what I do to try to prevent them. I’ve searched through DI’s website for anything pertaining to fiberglass/boat/gel coat protection. Greg Nichols did an outstanding write up of descaling a boat, but apparently he’s about the only one who’s braved the “seven seas” of boat detailing and written about it for us “laymen”.
Do you think there would be any forseeable problems of using the Opti-Coat on jet ski’s or even using it over the gel coat of a boat?
Thanks for your time and great write up!!
You can definitely use OC on the Gel-Coat without issue, but unfortunately I think that splashing around in hard water under the hot summer sun is going to continue to accumulate hard water spots. The OC will likely help keep them from etching deep into the finish, but I’m confident you will still see some amount of spotting. On the plus side, you should be able to remove the spots fairly easily with some Chemical Guys Water Spot Remover once the coating has been applied, and unlike traditional waxes and sealants, OC will not be effected by the water spot remover. 😉
What are your thoughts comparing OC to 22PLE? Is it fair to say 22PLE shines better but OC protects longer? I saw that you are now an authorized dealer for 22PLE which is why I’m asking.
Yes, I did become an authorized installer of 22ple but I have not had enough seat time it to comment on it yet. Others have said the gloss is amazing but just like waxes and sealants, 95% of the look is in the prep. In my opinion Opti-Coat can look very good too and you really have to decide what looks best to you. Here is an example of a recent car I coated with Opti-Guard.
FYI, I actually coated a couple test panels last night with CQuartz Finest, Opti-Guard, and 22ple. I plan to do some extensive testing on them over the next year or so. That way I can better highlight the benefits of each to my clients and accurately suggest which coating best fits there needs.
They should all do an excellent job though. 😉
That 750 looks amazing. Did you stop after the OG, or did you finish with PP or some other LSP?
If you did top the OG, what is the durability expectation?
I thought almost nothing would “stick” to the OG for more than a week or two, so I was planning to only use Optimum Instant Detailer & Gloss Enhancer or similar (on a car coated with OG or OC) as part of a regular maintenance wash to improve slickness and shine.
If you did not top the OG, that looks better than I expected.
In that pic of the 750 it was just OG.
I have topped the OG on my car with some PP and it easily lasted a few weeks. I picked up some Reload too but I think I like PP better for it’s ease of use and slickness. I will use PP like a detail spray every few washes on my car just to have that slick feel….though it does seem to attract more dust in doing so.
OID is a good option too but I like PP more….just wish it wasn’t so $$$. 🙁
Hi Chad, thanks for the amazing video it made me buy the opti coat…I applied opti coat on my car and I got that ultra fast sheeting like you shown in your video however on my next wash my car doesnt sheet as fast again, Should the sheeting persist after hundreds of washes or it simply diminishes after the first wash ? I accidentally left some highspots and they persisted so I assume that the coating persists but not the hydrophobic properties ? What are your experiences ? Thanks again.
Sorry for the delayed reply…been pretty bust lately. 🙁
The sheeting should continue for a very long time with regular washing, but there are factors that can effect it’s ability to bead/sheet away water (not to say the product isn’t still there. Basically the longer dirt is allowed to sit on the paint the better chance it has to bond to it. If you normally go 3-4 weeks without washing, especially in the harsh winter months where there is salt and sand, beading may be diminished if things have started bonding with the paint…sounds like you may have another issue though.
To be honest I really only use the pro version of the product at my shop and I’ve only coated 2 vehicle with Opti-Coat 2.0. One of those vehicle (M3) I touched up a little over a year later and it was still holding up pretty well. Some reduction of beading could be seen on the lower panels behind the wheels. However, I have seen other posts where users have observed the coating fall off over a relatively short period of time and I honestly don’t know why. It could be something as simple as improper prep/application or it could be something more…
My suggestion would be to test something out on one panel to help narrow it down. Give the hood or some other panel a quick polish and try re-coating that panel (assuming you still have product left). This time be more thorough in the prep, maybe do two IPA wipe downs. Then when you go to apply the coating rub it around a little more and give it a little more time to flash off. In my video it was a 100+ degree day and things were flashing faster for me than it probably does for most users. When about 80% of the panel has flashed off it should be ready to hit any high spots with a MF towel (little to no pressure). Then wait about an hour and give it a second coat. Opti-Coat 2.0 is less concentrated then the pro version and by doing the second coat you should have a thicker film build and have more even coverage with less risk of missed areas. My thinking is that people aren’t prepping properly or they are leveling it off too soon and not leaving enough coating behind for proper protection. They second coat should help solve this. Try this method out and contact me if you don’t see any change. 😉
my car is getting an opti-coat 2.0 treatment. i have a 2013 Lexus GS350 F Sport/Obsidian. the paint is obscenely soft, i’ve tried Hard Body, 22PLE. they were not in any manner… scratch resistant. i use the 2 bucket method with grit guards (my foam gun of course) uber wash mitts and pat dried using uber drying towels. i notice alot of wash marks and swirls with these coatings applied. will OC 2.0 be a much harder coating, that will minimize the wash marks and swirls during washing? is the soft paint a reason for the coating not being effective?
I’ve done some of my own testing with a few coatings (Opti-Coat Pro, CQuartz Finest, and 22ple) and I’ve found them all to be about the same as far marr resistance goes…unfortunately I do not think OC 2.0 will fair any better to be honest. While I feel all the coatings do help, they are still very capable of marring. Sounds like you just have one of those super delicate paints. 🙁
It appears you’re already doing everything right and short of watching you actually wash and dry your car, I’m not sure what more I can add to your process to help. Maybe DI rinsing and blowing it dry with a Master Blaster, but that’s an expensive addition.
thanx Chad… i do use the open end hose rinse, i’ve watched your vid. and with the little bit of water left on the car i pat dry. i’m going to invest in a master blaster for the crevices. don’t know what else i can do except get another color. thanx again .
When I originally commented I clicked the “Notify me when new comments are added” checkbox and now each time
a comment is added I get three e-mails with the same comment.
Is there any way you can remove me from that service?
my web-site http://www.ultimateshine.com.sg/
Just wanted to say thanks to Rasky for the superb info posted here. This gave me the confidence to give Opt i-coat2 a crack on my brand new BMW 320i. As a non professional detailing enthusiast i was keen but slightly apprehensive. But all want really smooth. Mine was a metallic white (mineral white) and seeing an high spots was not easy. But I made sure I had adequate lighting (bought some intensity work-lights just for the job) and religiously light dusted each panel soon after application as shown by Rasky. My routine was to finish the second panel application and go back to the first for a light MF wipe down and so on throughout the entire car. This seemed to work a treat. I also adopted a tip i picked through one of the forums to transfer the opticoat into an eye dropper bottle. This was a great way to get some nice controlled drops onto the pad. Didnt actually try using the syringe, so I cant compare. The idea of using the dropper just seemed to make sense to me and it was easy to transfer the remaining product back to the syringe. Also, so as to not compromise any completed panels by touching or accidental re-coating and also to ensure i went around the car in the most logical/easiest way, i printed out some pictures of each side of my car and broke each panel down into a number sequence. Stuck these 4 pics on the wall and proceeded to highlight each area as i completed a panel. This way i made sure i covered the whole car and didnt revisit completed panels. Also by using each panel as the defining work area, it things clear for me as to where i must finish and not overlap into the next area (no overlaps or missed areas). Haven’t done the glass yet. But im going to now i know i can do it without ballsing it up. The first panel (roof) was probably the hardest one as you’re learning the technique and the pad is not yet moist enough. You’re also paranoid about applying too much. Anyway thanks again to Rasky and all that contributed.
Thanks for the feedback, Garry. You may also want to look at the new Opti-Glass for doing the glass on your car. I’ve used the pro version a few times now and like it a lot. 🙂
Just purchased a set of OptiCoat 2.0 and about to apply to my new car. Current condition of the paint work would be about 98/99%. There are some very,very slight micro swills (hardly visible unless you look extremely hard for it). Do I need to buff these off or will OptiCoat 2.0 be able to ‘cover it up’ after application? Really hope that Opticoat 2.0 can do the job without need for the buffing…Appreciate your advice
Opti-Coat will not do any kind of filling like some waxes or sealants can do, so if you see swirls now, you will see them after coating too. If they are light and you can live with them then you can go right to coating, but I would suggest removing them first. 😉
I have been absent for some time, but now I remember why I used to love this blog. Thanks, I’ll try and check back more frequently. How frequently you update your website?
Hello Chad – thanks for all you do here by sharing valuable info with everyone…. Opti-Coat is supposedly a life-time paint protector but we all know that nothing lasts forever… and i was wandering how often should Opti-Coat be re-applied… every 2-3 years… or perhaps every 5 years?… what do you think?
As long as the car is well cared for the coating should last for a very long time. You will need to do annual or bi-annual decons to remove road tar and other bonded contaminates, which can effect beading. I’ve had several clients come back now after 18-24 months for a polish and recoat. On all of the cars the coating is still very clearly present and doing its job, but the owners have not kept up with the care as well as they should have and the vehicles come back lightly/moderately swirled and filled with tar and other contaminants. My owner personal car is still marr free and looking like new after 13 months. I just spent an evening last week removing the tar and tree sap from my car with Tarminator and some rust blooms with IronX. I also had some hard water spots from my neighbor spraying my car while rinsing off his side walk…those came off with ease using Chemical Guys Water Spot Remover. The nice thing about Opti-Coat is that none of these chemicals effect the coating in any way. After doing the above my paint is free of bonded contaminants and I didn’t even need to clay the paint.
Here is a quick video I shot a couple weeks ago of an A5 that came back in for a polish and recoat after 22 months. The owner has done nothing but use touch-less washer or an occasional hand wash. This was shot before I did any decon on the car and there was tons of fine tar down the sides and back. (Sound didn’t come through for some reason)
So to answer your question after all of that, it really depends on you! 🙂 My clients seem to be coming back in around the 2 year mark, but it’s not because the coating is gone and not doing it’s job. If you are diligent about washing the car properly and regularly, you should be able to go for much longer than 2 years. Keep in mind I’m using the Opti-Coat Pro, not the 2.0, so I would do two coats with the Opti-Coat 2.0 just to get a thicker and more uniform coverage.
Who is the person to go to for Opti-Coat in central florida…… orlando area? Thank you in advanced!!!
Here are all the currently listed Pro Installers in Florida.
Thank you for all the great information here. I had a question that I don’t believe was answered here or on the Opti Coat site.
I am about to use OC 2.0, and from my understanding there is enough product to do 2 cars. I am only going to use it on one car. Is there a correct method to save the remaining product to use at a later time? And, how long can I expect it to be preserved? Please let me know when you have a moment. I apologize if this has been answered already and ask that you please direct me to the appropriate response date or link.
I have had a syringe of the 2.0 gel up on me after about 18 months. I was told you want to make sure the cap is tight and that there is no air in the syringe, which is why mine gelled up. 😉
If you do that it should last a long time.
Dave should be near you. 😉
Thank you so much for letting me know Chad!
I appreciate it. Have a great weekend.
Thanks for your time in doing this review .
Looking for a detailer in Las Vegas Nevada
that has experience with opti-coat .Any help would be appreciated.
I’m purchasing a new car and wanted to apply Opti-Coating. Should I put Opti-Coat on places where I’m going to put Paint Protection Film? I’m thinking this would be a good ideal but wasn’t sure. Also is this something I could apply in the winter in my unheated garage? Could you send me your quote to Opti-Coat my car (subcompact sedan) since I’m local to Minneapolis I may want to utilize your service.
I’d like to find out more? I’d care to find out some
Can this product be applied to gelcoat ? If so is the prep the same as the car prep ?
Thanks for the article and video. At first I was him in and hawin about applying Opti 2.0 myself.
I watched your video a few times and now I’m ready.
The wife’s car is ready and I plan on applying tomorrow. Spent a day correcting the paint.
Thanks for the information!
Thanks for the great Blog and advice, Chad. If you get high spots using OptiCoat 2, as pictured above, how long do you need to let the coating cure before you can try polishing them out.
You can level the high spots with a polish by hand after the coating no longer feels tacky. I would personally wait until the next day though. Machine polishing may compromise the coating so I would reapply it in those areas if you use a polisher.
Question about cleaning applicator or micro-fiber towel.
Is there any type of cleaner that can be purchased from a local auto or retail store that will work on cleaning these products? I purchased some of the Opti-coat 2.0 to apply to my car this weekend (two days from now). However, I never gave it any thought to purchase some type of solvent to clean the applicator in between uses. I did notice that you had recommended two products earlier, but, that was after I had already purchased the Opti-coat.
Thanks for your help.
Any All Purpose Cleaner should work, just be sure to place them in a bucket with water and APC right away. Something like Simple Green or Purple Power should be available locally at stores like Home Depot.
I should note that I don’t personally reuse the applicators. You can save them for other not paint related tasks, like applying tire dressings, but they are so cheap that I feel you’re better of buying new ones rather than risk potentially marring the paint from a dirty applicator. The towels I will reuse, but I dedicate them for interior cleaning after using them to level off coatings. (I’m pretty OCD though) 🙂
Hope this helps,
Now that Optimum has dropped the “bomb” and discontinued 2.0, will you try the new Opti Glass?
As of today I’ve officially dropped Opti-Coat Pro from my line up. CQuartz Finest is now my only listed offering, I will continue to test others as they come to market, ensuring my clients get what I believe is best for their vehicle, but I have no intention of trying the new Optimum offering as this move has not sat well with me. Those who have tried it speak highly of it, so don’t let my personal feelings keep you from trying it.
I had got Opticoat Pro done on my car in Nov 2014 in India.My car met with an accident in April 2015 due to which I had to get 2 panels painted.When I got the car after the paint job,their were some minor scratches on other panels which happened due to the service center’s inefficiency.They removed it using 3M stuff and gave the car to me.So I would like to know if my Opticoat has got damaged due to the 3M polishing.
I would say that if they did any amount of polishing to those panels that it either removed the coating or at least compromised it. I would suggest having the coating reapplied to those panels as well.
thanks for the reply
the final verdict on it is going to be quite stable in the next weeks. Honduras is the logical state for freestaking.com to become traded
I had my car detailed with opti coat pro from an authorized detailer. So far it has been very good. However, when I went for a car wash in the gas station last week..they gave me the brush treatment instead of the touchless car wash I had requested. Now my car is full of minor scratches/swirl. What is the best way to tackle this without compromising my opti coat? Looking forward to your response. I have a Porter cable and some LC finishing pads..not sure which compound to use.
Jackie – Unfortunately if the car was brought through a touch car wash the damage may have already been done. Either the swirls are in the coating, or they made it through the coating and into the paint. Sometime like the CarPro Essence Plus is great because it will remove imperfections in a coating, while leaving behind some protection. If this product can not remove the swirls, then unfortunately they most likely have gone through the coating and into the paint. In this case, you will want to remove the coating, polish out the imperfections, and reapply a wax, sealant, or coating for protection after.
I personally would call up the place that detailed the car and ask them if they could take a look. They can let you know if the swirls are in the paint, or if you can get away using something like the Essence Plus. Hopefully that helps and good luck!
I would agree with Reece on this one. Essence Plus was specifically designed for instances like this. It contains no abrasives and utilizes “a distinct blend of ceramic coat repair agents, high gloss quartz resins, and hydrophobic nanoparticles” to fill in light wash induced marring while leaving the coating intact. It is important to follow the directions with this stuff though. While the product itself may not contain abrasives, if an aggressive pad were to be used it will still abrade away at the coating. Per CarPro, it should only be used with their Gloss Pad.
would a LC white pad be equivalent to their gloss pad? Thank you very much for your advices. I do hope the touch car wash didnt make it through the coating. Hoping the car wash company will pony up for their technical mistake but I feel like it wont happen..
The LC white is a polishing pad and would be more aggressive then the CarPro Gloss pad. For an LC pad the closest thing would probably be the black or blue finishing pads.
Is opti-coat 2.0 still available ????
We love Opti-Coat at our shop! It really is worth the expense of hiring a professional. Especially when you can space out your detailings because your vehicle looks better longer. I realize this is an older post, but love seeing this great break down!
Great post! Thanks for sharing.